Big 3 question?

Ah, sorry about the multiple post (no pun intended). I assume you cannot tighten it either? Why is the main terminal mount bolt an issue, unless you want to tighten it and you can't? If that is a problem, cut it off with a Dremel tool or a hacksaw and get a new T-spec distribution block, like this one for about $25!

Amazon product ASIN B088ZR67KP


Problem solved!!!
 
Exactly cut the nut off or just under the nut with a dremel and cutting disc. Takes about 2-5 minutes and either replace the bolt or buy a new connector like the one above. Done that for 30 years and it works. Bolts are cheap and not too mention there is a reason why they sell replacement battery bolts.
 
Exactly cut the nut off or just under the nut with a dremel and cutting disc. Takes about 2-5 minutes and either replace the bolt or buy a new connector like the one above. Done that for 30 years and it works. Bolts are cheap and not too mention there is a reason why they sell replacement battery bolts.
It tightens and loosens just fine. The nut simply doesn’t come off the bolt. It’s pressed on from the factory so it doesn’t get lost. I’m thinking about just running a bolt through the hole to the left of it and running a new ground from there. It’s a one piece brass clamp so it’s still ground. Ground is ground no matter what part of the clamp I secure another ground wire to.
 
So what? You can replace the bolt with any bolt and nut. If you are that worried about it buy a nut with a nylon insert. That bolt is nothing special. That way you don't have to go and drill anything or possibly go into the battery if you do. I got rid of the stock oem battery connectors in 2 seconds. Cut the wires and put new connectors on them and used an aftermarket setup close to the one from above. That way I can hook up as many grounds or positive runs as I want. Getting rid of oem connectors like that don't change how the oem wires act. But going with something above gives you a ton of options instead of being stuck with just one bolt or connection.
 
So what? You can replace the bolt with any bolt and nut. If you are that worried about it buy a nut with a nylon insert. That bolt is nothing special. That way you don't have to go and drill anything or possibly go into the battery if you do. I got rid of the stock oem battery connectors in 2 seconds. Cut the wires and put new connectors on them and used an aftermarket setup close to the one from above. That way I can hook up as many grounds or positive runs as I want. Getting rid of oem connectors like that don't change how the oem wires act. But going with something above gives you a ton of options instead of being stuck with just one bolt or connection.
I’m not worried about the bolt. What about the molex type plug that’s the wire to the left of the battery post? There are two 16 gauge wires attached to that plug, which is some sort of battery sensor on the negative side. How would I attach that to a new clamp?
 
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I’m not worried about the bolt. What about the molex type plug that’s the wire to the left of the battery post? There are two 16 gauge wires attached to that plug, which is some sort of battery sensor on the negative side. How would I attach that to a new clamp?
You would only need to replace that bolt
 
It tightens and loosens just fine. The nut simply doesn’t come off the bolt. It’s pressed on from the factory so it doesn’t get lost. I’m thinking about just running a bolt through the hole to the left of it and running a new ground from there. It’s a one piece brass clamp so it’s still ground. Ground is ground no matter what part of the clamp I secure another ground wire to.
Seems like lot of work when you could cut the bolt off (a lot easier than trying to go through, it, trust me). The nice thing about the t-spec distro is that it comes with the add-on post so you can use the existing connections too. Just bolt them on, use the additinal holes for whatever additnal grounds you need. That or just use that existing hole I see there, buy something like this off amazon:
Amazon product ASIN B09TPHPPG6Buy a new bolt that corresponds to the tap you do, tap that hole (that's what she said) and be done! Me thinks you are way over thinking this.
 
Seems like lot of work when you could cut the bolt off (a lot easier than trying to go through, it, trust me). The nice thing about the t-spec distro is that it comes with the add-on post so you can use the existing connections too. Just bolt them on, use the additinal holes for whatever additnal grounds you need. That or just use that existing hole I see there, buy something like this off amazon:
Amazon product ASIN B09TPHPPG6Buy a new bolt that corresponds to the tap you do, tap that hole (that's what she said) and be done! Me thinks you are way over thinking this.
With the t-spec distro, you don't have to change any of the original terminations. Just loosen the bolt on the factory unit shown, pull off the entire assembly, clamp the t-spec on, tighten it's allen bolt clamp, screw on the extra post that it comes with (it comes with the mounting screws too), in whichever hole works for you(that's what she said) Once that is re-connected, you can run any new grounding like multiple 4awg or multiple 1/0 gauge upgrade cables in the remaing receptacles using a standard allen wrench. The T-spec has an allen bolt in each of the receptacles you see i that picture.
 
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Agreed he is waaaay over thinking this. Cut the bolt and replace it with a longer bolt and a nut with a nylon insert. Less then a buck or two at any ace hardware or menards. With the longer bolt he can connect as many as he wants to it. Head of the bolt on the bottom like it is and the nylon nut on top. Cutting a bolt or nut off isn't hard. I just did that on my Explorer on a bolt I had to replace. Even with it being grade 8 bolts it took me 5 minutes and 2 dremel cutting discs. Just take your time and stop every few seconds so you don't screw up.
 
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