Checked gain with an O-scope, sub is still smelling


Coolhand20th

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lol 30 bucks in 1/0 and connectors. That will be a lot more then that especially OFC which you would want to do, 1/0 connectors can cost up to 10 bucks for a 5-10 pack then the wire is another 40-50 bucks minimum in ofc because if you are going to wire it as a 1/0 big 3 then you are crazy not to run 1/0 as well back to the amplifier to get the most out of it. Also read my whole post also the GCon can handle quite a bit as well especially with the upgrades, SSA will confirm that as I emailed them myself this afternoon asking those exact questions! And don't tell me what to do either.

A dual 4 ohm sub can be wired to 8 or 2 ohms.

A dual 2 ohm sub can be wired to 4 or 1 ohm(s).
Exactly Buck!
 

Buck

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lol 30 bucks in 1/0 and connectors. That will be a lot more then that especially OFC which you would want to do, 1/0 connectors can cost up to 10 bucks for a 5-10 pack then the wire is another 40-50 bucks minimum in ofc because if you are going to wire it as a 1/0 big 3 then you are crazy not to run 1/0 as well back to the amplifier to get the most out of it. Also read my whole post also the GCon can handle quite a bit as well especially with the upgrades, SSA will confirm that as I emailed them myself this afternoon asking those exact questions! And don't tell me what to do either.



Exactly Buck!
You should’ve seen the price on my 4/0 connectors 😭
 
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devin171moto

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lol 30 bucks in 1/0 and connectors. That will be a lot more then that especially OFC which you would want to do, 1/0 connectors can cost up to 10 bucks for a 5-10 pack then the wire is another 40-50 bucks minimum in ofc because if you are going to wire it as a 1/0 big 3 then you are crazy not to run 1/0 as well back to the amplifier to get the most out of it. Also read my whole post also the GCon can handle quite a bit as well especially with the upgrades, SSA will confirm that as I emailed them myself this afternoon asking those exact questions! And don't tell me what to do either.



Exactly Buck!
I mean I go to junk yards and such cuz im a super OCD bargain guy. but even if he isn't you can get way with cca on 1200 watts in my experience i"ve never seen any huge voltage drops under 1500w on cca. only problem is you will have to swap for ofc if you go too far over 2000w. I only said that cuz he is on a budget and i dont want to pressure him into spending loads of money like the car audio community often pressures people into. i want him to get his moneys worth and get more into this hobby. cca in the engine bay at this rms is fine
 

devin171moto

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i work in genereal electrical for a living I know what wires can handle and I know electricity. marketing fluff and cult rumor is irrelevant
 
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Buck

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I personally don’t think there’s a huge amount of difference between ofc and cca. I mean if you’re running on the limits of the wiring, then maybe, but if you’re running several runs, I’m not so sure it makes a big difference. It seems like you could make more runs of cca for the price of ofc, in some cases. It’s been a while since I’ve ordered 50 foot roles of 0 gauge though.
 
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Buck

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big boy stuff. I'm not there yet
I had it on my 300 amp alt, oversized it just because it was under the hood, and that cable didn’t flex or sag at all. Stayed right where I wanted it to.
 
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devin171moto

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I personally don’t think there’s a huge amount of difference between ofc and cca. I mean if you’re running on the limits of the wiring, then maybe, but if you’re running several runs, I’m not so sure it makes a big difference. It seems like you could make more runs of cca for the price of ofc, in some cases. It’s been a while since I’ve ordered 50 foot roles of 0 gauge though.
my point exactly. ofc is so expensive. and only really necessary in high end builds. even if he decides to upgrade. he can just make another run into a distribution block. respect the rating on the electrical and you will be fine. those ratings are wayyyyyyyy conservative believe me.
 
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hispls

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I personally don’t think there’s a huge amount of difference between ofc and cca.
I have had problems with it myself and won't even use it in small builds personally. If you're going to DIY you can always take the power cables out when you move on and good quality copper cable will last for decades. Cabling is likely to outlast every other component you're putting in your car so IMO there's no reason to cheap out on that.
 

Buck

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I have had problems with it myself and won't even use it in small builds personally. If you're going to DIY you can always take the power cables out when you move on and good quality copper cable will last for decades. Cabling is likely to outlast every other component you're putting in your car so IMO there's no reason to cheap out on that.
What issues have you had? I'd genuinely like to hear to cram info into my mind-database
 

devin171moto

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I had it on my 300 amp alt, oversized it just because it was under the hood, and that cable didn’t flex or sag at all. Stayed right where I wanted it to.
What issues have you had? I'd genuinely like to hear to cram info into my mind-database
Theoretically the only things you would really need to watch for is heat, and spikes in resistance, which is connected to heat.

If you are stressing cca to its limit you may see problems with voltage drop and cause the amp to get stressed.

You may also be a TINY bit less efficient in normal operation but nothing that really justifies the price imo.

If you just dont want to make 4 runs of cca for a cleaner look and less wiring go for it. Or if you are running a 370 amp alt you will need it Those runs are barely 3 ft long in the engine bay. They can take alot of power.
 

Buck

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Theoretically the only things you would really need to watch for is heat, and spikes in resistance, which is connected to heat.

If you are stressing cca to its limit you may see problems with voltage drop and cause the amp to get stressed.

You may also be a TINY bit less efficient in normal operation but nothing that really justifies the price imo.

If you just dont want to make 4 runs of cca for a cleaner look and less wiring go for it. Or if you are running a 370 amp alt you will need it Those runs are barely 3 ft long in the engine bay. They can take alot of power.
Only real men run 4/0 on their alts :cool::LOL:
 

hispls

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What issues have you had? I'd genuinely like to hear to cram info into my mind-database
Failure at connection points and even wire breaking inside the insulation. Aluminum just isn't as malleable as copper so if it's subject to moving it will fail after far fewer bends/flexes and I've seen some awful stuff happening where it goes into distro blocks. Could just be anecdotal and other factors that caused the failures but again, your cable should out-last every other piece of equipment you're buying so why cheap out?

If you absolutely must use it, be sure that every part of your run is very secure and won't move around anywhere and keep an eye on terminals, distro blocks, and fuse holders.
 
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Buck

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Failure at connection points and even wire breaking inside the insulation. Aluminum just isn't as malleable as copper so if it's subject to moving it will fail after far fewer bends/flexes and I've seen some awful stuff happening where it goes into distro blocks. Could just be anecdotal and other factors that caused the failures but again, your cable should out-last every other piece of equipment you're buying so why cheap out?

If you absolutely must use it, be sure that every part of your run is very secure and won't move around anywhere and keep an eye on terminals, distro blocks, and fuse holders.
Thanks for the info. Never personally seen that, that's why I asked. I'll keep that in mind for sure.
 

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