Building this shizz

96civ
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Alright I'm starting the build on the Magna *** Laude! Pretty excited about how it's gonna turn out. I'm going to post pictures tomorrow of the build thus far. One question though, would there be a huge benefit in flush mounting the speakers. If so, what's the best way in doing so with a stationary router.

 
For that project, no, flush mounting won't make much different. What flush mounting helps with is known as baffle diffraction which occurs when something radiating sound is on a different level than what it is radiating from. If you have a uniform surface, you get less breakup. That doesn't really matter for those speakers though, as they just get loud. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Sorry I haven't gotten pics posted as promised, I swear I will, but these 12 hour days at CVS **** (being in the pharmacy may seem easy, but it ***** to have people b*tching at you all day, every day). I just widdled a DIY jasper jig for my dad's router made out of plexi. Did I mention it'll do up to a 40" circle? Excessive, I know... but you never know when you'll need it! I have most of the box done for now I just have to cut out the circles, then start bracing, and wiring.

Before I start wiring and eff something up, tengo una pregunta. Why does the designer have, in the parts list, a "Supreme gold speaker terminal" and dual-ended binding post pairs? That may seem like a newb question, but I am a newb so that at least makes sense.

 
I'm kind of a noob to home audio but after days of research I've concluded that tweeters benefit the most from flush mounting. That's why most tower speakers like the ones from AV123 and other various companies, they flush mount tweeters and have the woofer flange sort of overlap the outer mount of the tweeter. And I believe I read Zaph saying that tweeters "need" to be flush mounted.

 
I'm kind of a noob to home audio but after days of research I've concluded that tweeters benefit the most from flush mounting. That's why most tower speakers like the ones from AV123 and other various companies, they flush mount tweeters and have the woofer flange sort of overlap the outer mount of the tweeter. And I believe I read Zaph saying that tweeters "need" to be flush mounted.
You are correct. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
 
Yeah, I want to flush mount them, but it's difficult to do so with the router I have. Maybe if I could get a piece of 1/8" thick wood I could place that around the mounted tweeter, which would ultimately do the same thing wouldn't it?

 
Finally got some good progress/pics on this build so far. Everything's been going smoothly, but I'm a little scared about the crossover... kind of wish I would've taken the time to learn how to trace boards and the such, but I hope it'll work: I'll explain further.

Anyway, after receiving the speakers I was really impressed on the quality of each of the speakers. The speakers look downright sexy.
PICT0028.jpg


After initiating the build, it's understood that the box must have separate compartments for the 2 12" drivers and the TangBand 6.5", thus one has to build a box inside of a box as seen here. The compartment for the TB will be sealed once I place the front of the box on, etc.
PICT0030.jpg


For the front/face of the box, I used a router and a homemade circle jig made out of 1/4" plexi to route the holes needed to mount the 12" drivers. I then continued to use a jigsaw to cut the holes for the tweeter, TB, and ports. If you notice the white/pink color around the hole for one of the ports and the TB, you're probably wondering wth that is. For some reason I **** at using a jigsaw and cut holes too big. I then used bondo and poster board to reconstruct a circle that's big enough yet small enough.
PICT0029.jpg


Here's a sneak peak of what the project is going to look like at the bare minimum. I think I'm going to continue with much sanding and painting (probably black) once I get some odds and ends finished. I bought some 3/4" diameter dowel rods for bracing and glued them, so it should be a little more sturdy tomorrow.

PICT0034.jpg


Now on to the crossover. From what I can see, and assuming I don't eff anything up in the crossover, Mr. Kuzma, the designer, did a heck of a job on designing the crossover with the money/time invested. The frequency response, according to his data, is fairly flat. Should sound nice after all is done.
PICT0031.jpg


As you can see above, the x-over looks pretty organized and actually aesthetically pleasing. The board I used is just 3/4" birch ply, and I wish I knew how to trace boards and the such. That would make my job a hell of a lot easier because the following pictures looks UGLY. I wanted to keep the inductors as far away as possible to eliminate interactions between the magnetic fields of each inductor. Problem is, I used 14 gauge wire to hook up each lead to each component. I hope this route (i.e. using the wires to connect each lead) works, if you know it doesn't let me know; it will save some headaches later in the build, even though I'll be kicking and cussing if you say so //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif. I mean, it seems like I've soldered everything so that each connection is pretty strong. I used something like a distribution block to make it easy to wire the speakers, the input source, and the ground. Seems like it might all work out.
PICT0032.jpg


I was thinking about getting the Behringer A500 for the source, but now I'm leading more towards the QSC GX3. It seems like a more reliable product, but then again I've never had any experience with either. If you have had some experience, or know of a product that will work fine for this (300wRMS @ 8 ohms), let me know!

 
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