Alex's Silverado

Alternators output without a regulator is much higher usually 40-50v. In some cases The regulator is wired inline with a sensor. The CPU is montering voltage. One example of this system is when you crank your car you will see your voltage around 14.2 then after mybe 30 seconds you will see it drop to 13.8 or so.. It's a pwm controlled regulator which is built to prevent overcharging.

Now in your case Alex. I have no clue. Is it two wire or 3 wire? Did you contact stinger and ask if you can manually adjust the regulator( most two wire types ate mechanically adjustabke?). Chances are its the CPU limiting charging voltage as protection.. Ony way to fix it is a adjust the CPU parameters via programming or b bypass the autosesing circuit all together.. Which if don't wrong might be dangerious.
:| bunch of jibber jabber.

No alternator's regulator has a cpu nor does a vehicle have a cpu.

The auto sensing sensor is located either at the battery wire or near the pcm.

The sudden drop in voltage during startup does not drop due to over charging.

The regulator during cycle on reads the battery voltage + temp then calculates the max voltage producing a start up voltage.

This warms up the alternator then it uses the same equation to calculate the nominal voltage for steady operation.

Any oem ac delco or NG regulator maxes at 25v which then would cause the regulator its self to burn out.

45-50v would never be used as it would cause an electrical fire in any vehicle.

That is why when a regulator goes bad it will jump anywhere from 1v-20v

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The output before the regulator is much higher.

That's y they use regulators.. It's depends on how the alt is wound. Some are 20-30v but ive seen the as high as 48 on some units.. That's y they use regulators. As yes they use voltage sensors on the ground with a ct(current transformer) and the ct sends a signal to regulate the voltage..

 
It is built for overcharging. Warming the alternator has nothing to do with anything.

I've don't instutrial electrical on generators offshore and all over in plants. I've never head some **** like that.. Lol

If that's the case the electrical motors need to warm up and the battery banks in the hybrid cars need to warm up to? It sendens the batteries voltage to determine charge needed. And if you charge a battery all day at 14.4 it will shorten it'd life. Most batteries don't venifit evening charged above 2.2-2.3 volts per cell..

The sensor your talking about is a ct..

We use them in alot of things to sense excessive current in different things ground like vfds for protection as a shung down..

 
It is built for overcharging. Warming the alternator has nothing to do with anything.I've don't instutrial electrical on generators offshore and all over in plants. I've never head some **** like that.. Lol

If that's the case the electrical motors need to warm up and the battery banks in the hybrid cars need to warm up to? It sendens the batteries voltage to determine charge needed. And if you charge a battery all day at 14.4 it will shorten it'd life. Most batteries don't venifit evening charged above 2.2-2.3 volts per cell..

The sensor your talking about is a ct..

We use them in alot of things to sense excessive current in different things ground like vfds for protection as a shung down..
Your talking about diesel generators and/or dedicated transformer generators.

Vehicles use clutch or bearing alternators.

Hybrids use clutch since they have the ability to switch off from a fuel source.

Most others like GM use bearing that run off a belt, so the alternators constantly being ran.

The cycle on disperses any and all static electricity and begins the free flow of electricity.

Without it the coil would ultimately arc and cause it to un wound making the coil burn up.

Or else all vehicles will start at 12v and work up to 14v.

This is why you put a diode in place as it delays the current allowing the regulator to output more voltage to compensate the mis-reading.

Your the 2nd engineer to come in and try to make everything seem like this is top level science.

Alternators are the most basic generators in the world because they really do not generate anything from scratch.

The friction of the motor causes everything to be converted over to an electrical output.

While transformers create actual power.

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Caps are used as power storage in place a batteries and hold better then batteries on large draws.
So it would be of no use with the sense wire. Maybe the charging post..

But still 6 2.xV maxwell caps in series usually need to be charged at 16v.

Charging at 14v would be a waste.

You could have spent 500$ on a 4 pin alt and used a ext reg so you can just get another instead of wasteing 700$ on one.

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I figured out the problem. It was the regulator that was limiting things. It is a two wire alt. The way the stock regulator is set up, it is made to accept an AC a sine wave from the vcm. At 80% of the duty cycle, it charges between 14.7 and 15.0. at 60% it charges between 14.4 and 14.7. At 40% it charges between 14.1 and 14.4. Ect.

The regulator wasn't bad, it was just meant to be externally regulated by the truck's vcm. I got a new 2 wire regulator from a local shop installed for $50. It is just a sense wire and remote turn on wire type of regulator. Very basic.

Since I stopped posting, I got my alternator regulator replaced. Now I charge at 14.7v all day. Then I wired the TFE down to .5 nominal and it slams.

Normal listening, I don't drop below 14.2v. When I'm going hard with most songs, the lowest I drop at idle is around 13.2v. Going full tilt on my favorite song while idling, I drop to 12.7v at the lowest. I know I could do some mad hairtricks, but I don't have any hot chicks in my life right now to make a video.

I'm just so sick of the forums. Some people are just here to be assholes. I know I can be an ass sometimes, but I do try to be helpful also.

No hate at all bro. Just stating that you, for some reason, cannot put together a build log without having crap come up. You seem to act as if you know everything about the industry. Maybe if you listen to the advice of the ones that have been in your shoes many times and learned from what they are saying, your system might be what you want then. Do not take this the wrong way but your a KID. You have been doing this for a couple years when others have been doing it for a couple decades. There is a huge difference. Its an online forum, take the criticism with a grain of salt not get all butt hurt. If you cannot do that then stop doing multiple build logs with the same crap. Maybe if your install way quality and not thrown together like a hot mess then things will be better for your log. This industry is not for the throw together builders. If you want a quality build log then do some actual quality work. Cut the childshit and learn from the veterans here.

If you do not like what someone is saying then simply don't respond. when you do, you come off as a know-it-all when you clearly are not.

END OF RANT. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wave.gif.002382ce7d7c19757ab945cc69819de1.gif

Good luck with your install and future. I honestly hope both work out for you.
Thanks, I think I'm going to be done with audio for a while. Then I'm going to find the time and re-do it right after learning from these mistakes.

No u don't understand. He's not saying charging 1v higher will do anything. He knows his alt should put out 370a at 12v or 14v.... His main point is he paid fricken $750 for 1 alternator!!! And it doesn't even charge 14.4v where it should... Singer put a regulator that does 13.9-13.7 hot which is dumb. I don't care if I won't hear a difference if I'm paying for a brand new alt I want it to charge 14.4v-15v... I know exactly how adulbirch feels because I had singer alts that did the same thing and singer told me my battery's were drained or bad connections or some how it was my fault.. Not the case I put my stock alts back in and charging 14.4v... So I sold my singer alts and bought excessive amperage and couldn't be happier.. Charge 14.4v or higher in 100' summer weather. It the type of regulator singer used in his alt simple as that end of story. Sigh
Exactly my point! I bought the most expensive alternator for my truck and expected a higher voltage. It ended up being that the regulator was not right for my application. That style required a vcm to operate as intended. Luckily, it only cost me $50 for a new regulator

It's a wiring harness that taps into the IGN fuse And then a wire the connects to power stud on alt and goes to a harness that plugs into the alt
Yep, that's what I've got

Not the harness itsself but could it be wired incorrectly ?
It was wired wrong for the stock alt's application, yes. Now it is correct with the new regulator.

Is Alex dead?
No, just busy and pissed off

 
Just grab a cpl of cuties from school and trick on.. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

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