Alex's Silverado

You still would need to charge at a higher voltage for max caps
Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk
He recomended placing a bank in series with the sense wire or something. I didn't understand it

If you're not loud yet an extra 1V at your battery isn't going to help.
Why have you not bought an external regulator?
I am a lot louder now, slightly louder than my last setup.

The extra volt or two would give me more cushion with my amp when demoing.

You're telling me you don't care about charging below 14v?

Depending on your truck or cars ecm which may control the alts voltage you may need a external regulator or bypass
My phone is actually broken right now, and I won't be getting a new one for another week. If you tried to text me back, I didn't get it, sorry. You can get ahold of me via PM's here though.

It is not connected in any way to the truck's ECM. It just turns on with a relay.

My stock alt charges the stock battery, which runs my mids/highs amp and all the stock electrical for the vehicle.

The 370 is hooked up with the DC power included wiring harness and relay that came with my dual alt bracket

Don't u have this singer 370 only running the audio side using dc power dual alt bracket and wiring harness? Because if that's the case no the truck pvc isn't the problem it's the type of regulator used in the alternator.
What's your stock alt charging at?
Yes, it's isolated.

The stock voltage fluctuates between 12.9v and high 14's. It turns the alt on or off depending on demand. Cruising on the highway, it shuts the alternator off for a little bit until voltage dips below 12.9v. Then it turns back on until it'll hold 14's. Guess it saves an extra half-mile per gallon or something...... not that it really matters after I added an extra thousand pounds to my truck //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
Might wanna check all your batts disconnect them from each other and the truck. Let them sit over night. Then load test them. Could be a bad battery or loose wire somewhere i.e. big 3. Bad ground

 
The extra volt or two would give me more cushion with my amp when demoing.

You're telling me you don't care about charging below 14v?
I charge at 14.4 with an external regulator just to properly maintain my batteries. I run amps with over-built and regulated power supply so they will make rated power at any real-world battery voltage and won't blow themselves up with fluctuations in input voltage. Charging 1V higher won't save you if you don't have adequate battery bank.... I'd do it for the sake of good battery maintenance, but if you're having trouble with feeding that amp regulating 1V higher isn't going to replace a few more of those big batteries or another alternator.

 
Might wanna check all your batts disconnect them from each other and the truck. Let them sit over night. Then load test them. Could be a bad battery or loose wire somewhere i.e. big 3. Bad ground
Batteries are all good. I had them stored for a couple months separated and they load test great. Batteries are about a year old and have been maintained with an XS float charger. I also have a supplemented ground run of Sky High 2/0 OFC. My wiring and batteries are not the issue. The ground run is bolted directly to the alternator case

I charge at 14.4 with an external regulator just to properly maintain my batteries. I run amps with over-built and regulated power supply so they will make rated power at any real-world battery voltage and won't blow themselves up with fluctuations in input voltage. Charging 1V higher won't save you if you don't have adequate battery bank.... I'd do it for the sake of good battery maintenance, but if you're having trouble with feeding that amp regulating 1V higher isn't going to replace a few more of those big batteries or another alternator.
I'm not dropping below 13v right now anyways, but I'd like a higher voltage to start with.

Charging higher doesn't fix voltage sag either
Ok, but it gives me more room to drop and I can watch it to get a better idea of how things are holding up

 
OK, so you're borderline autistic. Just buy a proper voltage regulator if this bothers you so much. You flush money away like a welfare queen on check day when it comes to equipment, then cheap out on install materials, electrical, and rush the builds. It's like a slow motion train wreck. This is why you're never happy and why your threads turn into 40 page shitpost sessions.

 
OK, so you're borderline autistic. Just buy a proper voltage regulator if this bothers you so much. You flush money away like a welfare queen on check day when it comes to equipment, then cheap out on install materials, electrical, and rush the builds. It's like a slow motion train wreck. This is why you're never happy and why your threads turn into 40 page shitpost sessions.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/applause.gif.bb805d8088f72dbc2fe808c29e85fb4c.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/word.gif.64b12e39f936af3b4fff38a1c0bd0244.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/iagree.gif.15d6c075ee8d3913ba26866d06993068.gif

 
OK, so you're borderline autistic. Just buy a proper voltage regulator if this bothers you so much. You flush money away like a welfare queen on check day when it comes to equipment, then cheap out on install materials, electrical, and rush the builds. It's like a slow motion train wreck. This is why you're never happy and why your threads turn into 40 page shitpost sessions.
Why the fuck are you even here?

It bothers me because it shouldn't have been an issue to begin with. When you buy an extremely expensive alternator, do you not expect it to charge at a minimum of 14.4?

I didn't cheap out on electrical. My electrical cost over $2k

I got plenty of wood and threaded pipe, so I don't think I cheaped out on install equipment

I rushed the build for a couple reasons. First of all, it's getting cold and I wanted it done because I don't have a garage big enough to comfortably work on my truck inside. Also, it had been months without subs and I needed something. I'm sure other people could relate, but no matter what I do, you're going to find a flaw with it.

It't one thing to have a lot of knowledge and be helpful. It's another thing to be a douchebag and try to argue just for the sake of argument.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/applause.gif.bb805d8088f72dbc2fe808c29e85fb4c.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/word.gif.64b12e39f936af3b4fff38a1c0bd0244.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/iagree.gif.15d6c075ee8d3913ba26866d06993068.gif
Came back just to hate on me?

Go listen to your MTX subs

 
He recomended placing a bank in series with the sense wire or something. I didn't understand it


I am a lot louder now, slightly louder than my last setup.

The extra volt or two would give me more cushion with my amp when demoing.

You're telling me you don't care about charging below 14v?

My phone is actually broken right now, and I won't be getting a new one for another week. If you tried to text me back, I didn't get it, sorry. You can get ahold of me via PM's here though.

It is not connected in any way to the truck's ECM. It just turns on with a relay.

My stock alt charges the stock battery, which runs my mids/highs amp and all the stock electrical for the vehicle.

The 370 is hooked up with the DC power included wiring harness and relay that came with my dual alt bracket

Yes, it's isolated.

The stock voltage fluctuates between 12.9v and high 14's. It turns the alt on or off depending on demand. Cruising on the highway, it shuts the alternator off for a little bit until voltage dips below 12.9v. Then it turns back on until it'll hold 14's. Guess it saves an extra half-mile per gallon or something...... not that it really matters after I added an extra thousand pounds to my truck //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
Caps are used as power storage in place a batteries and hold better then batteries on large draws.

So it would be of no use with the sense wire. Maybe the charging post..

But still 6 2.xV maxwell caps in series usually need to be charged at 16v.

Charging at 14v would be a waste.

You could have spent 500$ on a 4 pin alt and used a ext reg so you can just get another instead of wasteing 700$ on one.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

 
Caps are used as power storage in place a batteries and hold better then batteries on large draws.
So it would be of no use with the sense wire. Maybe the charging post..

But still 6 2.xV maxwell caps in series usually need to be charged at 16v.

Charging at 14v would be a waste.

You could have spent 500$ on a 4 pin alt and used a ext reg so you can just get another instead of wasteing 700$ on one.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk
unrelated, but why the hell are my GM alternators 4 pin, but they run on only 1 wire? are they 1 or 4 wire capable? lol

 
No hate at all bro. Just stating that you, for some reason, cannot put together a build log without having crap come up. You seem to act as if you know everything about the industry. Maybe if you listen to the advice of the ones that have been in your shoes many times and learned from what they are saying, your system might be what you want then. Do not take this the wrong way but your a KID. You have been doing this for a couple years when others have been doing it for a couple decades. There is a huge difference.

Its an online forum, take the criticism with a grain of salt not get all butt hurt. If you cannot do that then stop doing multiple build logs with the same crap. Maybe if your install way quality and not thrown together like a hot mess then things will be better for your log. This industry is not for the throw together builders. If you want a quality build log then do some actual quality work. Cut the childshit and learn from the veterans here.

If you do not like what someone is saying then simply don't respond. when you do, you come off as a know-it-all when you clearly are not.

END OF RANT. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wave.gif.002382ce7d7c19757ab945cc69819de1.gif

Good luck with your install and future. I honestly hope both work out for you.

 
Why the fuck are you even here?
Like a train wreck you just can't look away.

It bothers me because it shouldn't have been an issue to begin with. When you buy an extremely expensive alternator, do you not expect it to charge at a minimum of 14.4?
No, you expect it to be able to deliver the CURRENT for which it's rated. It will do that at whatever voltage your regulator tells it to do so. If you knew half as much as you think or lurked a little more you'd see this issue coming up time and time again with various makes and models not charging at 14V or regulating all over the place based on draw, temperature, or other factors.

I didn't cheap out on electrical. My electrical cost over $2k
OK, if your electrical is adequate to deliver the CURRENT that amp needs, why worry? Or again, are we back to you thinking that an extra 1V on input voltage to your amp will make you audibly louder? We all remember your phase of thinking that going to 18V charging system was going to be your silver bullet to finally get things right.

I got plenty of wood and threaded pipe, so I don't think I cheaped out on install equipment

Trying to replace a proper voltage regulator with a diode is cheaping out on the install. Building your baffle out of 2X4 and a sawzall is completely cheaping out when the correct procedure is to buy a router and some sheets of ply or MDF type material.

I rushed the build for a couple reasons. First of all, it's getting cold and I wanted it done because I don't have a garage big enough to comfortably work on my truck inside. Also, it had been months without subs and I needed something. I'm sure other people could relate, but no matter what I do, you're going to find a flaw with it.
I can see needing "something" but trying to rush something expensive and permanent is a terrible solution. I get it, Impulse control and deferment of gratification isn't your long suit there's plenty of that going around. For the love of God don't get involved with drugs or gambling ever! Mark my words you'll be doing this same thing again this spring and it'll be the same shitshow as your last adventures.

It't one thing to have a lot of knowledge and be helpful. It's another thing to be a douchebag and try to argue just for the sake of argument.
You still think we're all just persecuting you for some reason?

[/QUOTE]
 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/clap.gif.178cba2c538c68e720c727fcb024b19c.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/iagree.gif.15d6c075ee8d3913ba26866d06993068.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yourock.gif.93d527d504392657a77fa577298070a1.gif...This guy knows his shyte son!!!
 
Like a train wreck you just can't look away.



No, you expect it to be able to deliver the CURRENT for which it's rated. It will do that at whatever voltage your regulator tells it to do so. If you knew half as much as you think or lurked a little more you'd see this issue coming up time and time again with various makes and models not charging at 14V or regulating all over the place based on draw, temperature, or other factors.

OK, if your electrical is adequate to deliver the CURRENT that amp needs, why worry? Or again, are we back to you thinking that an extra 1V on input voltage to your amp will make you audibly louder? We all remember your phase of thinking that going to 18V charging system was going to be your silver bullet to finally get things right.

Trying to replace a proper voltage regulator with a diode is cheaping out on the install. Building your baffle out of 2X4 and a sawzall is completely cheaping out when the correct procedure is to buy a router and some sheets of ply or MDF type material.

I can see needing "something" but trying to rush something expensive and permanent is a terrible solution. I get it, Impulse control and deferment of gratification isn't your long suit there's plenty of that going around. For the love of God don't get involved with drugs or gambling ever! Mark my words you'll be doing this same thing again this spring and it'll be the same shitshow as your last adventures.

You still think we're all just persecuting you for some reason?


No u don't understand. He's not saying charging 1v higher will do anything. He knows his alt should put out 370a at 12v or 14v.... His main point is he paid fricken $750 for 1 alternator!!! And it doesn't even charge 14.4v where it should... Singer put a regulator that does 13.9-13.7 hot which is dumb. I don't care if I won't hear a difference if I'm paying for a brand new alt I want it to charge 14.4v-15v... I know exactly how adulbirch feels because I had singer alts that did the same thing and singer told me my battery's were drained or bad connections or some how it was my fault.. Not the case I put my stock alts back in and charging 14.4v... So I sold my singer alts and bought excessive amperage and couldn't be happier.. Charge 14.4v or higher in 100' summer weather. It the type of regulator singer used in his alt simple as that end of story. Sigh

 

---------- Post added at 10:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:22 AM ----------

 

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/clap.gif.178cba2c538c68e720c727fcb024b19c.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/iagree.gif.15d6c075ee8d3913ba26866d06993068.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yourock.gif.93d527d504392657a77fa577298070a1.gif...This guy knows his shyte son!!!

U gunna buy him dinner before you ride his dlck that hard?

 
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