2011 f150 full sound system help

[caraudionewbie8]

Hey guys im looking to do a full sound system in my 2011 f150 xlt. Its a bone stock truck, doesnt have sync or steering wheel controls.

Im looking to use a single 12" sub and do all 4 door speakers and head unit, but trying to keep costs low while still getting quality stuff. I've never done sound systems before so i need a bit of help.

Here's my mentality, I have no sync or steering wheel control, so I pull the old head unit out, use an adapter from the stock to new head unit to power a single din radio. I then maybe will have to hook up the antenna some how as well. I then wire my sub to the amp, and amp to the battery and head unit. I then put the new door speakers in, and use the wire adapters to take the door speaker wires and plug them into the new head unit.

Im using a basic new plastic kit to hold the new head unit and keep all ac controls, heres the link to it. It comes with an adapter, is this all that I need to power the new radio?

I'm thinking of using an under the back seat shallow box with a skar VD-12 800 watt shallow mount sub. What amp and wiring kit should i use with it? I'm going to get a box that is fit to go under the back seat on one side. I also should note i think the size of the sub matters with the depth of the box I chose, but im not sure how to determine which ones will work. I've linked it below

So my questions are:
what 12" sub, amp, door speakers, and wiring kit do you guys recommend?
what single din head unit should i get?
what door speaker adapters should i use?
what adapter do i need to plug my stock wiring into the new radio?


Thanks for the help, anything is appreciated as I know nothing about this stuff

Sub: https://www.skaraudio.com/products/vd-12-inch-car-subwoofer
Plastic adapter : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YNYT53R/?tag=caraudiocom-20
Box Option 1: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IFEAWEW/?tag=caraudiocom-20
Box Option 2: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016JKOZA/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Click to read more...

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

Go to Crutchfield and look at decks there. You will get all the parts needed and step by step instructions. Alpine, Kenwood, Pioneer are solid.
If it were my money, I’d ditch replacing all 4 door speakers and just focus on the front by getting a component set and amp them.
Skar gets no love here. What is your budget? Remember to account for wiring, rca’s, fuses, etc

 

[caraudionewbie8]

Just an update. I've ordered a few things from crutchfield.

Kenwood Excelon KFC-X683C 2 way speakers for my front doors.
Alpine CDE-172BT
Crux SOOFD-27C Wiring Interface
Metra 99-5820 Dash Kit (Matte Black)
Metra 40-CR10 Antenna Adapter

Now that i've got the crux wiring kit, I think the wiring for the speakers will just go right through the harness and into the new speaker once i solder everything up. Ill just have to leave a spare wire hanging off for the amp power turn on.

Now what i'm left with is the decision of a shallow mount sub, box, amp, and wiring kit. Anyone have suggestions for these?

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Price wise the shallow Dayton is a good choice. Otherwise, look at the Sundown or JL shallow subs if you can afford them.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Just an update. I've ordered a few things from crutchfield.

Kenwood Excelon KFC-X683C 2 way speakers for my front doors.
Alpine CDE-172BT
Crux SOOFD-27C Wiring Interface
Metra 99-5820 Dash Kit (Matte Black)
Metra 40-CR10 Antenna Adapter

Now that i've got the crux wiring kit, I think the wiring for the speakers will just go right through the harness and into the new speaker once i solder everything up. Ill just have to leave a spare wire hanging off for the amp power turn on.

Now what i'm left with is the decision of a shallow mount sub, box, amp, and wiring kit. Anyone have suggestions for these?

Not sure how I feel about Kenwood components up front but you don't have a lot of options in 5x7. We used the JBL Stadium separates in my brother's 250 and those were really nice (but a bit spendy). I used some Kickers in my 250 that are about what I expected for the price but sound decent enough at modest power levels. I did put some coaxials in the rear locations and that's rather my biggest regret of the whole project as they really don't add anything if you're actually riding in the truck listening.

Whenever you do the head unit swap you may as well have the seats out and the carpet skinned back so you can get some RCAs, power, and remote turnon wire run to wherever you'd plan to mount an amp. Might even run some speaker wires from the head unit to the back (leave yourself a bit of slack) and another set of RCAs if you want to future proof this, say you want to amp your front speakers down the road you save yourself having to yank everything out again.

Knuconceptz (SP?) is popular for amp wiring kits you'll get what you pay for from them. Stinger is also a reliable brand.... really though for what you're likely doing you shouldn't need to go over the top with wiring.

I don't know what passes for shallow subs these days but I can tell you to avoid the rookie mistake of trying to get the biggest thing you can that you think will fit. A smaller sub in the right airspace will always outperform a larger sub in too small of a box. If you're handy with woodworking you could build your own once you figure out where you want to put it and how much space you have. Others can probably recommend a serviceable pre-fab.

 

[caraudionewbie8]

Price wise the shallow Dayton is a good choice. Otherwise, look at the Sundown or JL shallow subs if you can afford them.

Yea if the Dayton is good bang for the buck then i'd like to go with that over more expensive options.

So say now that I get the Dayton and a box for my truck and a wiring kit, what should I do for an amp?

I'm slightly confused on getting the right amp as I watched a few videos but im not confident enough to order one with only my knowledge. The Dayton's specs are:
Dual 4 ohm voice coils, 6 layers total, for high BL force and multiple wiring options
RMS-250Watts
max-500watts
Impedance= 4+4ohms
Frequency response 28 to 300 Hz

Theres more stats on the page i linked if you scroll down.

How should I go about picking an amp for this and wiring it (not sure what size wires to get ). Any suggestions?

Dayton 12" Shallow sub: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-ls12-44-12-low-profile-subwoofer-dual-4-ohm--295-253

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I've had great luck with JBL/Harmon/Infinity lineup and Crutchfield is tip top for customer support. This would be a safe bet to power that Dayton for you:

Infinity Primus 3000A

Mono subwoofer amplifier — 300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

www.crutchfield.com

For about 400$ JBL and Infinity (probably the same guts) have 5 channel offerings that would serve to power up your fronts + the sub.... or you could get a small separate 2 channel or 4 channel down the road if you think you need more on the mids and highs.

Shop

www.knukonceptz.com

This should do to install a small mono amplifier and the power wire at least will be adequate to add a bit more later if needed. If you feel froggy buy the OFC (oxygen free copper) version instead but for what you're doing the one I linked should be plenty.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Yea if the Dayton is good bang for the buck then i'd like to go with that over more expensive options.

So say now that I get the Dayton and a box for my truck and a wiring kit, what should I do for an amp?

I'm slightly confused on getting the right amp as I watched a few videos but im not confident enough to order one with only my knowledge. The Dayton's specs are:
Dual 4 ohm voice coils, 6 layers total, for high BL force and multiple wiring options
RMS-250Watts
max-500watts
Impedance= 4+4ohms
Frequency response 28 to 300 Hz

Theres more stats on the page i linked if you scroll down.

How should I go about picking an amp for this and wiring it (not sure what size wires to get ). Any suggestions?

Dayton 12" Shallow sub: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-ls12-44-12-low-profile-subwoofer-dual-4-ohm--295-253

This should work.

 

[caraudionewbie8]

EDIT

 

[caraudionewbie8]

So if I go with this sub: JBL Club WS1200

JBL Club WS1200

Club Series 12" shallow-mount component subwoofer with 2- or 4-ohm selectable impedance

www.crutchfield.com

It has up to 250 watts RMS and has a selector switch for 2 or 4 ohms.


hould I then get a mono amp that can handle around 250RMS at 4ohms or 250RMS at 2 ohms?

 

[caraudionewbie8]

Little update. I think i've decided on going with the JBL Club WS1200 sub with the Infinity Primus 300A Mono AMP.

The sub has a rating of 250RMS and the AMP has 300RMS at 2ohms. This will work fine right?

So I should get a 4GA wiring kit? Crutchfield is recommending me an 8GA wiring kit for this amp Is there anything else i need to know when wiring this thing up? Thanks

 

[BCotrell]

So if I go with this sub: JBL Club WS1200

JBL Club WS1200

Club Series 12" shallow-mount component subwoofer with 2- or 4-ohm selectable impedance

www.crutchfield.com

It has up to 250 watts RMS and has a selector switch for 2 or 4 ohms.


hould I then get a mono amp that can handle around 250RMS at 4ohms or 250RMS at 2 ohms?

That pioneer gmd9705 is a good amp but you could also get away with a bigger Full bridge four channel like this. Better on electrical too!

Amazon.com: Taramp's DS 1200x4 2 Ohms 4 Channels 1200 Watts Amplifier

Buy Taramp's DS 1200x4 2 Ohms 4 Channels 1200 Watts Amplifier: Multichannel Amplifiers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

This would give you gobs of clean power for the excelon 2ways(glad you didn’t go with some 4 or 5 way ********.) and it would give you 600 watts on the rear bridged at 4 ohms at 12v so it should be a bit more at 14v.

don’t buy a prefabbed sealed box. It’s four cuts of wood glued, screwed and caulked. If it’s going to be hidden it’s best to make one to the sub specs. If you have the space a ported would optimize output from a single sub. As for subs, these
Sundowns look super well built and a solid hybrid between a full size sub and a slim (just under 5” depth). Also good Value

SLD Series

Sundown Yard Sale - Shop our stock of subwoofers, amplifiers, and speakers. Available in boxed, loose, or motor & basket sets.

sundownyardsale.com

this amp kit is ofc, rca’s are stout, and had plenty of speaker wire.

Shop

www.knukonceptz.com

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

That pioneer gmd9705 is a good amp but you could also get away with a bigger Full bridge four channel like this. Better on electrical too!

Amazon.com: Taramp's DS 1200x4 2 Ohms 4 Channels 1200 Watts Amplifier

Buy Taramp's DS 1200x4 2 Ohms 4 Channels 1200 Watts Amplifier: Multichannel Amplifiers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

This would give you gobs of clean power for the excelon 2ways(glad you didn’t go with some 4 or 5 way ********.) and it would give you 600 watts on the rear bridged at 4 ohms at 12v so it should be a bit more at 14v.

don’t buy a prefabbed sealed box. It’s four cuts of wood glued, screwed and caulked. If it’s going to be hidden it’s best to make one to the sub specs. If you have the space a ported would optimize output from a single sub. As for subs, these
Sundowns look super well built and a solid hybrid between a full size sub and a slim (just under 5” depth). Also good Value

SLD Series

Sundown Yard Sale - Shop our stock of subwoofers, amplifiers, and speakers. Available in boxed, loose, or motor & basket sets.

sundownyardsale.com

this amp kit is ofc, rca’s are stout, and had plenty of speaker wire.

Shop

www.knukonceptz.com

So, what's wrong with the Pioneer 5 channel for his system? It gives him 100 x 4 and 600 x 1 on a dedicated bass channel with a bass knob. The sub that he picked is only 250 rms., so, he would be feeding it more than double the rated rms. Plus, it's an easier install with only one amp. His stock electrical can handle 1,000 watts.

 

[BCotrell]

So, what's wrong with the Pioneer 5 channel for his system? It gives him 100 x 4 and 600 x 1 on a dedicated bass channel with a bass knob. The sub that he picked is only 250 rms., so, he would be feeding it more than double the rated rms. Plus, it's an easier install with only one amp. His stock electrical can handle 1,000 watts.

-the jbl sub he picked is $150 for a low power handling shallow sub. He can do better for less

- he indicated he’s going to do front 2-ways only. Doesn’t need five channels( four of which are relatively low power.)

- my recommendation will still be a one amp scenario. With the 1200.4., the front two channels Will be on the 2-ways and the bridged rear channels Will power the amp. More than 600 watts

-lastly that taramps is $251 bucks And the 9705 is up to $300+ with pioneers Price increase. It’s a slight departure from the great value lane it used to be in.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

-the jbl sub he picked is $150 for a low power handling shallow sub. He can do better for less

- he indicated he’s going to do front 2-ways only. Doesn’t need five channels( four of which are relatively low power.)

- my recommendation will still be a one amp scenario. With the 1200.4., the front two channels Will be on the 2-ways and the bridged rear channels Will power the amp. More than 600 watts

-lastly that taramps is $251 bucks And the 9705 is up to $300+ with pioneers Price increase. It’s a slight departure from the great value lane it used to be in.

The only drawback is that the Taramps doesn't have crossover points. Isn't that going to be a problem?