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2011 f150 full sound system help
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<blockquote data-quote="hispls" data-source="post: 8713739" data-attributes="member: 614752"><p>Not sure how I feel about Kenwood components up front but you don't have a lot of options in 5x7. We used the JBL Stadium separates in my brother's 250 and those were really nice (but a bit spendy). I used some Kickers in my 250 that are about what I expected for the price but sound decent enough at modest power levels. I did put some coaxials in the rear locations and that's rather my biggest regret of the whole project as they really don't add anything if you're actually riding in the truck listening. </p><p></p><p>Whenever you do the head unit swap you may as well have the seats out and the carpet skinned back so you can get some RCAs, power, and remote turnon wire run to wherever you'd plan to mount an amp. Might even run some speaker wires from the head unit to the back (leave yourself a bit of slack) and another set of RCAs if you want to future proof this, say you want to amp your front speakers down the road you save yourself having to yank everything out again. </p><p></p><p>Knuconceptz (SP?) is popular for amp wiring kits you'll get what you pay for from them. Stinger is also a reliable brand.... really though for what you're likely doing you shouldn't need to go over the top with wiring. </p><p></p><p>I don't know what passes for shallow subs these days but I can tell you to avoid the rookie mistake of trying to get the biggest thing you can that you think will fit. A smaller sub in the right airspace will always outperform a larger sub in too small of a box. If you're handy with woodworking you could build your own once you figure out where you want to put it and how much space you have. Others can probably recommend a serviceable pre-fab.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="hispls, post: 8713739, member: 614752"] Not sure how I feel about Kenwood components up front but you don't have a lot of options in 5x7. We used the JBL Stadium separates in my brother's 250 and those were really nice (but a bit spendy). I used some Kickers in my 250 that are about what I expected for the price but sound decent enough at modest power levels. I did put some coaxials in the rear locations and that's rather my biggest regret of the whole project as they really don't add anything if you're actually riding in the truck listening. Whenever you do the head unit swap you may as well have the seats out and the carpet skinned back so you can get some RCAs, power, and remote turnon wire run to wherever you'd plan to mount an amp. Might even run some speaker wires from the head unit to the back (leave yourself a bit of slack) and another set of RCAs if you want to future proof this, say you want to amp your front speakers down the road you save yourself having to yank everything out again. Knuconceptz (SP?) is popular for amp wiring kits you'll get what you pay for from them. Stinger is also a reliable brand.... really though for what you're likely doing you shouldn't need to go over the top with wiring. I don't know what passes for shallow subs these days but I can tell you to avoid the rookie mistake of trying to get the biggest thing you can that you think will fit. A smaller sub in the right airspace will always outperform a larger sub in too small of a box. If you're handy with woodworking you could build your own once you figure out where you want to put it and how much space you have. Others can probably recommend a serviceable pre-fab. [/QUOTE]
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