Need help installing aftermarket subwoofer setup into my new used car.

[s.abushaikha]

Here’s some photos.

 

[Old_Slapper]

There are many wires into and out of the factory amp. Not needed is the factory amp. All four + and - wires are affected. In phase or out of phase, all wires are color to color from the pre-amp outputs to the inputs of the factory amplifier. Since you’ll down either two front speakers or two rear, and not keep all of them. Because the four speaker drivers cannot handle it. NBA stuff here. The adjustment to make here is. 1988. Measure all the readings of the wires at 12 volts. Redirect out from the factory amplifier directly into the car radio. Pre-amp inputs. And out to the RCA jacks into the power amplifier used. All reading with in limits. Normally under 6 volts. Double din. Reverse engineering the wiring setup. Special assignment iso connectors made. Which wire and where into the radio? Same location it came out from. This will act as a flux capacitor. Analogy made here. The whole set up is here.

I think it's time to ban Mitchell. He's not a real person, or he's using "Talk to Text," and he has a really bad accent. Really, none of his posts have made any sense, and I really tried to understand what he's saying.

What the crap does he mean by "NBA stuff here."

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

So the RCA’s are definitely running up to the front and towards the direction of the factory head unit. I’m going to post the photos separately. It won’t let me on mobile.

If that is the case, you can just ignore those. What you want to do is connect the LOC to the OEM subwoofer wires. Use a digital LOC so you can have a remote wire at hand.

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

Here’s some photos.

It looks like he had an aftermarket radio.

 

[Mitchell Fosgate III]

Here’s some photos.

Very good. Lexus. That looks like an air vent. Did the original guy ruined it? It looks broken off on the dash board.

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

Very good. Lexus. That looks like an air vent. Did the original guy ruined it? It looks broken off on the dash board.

It looks like a vent under the footwell, so no beauty trim is needed.

 

[s.abushaikha]

It looks like he had an aftermarket radio.

I don’t think he did. It’s very hard to install an aftermarket radio in this car. And if he did what would be the reason for him spending $600 on a separate CarPlay module to work with the factory screen…

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

On the mobile photos, that's special assignment revealing photos. The computer tech guys took over. You have to be good in Java to get those photos in. I take it you're working on it now. How much did you pay for the LOC?

If you are asking me about the photos and vehicle, they are not mine. The original poster owns the car and sent the pictures.
As for a good digital LOC, it will run $50-$70 Trump dollars or $150-$170 Biden dollars.

 

[s.abushaikha]

If that is the case, you can just ignore those. What you want to do is connect the LOC to the OEM subwoofer wires. Use a digital LOC so you can have a remote wire at hand.

What does that process entail? And how? Can you provide a photo of the specific loc you’re talking about and maybe explain what goes where if you don’t mind?

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

I don’t think he did. It’s very hard to install an aftermarket radio in this car. And if he did what would be the reason for him spending $600 on a CarPlay module…

Good point. Only reason I assumed aftermarket radio was because the remote wire also runs along the RCA cables. I thought about the LOC being behind the radio but it would be harder to install it there than out back so it kind of made no sense.
How difficult is it to remove the radio?

 

[s.abushaikha]

Good point. Only reason I assumed aftermarket radio was because the remote wire also runs along the RCA cables. I thought about the LOC being behind the radio but it would be harder to install it there than out back so it kind of made no sense.
How difficult is it to remove the radio?

I’m not sure how difficult it is to remove the radio. But it’s definitely not as easy as other cars. I don’t think the LOC was in the front. I suspect that it was in the trunk of the vehicle, as so does my local audio shop think the same. This explains how the dealership could’ve easily removed it for themselves, rather than the thought of them taking apart the dash and radio to get behind without knowing if it was truly there to begin with…

 

[Mitchell Fosgate III]

There's a factory amp connected still yet. You'll have to bypass that. The factory amp, I'm sure about Lexus and the watts to this factory amps. But it feeds all four speakers. Volts going into it, needs to be bypassed first. Windows, electrical roll windows, just like a Nissan, uses volts from the ignition switch and into the speakers. They call this nodes. Volts into the factory amp must be dealt with. Not sure how they or you did that. LOC will set the correct signals into the radio back into the power amplifier which you are working on now. As I said earlier really technical stuff. I can see how frustration can enter. LOC, however expensive is needed. Not voting. And Biden is dropping out of the race. LOC, back in the 1980s, Bose, LOC was used. Not sure who's the leading dealer or vendor today on those setups. FORD was the best then.

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

What does that process entail? And how? Can you provide a photo of the specific loc you’re talking about and maybe explain what goes where if you don’t mind?

Extend the OEM subwoofer wires to the amplifier location. Splice them to the LOC high input. Connect power from the amplifier to the LOC. Connect remote from LOC to amp. Plug RCA cables from the LOC to the amp.
Turn LOC and amp gains counterclockwise. Turn on system and radio voulme to 75%. Turn up LOC gain 1/3 then amp gain to where it blends with the front speakers without distortion. If amp gain goes too high; back it back and turn up LOC gain. Then go again at the amp gain.
IMPORATANT - Heed the polarity of the OEM subwoofer wires.

 

[s.abushaikha]

Extend the OEM subwoofer wires to the amplifier location. Splice them to the LOC high input. Connect power from the amplifier to the LOC. Connect remote from LOC to amp. Plug RCA cables from the LOC to the amp.
Turn LOC and amp gains counterclockwise. Turn on system and radio voulme to 75%. Turn up LOC gain 1/3 then amp gain to where it blends with the front speakers without distortion. If amp gain goes too high; back it back and turn up LOC gain. Then go again at the amp gain.
IMPORATANT - Heed the polarity of the OEM subwoofer wires.

I really appreciate your help. So should I purchase the simple $20 LOC you sent me earlier. Or do I need to buy the KeyLOC?

When I get time I will try this. If for some reason I need extra help I will message back this thread. Thank you.

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

I’m not sure how difficult it is to remove the radio. But it’s definitely not as easy as other cars. I don’t think the LOC was in the front. I suspect that it was in the trunk of the vehicle, as so does my local audio shop think the same. This explains how the dealership could’ve easily removed it for themselves, rather than the thought of them taking apart the dash and radio to get behind without knowing if it was truly there to begin with…

On second thought, Mitchell is probably right. An OEM amp may modify the signal to protect the sub. So instead of a regular digital LOC, get an Audiocontrol LC2i Pro. It wires up exactly as above but it has better features.