Need help installing aftermarket subwoofer setup into my new used car.

There are many wires into and out of the factory amp. Not needed is the factory amp. All four + and - wires are affected. In phase or out of phase, all wires are color to color from the pre-amp outputs to the inputs of the factory amplifier. Since you’ll down either two front speakers or two rear, and not keep all of them. Because the four speaker drivers cannot handle it. NBA stuff here. The adjustment to make here is. 1988. Measure all the readings of the wires at 12 volts. Redirect out from the factory amplifier directly into the car radio. Pre-amp inputs. And out to the RCA jacks into the power amplifier used. All reading with in limits. Normally under 6 volts. Double din. Reverse engineering the wiring setup. Special assignment iso connectors made. Which wire and where into the radio? Same location it came out from. This will act as a flux capacitor. Analogy made here. The whole set up is here.
What in the HE double toothpicks are you replying to. I'm taking about flux capacitators and how the infinite power inherent in Tesla free energy would make your stock 120A alt into a 5000A with shielding. Doesn't everyone know the basics? With some 73% unobtanium core power wire any noise you reap the whirlwind everytime your key is inserted.
Best advice is to buy some Ray-Bans and a lounge chair.
 
Tesla cars. They run on electric. Changing the Tesla radio. Since all after market radios and amplifiers run on 12 volts from the battery, the only difference would be the power supply. Tesla. Does not affect operation of the radio changing it. I haven’t seen a Tesla radio connectors yet, but if the colors are different, should not affect the 12 volts radio.
 
Tesla cars. They run on electric. Changing the Tesla radio. Since all after market radios and amplifiers run on 12 volts from the battery, the only difference would be the power supply. Tesla. Does not affect operation of the radio changing it. I haven’t seen a Tesla radio connectors yet, but if the colors are different, should not affect the 12 volts radio.
PlEaSe BrO... just stop.
 
PlEaSe BrO... just stop.
How do you account for high output sensitivity? All the wires, disregarding magnetic flux, minimal affect, has to be in phase. Meaning connections made are from reading from two basic inputs and outputs. Differential inputs. The differential inputs are given than passed into a line output converter. So that the speakers can pick it up and play it.
 
Do you see yourself as a hypocrite or a car audio technician? I think I’ve proved my point. All of us here want to be a technician. Changing car radios should be fun. And not a job. Millionaire once said, every battle is won, before it is ever fought. I think the movie was WallStreet. Pg 13, 1987.
 
How do you account for high output sensitivity? All the wires, disregarding magnetic flux, minimal affect, has to be in phase. Meaning connections made are from reading from two basic inputs and outputs. Differential inputs. The differential inputs are given than passed into a line output converter. So that the speakers can pick it up and play it.
Nice try a$$hat, you shoulda' called out the bs initially. Everytime i respond and I mean EVERYTIME its 20-30 sec on the reply like its doing a job. Following its programming.
@Mitchell Fosgate ... I understand and will comply with your instructions. Any further inquiries will be submitted thru other means. Thank you for a great solution and multiple positive reviews will be submitted.

Someone please rid me of this priest... lol

Bad quote but...
 
Honestly, you want the car tomorrow. Okay. I’ll get those iso 16 pin connectors by tomorrow. Just plug it in, and the amplifier is bypassed. Color to color on the return path. Okay. I think I’ve got this connector. Just hook it up. And set. Bypassed. I just need to double check the voltage reading and the return path. Make sure enough volts go into the radio after bypass. You’ll have your car tomorrow. And “congratulations, 15,000 cars.” It was a movie a long time ago. In Michigan.
 
Honestly, you want the car tomorrow. Okay. I’ll get those iso 16 pin connectors by tomorrow. Just plug it in, and the amplifier is bypassed. Color to color on the return path. Okay. I think I’ve got this connector. Just hook it up. And set. Bypassed. I just need to double check the voltage reading and the return path. Make sure enough volts go into the radio after bypass. You’ll have your car tomorrow. And “congratulations, 15,000 cars.” It was a movie a long time ago. In Michigan.
And this is helpful how? Someone says I need my ride by Monday with an amp or 2 to install, enclosure to build and I'm dropping it off early Sunday. How does your AI program determine a response without experience?Maybe a big payday but sudden family problems affecting payment? R U Human?
And to address the original thread the op seems to know whats up. Power wires are run, loc missing and he wants to fix the issue. Either install a legit HU or install a quality LOC. Ez peasy
 
Problem solved then. LOC. Auto shop? I’ve seen those guys around Costco. Personally, high school stuff. But I took up electronics in high school. I find it interesting is radios in cars last really long. ASE certified. Eh…! Good but still not good. Any certification in car audio? No. You’ll have to take one in electronics. Certificate. Experts in just that. Electronics and volts.
 
Problem solved then. LOC. Auto shop? I’ve seen those guys around Costco. Personally, high school stuff. But I took up electronics in high school. I find it interesting is radios in cars last really long. ASE certified. Eh…! Good but still not good. Any certification in car audio? No. You’ll have to take one in electronics. Certificate. Experts in just that. Electronics and volts.
Last quote my FRIEND... Here where I live its the ol'school of HARD knocks to get edufuctated. My momma tells me that their passing students along no matter their smarts in the left coast. I'm there almost ain't I? AZ?
IF YOU ARE ASE CERTIFIED THIS HAS TO be PAPERMAKER trolling. No more quotes, responses from me in this or any thread.
 
Premium sounds. LOC. Do you know car audio well? If not, that subwoofer won’t work. Bypassing the factory amp. Try them out. Pay the $500 dollars. If it works, then you’ve got your system going. Auto shop? Which one? Loc are either cheap or expensive. It makes the frequencies smaller. Amplitude. The problem is how the frequencies are read. Leading or lagging phase. They all have to be in phase using correct crossovers. Filters. Very much technical. Some people there are donuts. So paying them first. If the system don’t work, you may sue the auto shop for damages. Easy going.
If I was ok with paying the $500 I would without asking here. But I’m not trying to pay them $500 when they charged me $300 to install a whole setup in my last car. They very good work and are very well known in my area.
 
Ok, let us try to figure this out. Where do those RCAs come from. If the previous owner only had a sub system installed, he would only need two RCAs. So do trace them to form the battle plan.
Here is how LOCs are wired-
On one side you will have pairs of regular wires, white and gray if two channels plus green and purple if four channels.
These wires are spliced into the factory speaker wires to feed the signal into the LOC.
The other side will have either two or four RCA ports. These feed the modified signal to the amplifier. That's it for a passive LOC.
If it is a digital LOC, it will have power, ground, and remote out. The remote out goes to the amp's remote terminal. That's it for now.
Thank you for your help. When I get home I’ll follow the cables. I know they lead to the front via the right side floor/door jams.
 
Ok, let us try to figure this out. Where do those RCAs come from. If the previous owner only had a sub system installed, he would only need two RCAs. So do trace them to form the battle plan.
Here is how LOCs are wired-
On one side you will have pairs of regular wires, white and gray if two channels plus green and purple if four channels.
These wires are spliced into the factory speaker wires to feed the signal into the LOC.
The other side will have either two or four RCA ports. These feed the modified signal to the amplifier. That's it for a passive LOC.
If it is a digital LOC, it will have power, ground, and remote out. The remote out goes to the amp's remote terminal. That's it for now.

So the RCA’s are definitely running up to the front and towards the direction of the factory head unit. I’m going to post the photos separately. It won’t let me on mobile.
 
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