Initial DSP 408 Setup

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Is there any initial Dayton DSP 408 setups that I can use, and, then adjust from there? I'll be honest, this DSP stuff is over my old *** geezer head.

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Is there any initial Dayton DSP 408 setups that I can use, and, then adjust from there? I'll be honest, this DSP stuff is over my old *** geezer head.

what are you having issues with?

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

what are you having issues with?

I have the app on my phone. I am just wondering

what are you having issues with?

what are you having issues with?

I have the app on my phone. When I initially turn on my system, what settings should I have? It looks like everything is at zero right now. My setup is:

Taramps DS800X4 (200x4)
Channels #1 and #2= front tweets, Pioneer pro 3.5
Channels #3 and #4= front midbass, AB VFL65 MB

Taramps DS250X2 (125X2)
Channels #5 and #6= rear midrange, Pioneer pro 6.5

Taramps MD30001 (3000X1)
Channels #7 and #8= subwoofer AB HD15D2

Any help is deeply appreciated. Installing right now.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I have the app on my phone. I am just wondering

I have the app on my phone. When I initially turn on my system, what settings should I have? It looks like everything is at zero right now. My setup is:

Taramps DS800X4 (200x4)
Channels #1 and #2= front tweets, Pioneer pro 3.5
Channels #3 and #4= front midbass, AB VFL65 MB

Taramps DS250X2 (125X2)
Channels #5 and #6= rear midrange, Pioneer pro 6.5

Taramps MD30001 (3000X1)
Channels #7 and #8= subwoofer AB HD15D2

Any help is deeply appreciated. Installing right now.

i'm pretty sure we all told you to not have anything in the rear audio wise but too late now.

first did you buy the bluetooth dongle for that dsp? How are you getting signal right now? make sure you go to advanced > mixer tab on the bottom and raise the levels up on there.

make sure the supplied in line capacitor not used for the tweeters. Go to advanced settings, then go to output tab on the bottom and where the crossover section is and use high pass for channels 1 and 2 and for the frequency play around anywhere from 5000hz to 10,000hz depending how it matches up with your mids play around with the slopes to see what sounds best. high pass is cutting off everything underneath that frequency slowly attenuating it. The slope is how fast it cuts off. 6 db slope will play a lot of musical information below the crossover point while a 24 db slope will block most of everything below that point.

For your channel 3 and 4, for high pass try anywhere from 63 to 150hz and again, play with the slopes. For low pass anywhere from 2500hz to 5000hz, again play with slopes. Low pass is cutting off anything above that frequency. you have the tweeters high passed and the mid low passed so they dont play the same frequencies as each other which fks up the SQ.

channel 5 and 6, high pass same as 3 and 4. Low pass leave it wide open at 20,000hz.

7 and 8 low pass would be anywhere around 50hz to 80hz depends on where your midbass response drops off aka where you settled with on the mids.

we will work on the delay and EQ after.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

i'm pretty sure we all told you to not have anything in the rear audio wise but too late now.

first did you buy the bluetooth dongle for that dsp? How are you getting signal right now? make sure you go to advanced > mixer tab on the bottom and raise the levels up on there.

make sure the supplied in line capacitor not used for the tweeters. Go to advanced settings, then go to output tab on the bottom and where the crossover section is and use high pass for channels 1 and 2 and for the frequency play around anywhere from 5000hz to 10,000hz depending how it matches up with your mids play around with the slopes to see what sounds best. high pass is cutting off everything underneath that frequency slowly attenuating it. The slope is how fast it cuts off. 6 db slope will play a lot of musical information below the crossover point while a 24 db slope will block most of everything below that point.

For your channel 3 and 4, for high pass try anywhere from 63 to 150hz and again, play with the slopes. For low pass anywhere from 2500hz to 5000hz, again play with slopes. Low pass is cutting off anything above that frequency. you have the tweeters high passed and the mid low passed so they dont play the same frequencies as each other which fks up the SQ.

channel 5 and 6, high pass same as 3 and 4. Low pass leave it wide open at 20,000hz.

7 and 8 low pass would be anywhere around 50hz to 80hz depends on where your midbass response drops off aka where you settled with on the mids.

we will work on the delay and EQ after.

The midbass only plays between 100-3000hz. Does that info help with sub crossover setup? Thanks for helping man. Where should I put the volume levels on the DSP and gains on the amp during initial setup? Btw, I do have the blue tooth dongle.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

The midbass only plays between 100-3000hz. Does that info help with sub crossover setup? Thanks for helping man. Where should I put the volume levels on the DSP and gains on the amp during initial setup? Btw, I do have the blue tooth dongle.

forget everything on paper and just start experimenting at low to medium high volumes and see how it all sounds.

I'd try to keep the output levels around 49-50 ish so you dont have to keep going back to the amp and resetting gains, your output section is a mini gain control to your amps that way you can add or subtract as needed. Gains on the amp just go up until things start sounding really peaky and your ears start feeling like its all sounding like shit, then back it off slightly. With pro audio drivers your ears will tap out WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY before the mids and highs tap out.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

forget everything on paper and just start experimenting at low to medium high volumes and see how it all sounds.

I'd try to keep the output levels around 49-50 ish so you dont have to keep going back to the amp and resetting gains, your output section is a mini gain control to your amps that way you can add or subtract as needed. Gains on the amp just go up until things start sounding really peaky and your ears start feeling like its all sounding like shit, then back it off slightly. With pro audio drivers your ears will tap out WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY before the mids and highs tap out.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

View attachment 19095

just keep updating me on how it sounds, what its missing, or what sounds annoying, you can use specific portions of songs in seconds and i'll tell you what frequency is too much or too little based on your descriptions.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

just keep updating me on how it sounds, what its missing, or what sounds annoying, you can use specific portions of songs in seconds and i'll tell you what frequency is too much or too little based on your descriptions.

Still hooking all the fuses up. Haven't turned it on yet. So, can't get into program the DSP.

The two channel and four channel right now. Before turn on

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

I'm not getting any sound through the DSP

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

just keep updating me on how it sounds, what its missing, or what sounds annoying, you can use specific portions of songs in seconds and i'll tell you what frequency is too much or too little based on your descriptions.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Might want to edit that. Posting your phone number on a public forum is a terrible idea. Even though its dead here.

Youtube all the videos on the DSP and google the DSP as well. You will find tons of info and problems other people have had with it as well as their fixes. Thats how I learned about my DSR1.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Might want to edit that. Posting your phone number on a public forum is a terrible idea. Even though its dead here.

Youtube all the videos on the DSP and google the DSP as well. You will find tons of info and problems other people have had with it as well as their fixes. Thats how I learned about my DSR1.

I'm probably going to dump the DSP and run everything through the head unit. I already fried two tweeters today, and, I think the car is small enough to not really need a DSP. The Taramps sound good, but the output on the DS800X4 is very low for some reason. The DS250X2 is very powerful for it's size. The MD30001 is incredible. Only 1/4 up on the gain and the bass is ridiculous.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Im guessing you blew those tweeters because you haven't figured out the HPF for them. Very easy to do when you don't have an understanding of DSPs. I used bass blockers on my nice tweeters until I got the understanding of my 80prs.

Getting rid of the DSP would be a bad idea. Take your time and do alot of reading about it. You will figure it out.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I blew tweeters too. Don't give up, buy spares. Love the Krystal RCA's, I use them as well.