What sub(s) can hit 150+db in trunk under $350

just get a DD95 series sub or an AQ HDC, and lots and lots of power and be done with it.

from there, it will be nothing more than experimenting. the woofer will mean A LOT less than the install. all you really need is a woofer that can take punishment. you seem to think that there is a huge difference between spl based subs. news flash, there isnt. you arent going to get 1 sub and then switch to a different one and gain 5db.

also i see this all the time...people see "150db" posted up left and right, then right and then left again over and over and over, that they just end up wanting it...never even having experienced a 150db vehicle/install. seems you want nothing more than to be able to say you hit a 150, instead of hearing it first and then being so amazed by it, that now you're trying to replicate it.

 
also i see this all the time...people see "150db" posted up left and right, then right and then left again over and over and over, that they just end up wanting it...never even having experienced a 150db vehicle/install. seems you want nothing more than to be able to say you hit a 150, instead of hearing it first and then being so amazed by it, that now you're trying to accomplish it.
True Statement.....theres no point to have a 150db daily system really....youll never ride around more than 30sec listening to it at 150db....thats darn loud for any normal human

Sure theres the freaks out there that are gonna come back on this and say "I listen to my 150db system all day long"....well........no ya dont

145 would be plenty enough to impress the normal man whos not into car audio

 
True Statement.....theres no point to have a 150db daily system really....youll never ride around more than 30sec listening to it at 150db....thats darn loud for any normal human
Sure theres the freaks out there that are gonna come back on this and say "I listen to my 150db system all day long"....well........no ya dont

145 would be plenty enough to impress the normal man whos not into car audio
All truth here too.

I had a 150+ capable system in my previous vehicle.While it's AWESOME for showing off, it's not that great daily.You'll listen to it at 1/10th of what its capable of, and with the given budget it'll most likely sound like ***.150db is actually painful to most.

145db will impress most people, and some find it uncomfortable.When I "downgraded" to a 18" BTL which was hitting around that range on the mic, most still found it too loud.

 
under my posts it says what im running..and 145 is plenty loud for a daily car..thats where im at and nobody will ride with me with the radio up...But.and this is a big but..once you get where you "wanted" to be you want change..you are never satisfied with what you got or what you set out to achieve..i first wanted to hit around 140 dbs'then i got one orion hp and did that..then i got the sx and im hitting 144-145 on music and im happy but still not satisfied.i doubt this system will last me to the end of the winter..although it is not practical to drive around pumpin 150 db;s it is nice to know that you can and pwn all the lil hoodlums when they pull up to you at a stop light barely breaking 130 and thinkin they got the loudest setup in "da hood"

 
i kno i made a thread about soundstream already but noone seems to have any experience with them.. either do i.. The soundstream T-5 is pretty cheap maybe 150$ per sub... but i heard alot that thier pretty loud and good sounding..

anyone think TWO 12" t-5's are capable (with a "proper" vented box and a "proper" amp for it) could hit around 145db's in a car?

 
I think 150db in a cav trunk is very doable. I would do a 3 10" setup, with around 1500 watts rms to each sub. Your budget for subs is on the extreme low end. If a 150 is what you want you will need $500-$600 for subs, another $1000 for an amp. That is the easy part. You will need to remove the interior of the car and seal up every place where you will lose pressure (doors, firewall, rear deck). You will need to deaden most surfaces especially large non rigid surfaces like the roof and parts of the floor. Fill in large open areas with expanding foam and cover the openings with a rigid cover. Next you will need an electrical system that will support 5000 watts. 4-6 runs of 0 guage, and at least 2 good auxilary batteries, and eventually a high output alternator. As already stated in this thread the most important part is the install. You will need to build at least 3 boxes, more like 5 in the testing process. If you are prepaired to do everything I have mentioned here , a 150db on a termlab is in your reach. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
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