my honest opinion is that something is wired incorrectly. my car would do the same, even shut off at full tilt with the stock alt. you should have enough electo, but the distributor is cutting out from lack of juice. engine light on? last tune up?
Ok I'm all over doing that tomorrow.actually, alternator feeds its field from the stator output after start-up, fyi.......i noticed that you said there were a bunch of 8awg grounds for a 400a system. i believe that is your problem right there. the ground strap from the back of the left head to the firewall is likely toasted by now. at the least, you should have 3 runs of 4awg from the engine to the firewall, or equivalent in other wire size. under 10.5v and your fuel injectors shut off, and ignitor power is weak for the coil. on top of that, you may have damaged the ground runs to the ecu and body, hopefully not internally in the ecu, if this is the case. these trucks can actually run real nice, and be especially good to drive as a manual. only thing i don't really like is the decay rate and small/slow response of the iac valve. normally, if they do give you a problem, you just clean them out with throttle body cleaner and they work like new...... same goes for all of them between then and now. the tps is common to need replacement, and the ignitor around the same time as the fuel pump (100-150k) only real reason to put a carb on it is if you have no means to tune the ecu for whatever engine work you do....... even then, that comes down to lack of know-how, as a tunercat, or efilive/similar tuner is cheaper than a gen2 intake and carb, not to mention you would want to throw a stand-alone ignition in there, like a hei, or aftermarket, as the stock timing advance is done via ecu...... i digress....
long story short: upgrade your engine grounding, and complete the system as a single system, at least in the grounding of everything, and i would suggest you do a pinout from the ecu to grounds/ignitor/block. good luck.
Obd1 so no light.my honest opinion is that something is wired incorrectly. my car would do the same, even shut off at full tilt with the stock alt. you should have enough electo, but the distributor is cutting out from lack of juice. engine light on? last tune up?
91 chevy, yes has light. hope you figure it out. i better leave this one alone.Obd1 so no light.
Right based on obd1 which means light is only on while something is wrong and shuts off when nothing is found to be wrong or problem is fixed. No stored codes as there is no data storage of codes in obd1.91 chevy, yes has light. hope you figure it out. i better leave this one alone.
dude reading the codes on your vehicle is beyond simple. a blind minkey could do it. dont try to pretend like you have a clue what you're talking about. hopefully you didnt install everything yourself cause it'll cost twice as much to fix if you did. put your truck in the shop and let someone who knows what they are doing fix it. no light. your a dumbass. bottom line is your rigged up crap has screwed up the electrical system of your vehicle and needs to be redone by someone who knows what they are doing.Right based on obd1 which means light is only on while something is wrong and shuts off when nothing is found to be wrong or problem is fixed. No stored codes as there is no data storage of codes in obd1.
So. Obd1. No light.
It's unfortunate there's always a ******* in every forum. And apparently your this threads *******. Hey google obd1. I'll let google explain it to you since you know everything. Furthuremore I don't know you but from your posts I can almost certainly install circles around you and have proof of it. From solid plexiglass boxes to 2 state SPL trophies of #1 SPL record and sq record. Also featured in 2 magazines. So please admit when you know nothing of what you post about. Sit back and let the grown folk talk. As I came to this forum for knowledgable advice. Not a ******* who knows nothing about how obd1 codes work and then gets pissy and throws a tantrum on a forum with insults.dude reading the codes on your vehicle is beyond simple. a blind minkey could do it. dont try to pretend like you have a clue what you're talking about. hopefully you didnt install everything yourself cause it'll cost twice as much to fix if you did. put your truck in the shop and let someone who knows what they are doing fix it. no light. your a dumbass. bottom line is your rigged up crap has screwed up the electrical system of your vehicle and needs to be redone by someone who knows what they are doing.
Ah see some kick *** advice.okay, you are both right, and both getting wound up and inferring/commenting above what's being stated...... i would do the beefy runs of ground in the stock location from the back of the head to the stud on the firewall. this gets the engine grounding to the same panel as the floor ground and the battery in the back. i assume the 300a alt has a case ground lug, so i would think about putting a ground from that to the same as the rear of the head, and definitely to the front battery along side the power cable, or alternately ground the front battery to the firewall as well as the alt. basically, you don't want any resistance between any of the alt/battery/amp grounds. if you want to keep the truck battery/alt separate from the system alt/batteries, that is fine, just do it on the positive side, and i would also use the ign. wire that you likely split off from the stock alt to trigger a relay on to have the second alt sense it's own battery power. i, personally, like to keep it as one power system, unless i were to do a 16v system, even then i'd probably just power the body feed from a tractor regulator..
Right based on obd1 which means light is only on while something is wrong and shuts off when nothing is found to be wrong or problem is fixed. No stored codes as there is no data storage of codes in obd1.
So. Obd1. No light.
Doing the grounds and relay now.actually it will store the code w/o the ses/ces light being on all the time....somes codes do,some don't
welcome to the wonderful world of gm tbi....one finicky little fuel injection..
grounds... 1/0 at least...
engine to frame
battery to frame
frame to body
doing this and multiple battery setup only helped the situation,still pulls down at full tilt..
don't think the tbi system can respond fast enough to being loaded that quickly..