the sad reality of my system...

But if the driver blows and you were powering it under the rated power it generally constitutes a defect in the driver, despite how harsh you played it, the warantee would cover it.

If you're playing a driver beyond it's rated power you void the warantee which is all I was stating.

 
Dude, you went this far to get an XXX, I think you should put it to good use. Why don't you want to upgrade your electrical system? Is it a money issue? Cuz you could just get a HO Alt for around 2-$300. And as far as making a new box, isn't really a big deal at all. It can be done in a couple of hrs. Not to sure about the Accord coupe but hondas trunk seem to get bigger and bigger each year. I really doubt you would have to build it in your trunk. But I dunno, never saw the coupe trunk.

Just a thought

 
i listened to a cd of what i consider good bass

tracks this morning... the same cd i listened to

last night in the girlfriends car... and the XXX is

just not something im interested in anymore...

i got one... got to take pics of it and drive around

with it for a few weeks and now im done with it...

hooray for me... i tried the super sub... now i want

something that would be more appropriate for me...

at least i have experience with the sub now...

having a system for daily driving is not worth getting

into electrical upgrades... its a new car and i just dont

want to mess with it that much... and there is no

reason i need more power... 1000 watts is enough...

i just need to find the right sub for the power... and

a sub i can give a proper box to...

maybe if i can get myself an SUV someday ill get into

all that serious car audio stuff... but for now... i just

want it to sound good...

im not against building boxes... in fact i quite like it

and have even acquired a new table saw to make it

easier... the problem isnt the trunk itself but the opening

which just plain sucks... do you hear me honda... your

trunk opening sucks!!!!!!!!!!!! i barely fit the sealed

XXX box through it...

 
ok...seems like you made your mind up already....so I won't try to talk you out of it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Just an FYI, I made a box to fit my opening. My oepening isn't too big at all but I used specs for a smaller opening, fits perfectly and it's still 4 cubes.

How bout something like an IDmax? My friend is selling his and it's mint. Only installed for like 5 months and it's not a daily driver, only drove the car like twice a week if that.

Let me know, he wants around $250ish

 
i woud give a brahma a shot. take a look at the spec sheet you can download at adires page and see how much they reccomend for a sealed brahma. im only giving my 15 900 watts and i am more than pleased with it.

 
ok...seems like you made your mind up already....so I won't try to talk you out of it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Just an FYI, I made a box to fit my opening. My oepening isn't too big at all but I used specs for a smaller opening, fits perfectly and it's still 4 cubes.

How bout something like an IDmax? My friend is selling his and it's mint. Only installed for like 5 months and it's not a daily driver, only drove the car like twice a week if that.

Let me know, he wants around $250ish


do you have your sub facing up and ported to the back???

that was about the only option i could consider to port that

much space...

honestly though... it already feels like im hauling around a dead body...

idmax would be an option... but im still not giving up on 15" just yet...

 
i woud give a brahma a shot. take a look at the spec sheet you can download at adires page and see how much they reccomend for a sealed brahma. im only giving my 15 900 watts and i am more than pleased with it.

what kind of car???

btw... lightbeing... your car is probably of a similar build to mine... overall

how does car audio react in your car???

 
Soundsplinter is basically tc subs. I guess the rl-i is the same sub as the tc3 and the rl-p is slightly modified tc9. I think I would go with the rl-p over the eD A series. Both the 15a and the rl-p use the tc9 motor, but I believe the rl-p has some updates or better features. ...
I think he is right about the TC9 motor being used on the A series from eD. If they do use the same motor then that would be a plus in my book for the SS. What I like most about the A series is how aggressive/punchy it is, the control, and how low it goes. It'd be cool to see a manufacturer building speakers that are very similar in sound and performance to the eD A.

Maybe I'll check the T/S parameters on both and see if they are similar.

 
you know. i still think out of all these drivers, the av is going to be the best performer. its a 15" driver, it is XBL^2 enabled, its a really good price (less than a 12XXX) and it hits the lows like nothing else (better than a tumult at 1kw)

i think 2.2cubes even high 1's is plenty of room. and if you ever get a BIG car, pop it in a TL box and wang away.

you got the perfect amp (dual2 coils) and there is plenty of room for a 2.2 cube box. i almost fit 4cubes in my 1994 cavalier, but i didnt plan for the trunk latch. otherwise id of fitted.

i STRONGLY recommend the AV15.

 
Here are the T/S parameters out of my winisd program. I am assuming they are correct.

Qts: 0.326

Vas: 96.47 L

Fs: 28.8 Hz

Re: 6.770 Ohm

Xmax: 29.1 mm

Z: 4.0 Ohm

Qms: 2.740

Qes: 0.370

SPL 89.98 dB

BL: 30.18069

Dd: 12.43 in

Sd: 124.93 in^2

 
I'm a little skeptical of 29mm of Xmax from the 15A //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

I would email Ben or Jeremy at eD to get the full scoop. They could also help you in designing a box, more than likely.

 
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