Surround was a weak point on the older Z series (at least on the 12s) it was the first thing that always failed for me when I used those parts.I haven’t seen a U in person but on sundowns Instagram that U they just posted today the surround looks pretty tall to me. Not no mega roll.
Sounds decent.its basically a new zv3 with slightly higher fs. Very traditional subwoofer sound signature projected to come out of it geared for normal music. Double stacked motor, pretty small but coil gap is tight. Very small surrounds.
Now turn the ignition on(don't start it) for 1 minutes with the stereo at a moderate volume.. if it drops fast somethings wrongTruck off, bat#1 12.59
Bat#2 12.60
Truck on
Bat#1 14.15
Bat#2 14.19
you are right at the voltage where my sh*t used to be limited at too lmao. So thats your cold voltages, how about hot aka after the alt runs for a while after you drive? Also do voltage drop tests when you are at idle and do them again revved at 1k rpm then again at 2k rpm.Truck off, bat#1 12.59
Bat#2 12.60
Truck on
Bat#1 14.15
Bat#2 14.19
Quick vol settings so you know the volume I played at.Now turn the ignition on(don't start it) for 1 minutes with the stereo at a moderate volume.. if it drops fast somethings wrong
The first numbers were prior to turning it on, 2nd numbers was after a 20min drive to work. What numbers are you at when vehicle is cold/warm and did your numbers get better because of the aftermarket external regulator near the voltage sensor?you are right at the voltage where my sh*t used to be limited at too lmao. So thats your cold voltages, how about hot aka after the alt runs for a while after you drive? Also do voltage drop tests when you are at idle and do them again revved at 1k rpm then again at 2k rpm.
a cold start is when you first fire up the car. After the alt gets hotter, the output starts dropping a bit due to heat and efficiency loss. Thats what i meant with a cold start. A cold start does not mean the car is off, otherwise there would be no "start" in a "cold start" So basically your voltages is pretty constant between cold and hotOk.
The first numbers were prior to turning it on, 2nd numbers was after a 20min drive to work. What numbers are you at when vehicle is cold/warm and did your numbers get better because of the aftermarket external regulator near the voltage sensor?
Truck off (cold)
bat#1 12.59
Bat#2 12.60
Truck on and after a 20min drive
Bat#1 14.15
Bat#2 14.19
Singer is your HO alt brand? the pigtail was for the voltage sensor?a cold start is when you first fire up the car. After the alt gets hotter, the output starts dropping a bit due to heat and efficiency loss. Thats what i meant with a cold start. A cold start does not mean the car is off, otherwise there would be no "start" in a "cold start" So basically your voltages is pretty constant between cold and hot
My car is 14.1 - 14.2 max at a cold start, never saw above that until Singer made me a pigtail connector that got me up to 14.6-14.8.
However my car's ECU fks me over. after 2 mins of driving at anytime i'm under 750 rpm, my alt doesnt even charge. at 1k rpm i get 14.4 - 14.5 and 1.5k rpm i maintain 14.8. Its not the alt or anything else, its just how my vehicle computer is programed to save gas. Literally need to find a guy that can do some ECU tuning. Does the same sh*t with my stock alt too.
I retract numbers above.Quick vol settings so you know the volume I played at.System is setup at Vol 26 max, at 22 is when protect mode starts/volt drop
Vol@16
12.45
about 20 seconds later it dropped to 12.44
Normal?
Singer is your HO alt brand? the pigtail was for the voltage sensor?my voltage sensor is between the bat#1 negative and engine block (which is 1ga wire), same as yours?
I'll rev engine in a bit as well.
dude.... I told you in a post WAAAAY earlier.Nice! I'll look up singer and contact him.
No not eBay. It's a Mechman 270a HO
edit:
Heres my ghetto pic. zipties are till I can get this fixed or find a solution to mount. This is a temp mickeymouse.
PS, I once purchased red and black 0ga but was short on red so red turned into ground. So don't think that red 0ga is going anywhere other than to chasis (about a 14" run).
View attachment 26557283
I tapped the knukonceptz positive terminal and put that sucker in... Volts at 14.6 on cold start.
Truck warmed up and I've been playing at vol 26 with lights on and AC full blast, volts drop as low as 13.97 but a constant 14.09
Mids go into protect mode here and there but bat#2 volts stay the same.
Now, at the amps, they drop to as low as 9.93 (happened once in the 20+ mins of non stop playing). Could it be a ground issue? Should I just ground amps at bat#2?
dude.... I told you in a post WAAAAY earlier.
alt pos and negative run to under the hood bat, then a direct positive and negative run from under the hood to your 2nd batt and all amps directly connected to the 2nd batt AS IN BOTH POS and ground. Everything ran off the 2nd battery. did that fly over your head? lol
All direct runs, fk any chassis grounds all direct runs from front to rear.
i have a run from the alt directly to the rear battery then parallel between the batteries. the alternator directly changes the rear battery and then tee front battery has 4 1/0s to the back.. that way the alts charging potential isn't limited to the batters cables to the rear battery. basically the alt discharges directly to the rear battery and when the alts output is overcome the battery in the front discharges through the 4 1/0 cables instead of trying to charge trough the front battery..dude.... I told you in a post WAAAAY earlier.
alt pos and negative run to under the hood bat, then a direct positive and negative run from under the hood to your 2nd batt and all amps directly connected to the 2nd batt AS IN BOTH POS and ground. Everything ran off the 2nd battery. did that fly over your head? lol
All direct runs, fk any chassis grounds all direct runs from front to rear.
In that case just get rid of the front battery all together and move that battery to the rear.i have a run from the alt directly to the rear battery then parallel between the batteries. the alternator directly changes the rear battery and then tee front battery has 4 1/0s to the back.. that way the alts charging potential isn't limited to the batters cables to the rear battery. basically the alt discharges directly to the rear battery and when the alts output is overcome the battery in the front discharges through the 4 1/0 cables instead of trying to charge trough the front battery..
No space bro. My trunk is just amps. LolIn that case just get rid of the front battery all together and move that battery to the rear.
Its all in a circuit with minimal resistance so it doesnt really matter.
What was important that he needed to run the amps off the 2nd batt and have a direct ground run front to rear. I just had to list an example out because he's pretty lost here.