Sundown U 15 facing up or forward?

[West1 10+ year member]

Tomorrow tell me what your battery is floating at.

Truck off,

bat#1 12.59

Bat#2 12.60

Truck on

Bat#1 14.15

Bat#2 14.19

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I haven’t seen a U in person but on sundowns Instagram that U they just posted today the surround looks pretty tall to me. Not no mega roll.

Surround was a weak point on the older Z series (at least on the 12s) it was the first thing that always failed for me when I used those parts.

its basically a new zv3 with slightly higher fs. Very traditional subwoofer sound signature projected to come out of it geared for normal music. Double stacked motor, pretty small but coil gap is tight. Very small surrounds.

Sounds decent.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Truck off, bat#1 12.59

Bat#2 12.60

Truck on

Bat#1 14.15

Bat#2 14.19

Now turn the ignition on(don't start it) for 1 minutes with the stereo at a moderate volume.. if it drops fast somethings wrong

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Truck off, bat#1 12.59

Bat#2 12.60

Truck on

Bat#1 14.15

Bat#2 14.19

you are right at the voltage where my sh*t used to be limited at too lmao. So thats your cold voltages, how about hot aka after the alt runs for a while after you drive? Also do voltage drop tests when you are at idle and do them again revved at 1k rpm then again at 2k rpm.

 

[West1 10+ year member]

Now turn the ignition on(don't start it) for 1 minutes with the stereo at a moderate volume.. if it drops fast somethings wrong

Quick vol settings so you know the volume I played at.

System is setup at Vol 26 max, at 22 is when protect mode starts/volt drop

Vol@16

12.45

about 20 seconds later it dropped to 12.44

Normal?

you are right at the voltage where my sh*t used to be limited at too lmao. So thats your cold voltages, how about hot aka after the alt runs for a while after you drive? Also do voltage drop tests when you are at idle and do them again revved at 1k rpm then again at 2k rpm.

The first numbers were prior to turning it on, 2nd numbers was after a 20min drive to work. What numbers are you at when vehicle is cold/warm and did your numbers get better because of the aftermarket external regulator near the voltage sensor?

Truck off (cold)

bat#1 12.59

Bat#2 12.60

Truck on and after a 20min drive

Bat#1 14.15

Bat#2 14.19

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Ok.


The first numbers were prior to turning it on, 2nd numbers was after a 20min drive to work. What numbers are you at when vehicle is cold/warm and did your numbers get better because of the aftermarket external regulator near the voltage sensor?

Truck off (cold)

bat#1 12.59

Bat#2 12.60

Truck on and after a 20min drive

Bat#1 14.15

Bat#2 14.19

a cold start is when you first fire up the car. After the alt gets hotter, the output starts dropping a bit due to heat and efficiency loss. Thats what i meant with a cold start. A cold start does not mean the car is off, otherwise there would be no "start" in a "cold start" So basically your voltages is pretty constant between cold and hot

My car is 14.1 - 14.2 max at a cold start, never saw above that until Singer made me a pigtail connector that got me up to 14.6-14.8.

However my car's ECU fks me over. after 2 mins of driving at anytime i'm under 750 rpm, my alt doesnt even charge. at 1k rpm i get 14.4 - 14.5 and 1.5k rpm i maintain 14.8. Its not the alt or anything else, its just how my vehicle computer is programed to save gas. Literally need to find a guy that can do some ECU tuning. Does the same sh*t with my stock alt too.

 

[West1 10+ year member]

a cold start is when you first fire up the car. After the alt gets hotter, the output starts dropping a bit due to heat and efficiency loss. Thats what i meant with a cold start. A cold start does not mean the car is off, otherwise there would be no "start" in a "cold start" So basically your voltages is pretty constant between cold and hot
My car is 14.1 - 14.2 max at a cold start, never saw above that until Singer made me a pigtail connector that got me up to 14.6-14.8.

However my car's ECU fks me over. after 2 mins of driving at anytime i'm under 750 rpm, my alt doesnt even charge. at 1k rpm i get 14.4 - 14.5 and 1.5k rpm i maintain 14.8. Its not the alt or anything else, its just how my vehicle computer is programed to save gas. Literally need to find a guy that can do some ECU tuning. Does the same sh*t with my stock alt too.

Singer is your HO alt brand? the pigtail was for the voltage sensor?

my voltage sensor is between the bat#1 negative and engine block (which is 1ga wire), same as yours?

I'll rev engine in a bit as well.

 

[West1 10+ year member]

Quick vol settings so you know the volume I played at.System is setup at Vol 26 max, at 22 is when protect mode starts/volt drop

Vol@16

12.45

about 20 seconds later it dropped to 12.44

Normal?

I retract numbers above.

I must of placed ohm meter incorrectly.

I played at vol 16 with just key turned and volts started dropping. From 13.3 with car off and they slowly dropped to 12.8, then turned off vehicle my truck.

I keep getting different numbers with my meter.

I turned truck on with music at vol 16 and rev to 1k... first time was 13.10, second time was 12.85 in same meter position.

rev to 2k and numbers went up to 13.22-13.25

I also put meter on bat#2 and had 13.1

placed on amp and it was 12.8

returned o bat#2 and was 13.1

wtf

Going to Pepboys so they can test my Alt

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Singer is your HO alt brand? the pigtail was for the voltage sensor?my voltage sensor is between the bat#1 negative and engine block (which is 1ga wire), same as yours?

I'll rev engine in a bit as well.

Also what brand is your 270 HO alt? Better not be some ebay alt....

 

[West1 10+ year member]

Nice! I'll look up singer and contact him.

No not eBay. It's a Mechman 270a HO

edit:

Heres my ghetto pic. zipties are till I can get this fixed or find a solution to mount. This is a temp mickeymouse.

PS, I once purchased red and black 0ga but was short on red so red turned into ground. So don't think that red 0ga is going anywhere other than to chasis (about a 14" run).

View attachment 26557283

I tapped the knukonceptz positive terminal and put that sucker in... Volts at 14.6 on cold start.

Truck warmed up and I've been playing at vol 26 with lights on and AC full blast, volts drop as low as 13.97 but a constant 14.09

Mids go into protect mode here and there but bat#2 volts stay the same.

Now, at the amps, they drop to as low as 9.93 (happened once in the 20+ mins of non stop playing). Could it be a ground issue? Should I just ground amps at bat#2?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Nice! I'll look up singer and contact him.
No not eBay. It's a Mechman 270a HO

edit:

Heres my ghetto pic. zipties are till I can get this fixed or find a solution to mount. This is a temp mickeymouse.

PS, I once purchased red and black 0ga but was short on red so red turned into ground. So don't think that red 0ga is going anywhere other than to chasis (about a 14" run).

View attachment 26557283

I tapped the knukonceptz positive terminal and put that sucker in... Volts at 14.6 on cold start.

Truck warmed up and I've been playing at vol 26 with lights on and AC full blast, volts drop as low as 13.97 but a constant 14.09

Mids go into protect mode here and there but bat#2 volts stay the same.

Now, at the amps, they drop to as low as 9.93 (happened once in the 20+ mins of non stop playing). Could it be a ground issue? Should I just ground amps at bat#2?

dude.... I told you in a post WAAAAY earlier.

alt pos and negative run to under the hood bat, then a direct positive and negative run from under the hood to your 2nd batt and all amps directly connected to the 2nd batt AS IN BOTH POS and ground. Everything ran off the 2nd battery. did that fly over your head? lol

All direct runs, fk any chassis grounds all direct runs from front to rear.

 

[West1 10+ year member]

dude.... I told you in a post WAAAAY earlier.
alt pos and negative run to under the hood bat, then a direct positive and negative run from under the hood to your 2nd batt and all amps directly connected to the 2nd batt AS IN BOTH POS and ground. Everything ran off the 2nd battery. did that fly over your head? lol

All direct runs, fk any chassis grounds all direct runs from front to rear.

Umm, possibly lol. Ffs, I'll do it later. I need some rest, been working mad hours.

I did leave mid amp at the hood bat. Can I run the mids off the 2nd set of terminals that's oem to battery?

Fk man, I appreciate your patience bro.

Everyone's at that. Ik it gets frustrating explaining things to peeps that don't know to much about the hobby. I feel that way sometimes in the reef forums so ik lol.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

dude.... I told you in a post WAAAAY earlier.
alt pos and negative run to under the hood bat, then a direct positive and negative run from under the hood to your 2nd batt and all amps directly connected to the 2nd batt AS IN BOTH POS and ground. Everything ran off the 2nd battery. did that fly over your head? lol

All direct runs, fk any chassis grounds all direct runs from front to rear.

i have a run from the alt directly to the rear battery then parallel between the batteries. the alternator directly changes the rear battery and then tee front battery has 4 1/0s to the back.. that way the alts charging potential isn't limited to the batters cables to the rear battery. basically the alt discharges directly to the rear battery and when the alts output is overcome the battery in the front discharges through the 4 1/0 cables instead of trying to charge trough the front battery..

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

i have a run from the alt directly to the rear battery then parallel between the batteries. the alternator directly changes the rear battery and then tee front battery has 4 1/0s to the back.. that way the alts charging potential isn't limited to the batters cables to the rear battery. basically the alt discharges directly to the rear battery and when the alts output is overcome the battery in the front discharges through the 4 1/0 cables instead of trying to charge trough the front battery..

In that case just get rid of the front battery all together and move that battery to the rear.

Its all in a circuit with minimal resistance so it doesnt really matter.

What was important that he needed to run the amps off the 2nd batt and have a direct ground run front to rear. I just had to list an example out because he's pretty lost here.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

In that case just get rid of the front battery all together and move that battery to the rear.
Its all in a circuit with minimal resistance so it doesnt really matter.

What was important that he needed to run the amps off the 2nd batt and have a direct ground run front to rear. I just had to list an example out because he's pretty lost here.

No space bro. My trunk is just amps. Lol