Sundown U 15 facing up or forward?

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

This is why I am leaning towards the U series. I know I would like the best of both worlds and if there is a sub that's designed to be the middle man, its got my attention.

If you don't listen u gonna be pissed. Lol the u is like an English on roids. Which s fine but for the monies I'll take the dd 700 all day

 

[West1 10+ year member]

If you don't listen u gonna be pissed. Lol the u is like an English on roids. Which s fine but for the monies I'll take the dd 700 all day

I called around and the price near me is about 349.00 for the DD712's. I do like the box space so these are definitely a possibility. The 812's are 2ohm and I don't want to mess with .5 load to a 1ohm amp. I need to read on Power Burst because the 712's are 3600 Watts and the 3512's are 4800 watts but both have same RMS rating. Yet near double in price. DD specs make my head spin lol. Wtf is VCD, I cant seem to locate terminology via Google.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I called around and the price near me is about 349.00 for the DD712's. I do like the box space so these are definitely a possibility. The 812's are 2ohm and I don't want to mess with .5 load to a 1ohm amp. I need to read on Power Burst because the 712's are 3600 Watts and the 3512's are 4800 watts but both have same RMS rating. Yet near double in price. DD specs make my head spin lol. Wtf is VCD, I cant seem to locate terminology via Google.

if you are buying subs on power ratings alone, you are doing it wrong. Its one of the last things you should even care about Learn what TS parameters are along with overall sub construction. Learn to use winisd bro. RMS does not mean louder, it just means how much power it handles and needs to get loud, nothing more, nothing less. While a sub's overall construction determines efficiency and possible bandwidth which is way more important.

 

[West1 10+ year member]

if you are buying subs on power ratings alone, you are doing it wrong. Its one of the last things you should even care about Learn what TS parameters are along with overall sub construction. Learn to use winisd bro. RMS does not mean louder, it just means how much power it handles and needs to get loud, nothing more, nothing less. While a sub's overall construction determines efficiency and possible bandwidth which is way more important.

Yes, I agree. I tried minimal searches via Google and have had a hard time finding stuff that breaks it down. I have tried using the search engine here but it does not work for me.

With that said, searching T/SParameters has opened many doors for me so TYVM.

Here is one link that breaks stuff down if there is anyone reading the thread that's lacking info like myself.

I am about to clock out an start my battery install so I'll read up tomorrow if I can't get to it tonight.

https://knowledge.sonicelectronix.com/car-audio-and-video/car-subwoofers/t-s-thiele-small-parameters/

WiniSD

http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/WinISD.htm

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

What series Redlines and what kind of power? I've been seriously looking at the Redline 600s for a low powered spl build.

Not sure which, but in the neighborhood of 1000W per sub (rookie class guys). IMO did great for what they are and the power they were getting.

This is why I am leaning towards the U series. I know I would like the best of both worlds and if there is a sub that's designed to be the middle man, its got my attention.

SA series are great performers. Not sure what the U is supposed to be, between the SA and Z?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Yes, I agree. I tried minimal searches via Google and have had a hard time finding stuff that breaks it down. I have tried using the search engine here but it does not work for me.
With that said, searching T/SParameters has opened many doors for me so TYVM.

Here is one link that breaks stuff down if there is anyone reading the thread that's lacking info like myself.

I am about to clock out an start my battery install so I'll read up tomorrow if I can't get to it tonight.

https://knowledge.sonicelectronix.com/car-audio-and-video/car-subwoofers/t-s-thiele-small-parameters/

WiniSD

WinISD

when you have time, finish reading this

http://usenclosure.com/Diffraction%20Graphs/Loudspeaker%20Design%20Cookbook%20-%20Seventh%20Edition%20(Vance%20Dickason).pdf

This is also important car audio related stuff that you should get a general knowledge of as well

GlassWolf's Pages

Make sure you download the older version of winisd, the newer one is wack. Here is the tutorial vid



its basically a new zv3 with slightly higher fs. Very traditional subwoofer sound signature projected to come out of it geared for normal music. Double stacked motor, pretty small but coil gap is tight. Very small surrounds.

 

[Hertz Mafia]

when you have time, finish reading this http://usenclosure.com/Diffraction%20Graphs/Loudspeaker%20Design%20Cookbook%20-%20Seventh%20Edition%20(Vance%20Dickason).pdf

This is also important car audio related stuff that you should get a general knowledge of as well

GlassWolf's Pages

Make sure you download the older version of winisd, the newer one is wack. Here is the tutorial vid

I haven’t seen a U in person but on sundowns Instagram that U they just posted today the surround looks pretty tall to me. Not no mega roll.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I haven’t seen a U in person but on sundowns Instagram that U they just posted today the surround looks pretty tall to me. Not no mega roll.

Did you watch the excursion vid? Sucker is moooooving.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I haven’t seen a U in person but on sundowns Instagram that U they just posted today the surround looks pretty tall to me. Not no mega roll.

Its thinner than a lot of the thicker standard surround subs like alphard, dc audio etc... the 18s is pretty tall, I'm guessing they are maximizing cone area with this particular sub over ridiculous Xmax, though it still has good xmax. I'm a fan of this design already lol. I loved the zv3s and this is supposed to be its little brother

 

[West1 10+ year member]

Installed 2nd bat, everything seems brighter at the dash... still have a voltage drop at amps ffs

I did not run mids to 2nd batt, only sub and one run (dual sky high arrives monday). Raining outside and 3hrs in the rain was long enough.

On my way home, I kept trying to notice lights dim, nothing. Seems volt drop is at the amps.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Installed 2nd bat, everything seems brighter at the dash... still have a voltage drop at amps ffs
I did not run mids to 2nd batt, only sub and one run (dual sky high arrives monday). Raining outside and 3hrs in the rain was long enough.

On my way home, I kept trying to notice lights dim, nothing. Seems volt drop is at the amps.

Need more wire bro

 

[West1 10+ year member]

Need more wire bro

I hope that solves it! Mids goes into protect and sub keeps playing but volts dropped as low as 10.9 (I did not bother reading mids voltage).

I could be wrong but bass sounds more deep.

I'll get volt numbers tomorrow

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I hope that solves it! Mids goes into protect and sub keeps playing but volts dropped as low as 10.9 (I did not bother reading mids voltage).

I could be wrong but bass sounds more deep.

I'll get volt numbers tomorrow

dude looks like your alt is not even working lol. Whats the voltage with you revved up? If you havent done so, install a volt meter in the car with the pos and negs feeding into the amp power and ground

 

[West1 10+ year member]

dude looks like your alt is not even working lol. Whats the voltage with you revved up? If you havent done so, install a volt meter in the car with the pos and negs feeding into the amp power and ground

I hope that's not the case. I have a stinger voltmeter. Had a brainfart when reading instructions for wire going to ignition/power wire (some thing like that). Opened my HU and so many wires and pretty colors... So it's been in the package since lol.

Tbh I don't think it's my alt, I think it's either the sub amp or the 1ga from the voltage sensor (emailed Mechman btw for a regulator or something similar).

Guess who tightened the knukonceptz positive triple 0ga terminal and stripped the screw...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/imdaman.gif.bc6c552e19aa4ad8c47461144f40eb1a.gif

Guess who's a machinist and will tap a new thread size...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/imdaman.gif.bc6c552e19aa4ad8c47461144f40eb1a.gif

Come to think of it, I've got the positive 0ga wires on copper terminals (crimped) on the small screw of the dual g31 battery terminal, could this be the cause? If so, I thought since it's screwed on and I hit both sides of copper terminals witch scotch bright that it would give same results as the normal size battery terminal that will be used tomorrow after new threads.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Tomorrow tell me what your battery is floating at.