Speaker Wobble/Distortion Help?

[FrankTheDeputy]

Hello, here are my specs for intro:

Vehicle: 2017 Subaru Legacy (non-karuma audio)
Door Speakers (4): Kenwood KFC-1666S
Dash Speakers (2): Kenwood Excelon KFC-X3C
Subwoofer: Skar 8" SDR-8 700 Watt
Amp: Skar R350(???)
LOC: Kicker 2 channel
Radio: Factory Headunit

Ive had the door speakers for about 6 months and Ive been experiencing some issues with them. When I do a bass heavy song at a higher volume, its fine for about 5-10 minutes before it starts to wobble like crazy. Its not really distorted, just sounds very wobbly like the cone or magnet cant keep up or something.

Im just looking for a solution. With flat EQ in the radio settings, it delays when the wobble happens. Ive been told that its the voltage. Should I try Bass blockers? A 6 channel amp? Thank you.

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[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Im just looking for a solution. With flat EQ in the radio settings, it delays when the wobble happens. Ive been told that its the voltage. Should I try Bass blockers? A 6 channel amp? Thank you.

Try doing the same test with the sub amplifier off. If it is the voltage as stated, then your charging system is not able to keep up with the demand. When voltage drops too much, you do get distortion from your car audio.

 

[FrankTheDeputy]

Try doing the same test with the sub amplifier off. If it is the voltage as stated, then your charging system is not able to keep up with the demand. When voltage drops too much, you do get distortion from your car audio.

Well, I dont think the sub amp is the cause of it because I just had it installed 2 days ago but as for the door speakers, theyve been doing that thing nearly ever since ive gotten them about 6 or so months ago. I guess its kind of like a distortion. It just sounds like super heavy flanger. If its the headunit, I gotta find some way around it because I dont really want to replace the headunit as its got so many things attached to it. Theres like 100 wires (modern cars smh).

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Well, I dont think the sub amp is the cause of it because I just had it installed 2 days ago but as for the door speakers, theyve been doing that thing nearly ever since ive gotten them about 6 or so months ago. I guess its kind of like a distortion. It just sounds like super heavy flanger. If its the headunit, I gotta find some way around it because I dont really want to replace the headunit as its got so many things attached to it. Theres like 100 wires (modern cars smh).

Got it. Were the Kenwoods installed by a shop? If so, did they mention to you anything about the impedance that was required? I have noticed that OEM speakers tend to be low wattage, so not alot of power is required to get them going. Best way overcome this with aftermarket speakers is for them to be the same impedance as the OEM, and also have a sensetivity of 92db. or higher.
I see the Kenwoods are 30w RMS, so you are in the ballpark. They are 4 Ohms, so now we need to know the impdance of the OEM speakers. If they are 2 Ohms, then you are pushing the radio with the higher resistance.

 

[FrankTheDeputy]

Got it. Were the Kenwoods installed by a shop? If so, did they mention to you anything about the impedance that was required? I have noticed that OEM speakers tend to be low wattage, so not alot of power is required to get them going. Best way overcome this with aftermarket speakers is for them to be the same impedance as the OEM, and also have a sensetivity of 92db. or higher.
I see the Kenwoods are 30w RMS, so you are in the ballpark. They are 4 Ohms, so now we need to know the impdance of the OEM speakers. If they are 2 Ohms, then you are pushing the radio with the higher resistance.

 

[FrankTheDeputy]

I actually installed them myself, it was pretty simple. Just a simple adapter is all and you just plug it in. I think youre onto something tho with the impendance. I researched a bit but couldnt find the impendance of the orjgjnal speakers. I had already thrown them away as well due to how cheap they were. Maybe i could tweak the impendance of the door speakers then?

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Maybe i could tweak the impendance of the door speakers then

Only way would be to add a 4 Ohms resistor across the terminals. Although I do not know if that would work, being that impedance is dynamic. If it turns out the OEM speakers are also 4 Ohms, your best bet would be to get speakers with a higher sensibility, or get a full range amp.

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

I have no idea what wobbly means; I've never heard a speaker I would describe as wobbly.

If you're blasting the hell out of the HU to keep up with the subwoofer, that probably has something to do with it. Is there an OEM amp? Is the HU 2 ohm stable? You might check a Subaru forum to see what the specs of your stereo are.

Are you using the bass blockers with the dash speakers?

Were/how were the OEM speakers crossed over?

Is there a reason you're running 2 sets of co-axials speakers up front?

 

[FrankTheDeputy]

I have no idea what wobbly means; I've never heard a speaker I would describe as wobbly.

If you're blasting the hell out of the HU to keep up with the subwoofer, that probably has something to do with it. Is there an OEM amp? Is the HU 2 ohm stable? You might check a Subaru forum to see what the specs of your stereo are.

Are you using the bass blockers with the dash speakers?

Were/how were the OEM speakers crossed over?

Is there a reason you're running 2 sets of co-axials speakers up front?

I dont think theres an OEM amp. The volume goes from 0 to 63. The sound starts if i play it at around 52 volume. Between 59 and 63 volume, the volume increases much more drastically. The difference between volume 59-63 is much greater than the difference between 30-45 for example. Some kind of boosting mechanic. The dash speakers are coaxial because it was the most popular pick according to crutchfield. The dash speakers or "tweeters" (i think) came with a 2 pack of capacitors which i believe act as bass blockers. I have not used the capacitors. The door speakers are at fault for wobble tho. Not sure how the dash and door speakers were "crossed over". Is there an issue with running coaxial speakers as tweeters? They sound good to me unless Im ignorant here and missing the point. Im admittly not that knowledgable in car speakers, so I allowed crutchfield to essentially guide the way. Their text support stated that I likely had to amp the door speakers because they are rated for 300W but the headunit gives 10W at best. The voltage coming from the HU doesnt help either apparently.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

I allowed crutchfield

With this said, you are good on the impedance. Crutchfield has a massive car audio knowledge base.

I dont think theres an OEM amp. The volume goes from 0 to 63. The sound starts if i play it at around 52 volume. Between 59 and 63 volume, the volume increases much more drastically. The difference between volume 59-63 is much greater than the difference between 30-45

It all makes sense now. Most radios start to have quality output issues past 75% of their volume. In your case it would be ~48.

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

With this said, you are good on the impedance. Crutchfield has a massive car audio knowledge base.

It all makes sense now. Most radios start to have quality output issues past 75% of their volume. In your case it would be ~48.

Crutchfield also has a massive amount of idiots working there.

He's running 2 ohms on the front channels. Maybe the HU is 2 ohm stable, maybe not; I'd guess not. Probably getting 14wrms/channel from the HU (@ 4ohms).

Typical base level OEM system is a crap midbass in the door and a crap tweeter high passed ~4khz at 6db in the dash. Was the HP cap pulled with the dash speaker or does it remain in the OEM wiring? Check a Subaru forum and they'll probably know.

350wrms amp, so I think voltage is probably okay. Nevertheless, I'd try pulling the fuse to the amp as a troubleshooting step.

 

[FrankTheDeputy]

Crutchfield also has a massive amount of idiots working there.

He's running 2 ohms on the front channels. Maybe the HU is 2 ohm stable, maybe not; I'd guess not. Probably getting 14wrms/channel from the HU (@ 4ohms).

Typical base level OEM system is a crap midbass in the door and a crap tweeter high passed ~4khz at 6db in the dash. Was the HP cap pulled with the dash speaker or does it remain in the OEM wiring? Check a Subaru forum and they'll probably know.

350wrms amp, so I think voltage is probably okay. Nevertheless, I'd try pulling the fuse to the amp as a troubleshooting step.

Maybe I should mention that the 350wrms amp is strictly for the Skar SDR-8. I was not aware that stock HU have trouble past 75% volume. The Kenwood KFC-1666S for whatever reason wont handle whatever bass that the HU is putting out past 75% volume. Not a clue why. Id hate to try and work around getting a new HU.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Maybe I should mention that the 350wrms amp is strictly for the Skar SDR-8. I was not aware that stock HU have trouble past 75% volume. The Kenwood KFC-1666S for whatever reason wont handle whatever bass that the HU is putting out past 75% volume. Not a clue why. Id hate to try and work around getting a new HU.

It is not that the 1666s can not handle the power; It is that the radio can not push them to where you want them to. This is inherent in even aftermarket headunits. The amp section is 15-20 RMS watts per channel for most. Any voltage past those 20 watts is pushing the limits of clean output.
No need to replace the headunit. There are many amps with built in LOC to make installation easier. There are also kits called Add An Amp that make splicing a snap. Of course you would still have to run wires to the speakers, or if you're feeling froggy, you can cut the wires that go to those speakers and splice in there.

 

[FrankTheDeputy]

It is not that the 1666s can not handle the power; It is that the radio can not push them to where you want them to. This is inherent in even aftermarket headunits. The amp section is 15-20 RMS watts per channel for most. Any voltage past those 20 watts is pushing the limits of clean output.
No need to replace the headunit. There are many amps with built in LOC to make installation easier. There are also kits called Add An Amp that make splicing a snap. Of course you would still have to run wires to the speakers, or if you're feeling froggy, you can cut the wires that go to those speakers and splice in there.View attachment 45058

I really like the direction that this is headed. Would you be so kind to clarify for me tho? It looks to me like a regular LOC. I tap the LOC wires into my headunit like i did with my kicker LOC and then I have RCA outputs....but where do I run RCA to if the speakers themselves are T-plugs or whatever? Just curious how I could do that. I feel like im missing something here. Do you have a video or wiring diagram for this concept? Thank you.

 

[FrankTheDeputy]

Ok wait... the amp that I have is 350wrms. Could I run speaker wires from that (2 channel) and run it to the speakers if I reduce the watt in between the amp and the speakers?