Setting up 4 way active.

Aaaaa **** it!! I'm going back to stock //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif

LOL

both 2way and 3 ways have their own advantages....but to get a two way right normally costs allot of money and extensive fabrication...were as a 3way IMO is a little easier....

 
LOL
both 2way and 3 ways have their own advantages....but to get a two way right normally costs allot of money and extensive fabrication...were as a 3way IMO is a little easier....
Well my set up will be pretty stock looking actually. Plan to use the factory kicks for the midrange and tweeter, or the tweeter in the factory sail spot and mids in the doors. Backstrap is my friend. I figure it's a good place to start anyway. If it's not good enough, well then this little SQ wagon will have to undergo some fabulous fabrication. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif

 
And if you think tunning a horn setup and making it sound natural is easier than tunning a 3way setup with traditional drivers...your crazy
yea. i will agree with you there. it can be harder to fit horns into a given ride than install a 3way setup.

and it is really tricky to tune the system with stereo 1\3 octave EQ.

but i have an RTA so its not terribly hard //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
So for domes I've been looking into:

DLS IR3

Dayton RS52AN-8

Dyn MD140/2

Usher 9845

Aura ns3

They will be mounted in the factory kicks off axis right up against the firewall. Midbass is Lotus Ref and tweets are Dyn MD100's.

I keep reading over and over that a low playing midrange is the most ideal because this is where most of the music is. Any other reason??

 
So for domes I've been looking into:
DLS IR3

Dayton RS52AN-8

Dyn MD140/2

Usher 9845

Aura ns3

They will be mounted in the factory kicks off axis right up against the firewall. Midbass is Lotus Ref and tweets are Dyn MD100's.

I keep reading over and over that a low playing midrange is the most ideal because this is where most of the music is. Any other reason??

yes...yes...yes

you want you midrange driver to play as much bandwidth as possible...and you want your midbass to play just that...midbass...antyhing above that is directional and your able to localize

 
yes...yes...yes
you want you midrange driver to play as much bandwidth as possible...and you want your midbass to play just that...midbass...antyhing above that is directional and your able to localize
Anything above what frequency would you say is locatable??

And am I right that I want to get the midrange as far away as possible?

Thanks a lot for your advice!!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
lower male vocals extend into the 300-200hz range...so the key is to have your midbasses xoverd as low as possible...but getting a dome or small driver to do that is hard unless you fork up the bucks for a Be 3w2...so get them to play as low as you possibly can with out break up..

also I can't stress the importance to minimize PLD's...and get them as far and as ide as you can

hope this helps

 
lower male vocals extend into the 300-200hz range...so the key is to have your midbasses xoverd as low as possible...but getting a dome or small driver to do that is hard unless you fork up the bucks for a Be 3w2...so get them to play as low as you possibly can with out break up..
also I can't stress the importance to minimize PLD's...and get them as far and as ide as you can

hope this helps
Did you mean midrange? I want to get the HP on my midrange driver low enough to cover those lower vocals in the 200-300 range, correct?

Would it also be preferable to get the HP on the midbasses as low as I can too?? Or doesn't that really matter.

 
Did you mean midrange? I want to get the HP on my midrange driver low enough to cover those lower vocals in the 200-300 range, correct?
Would it also be preferable to get the HP on the midbasses as low as I can too?? Or doesn't that really matter.

a good starting point for most drivers in most cars...is having tweeter playing 20-3K midrange playing from 3-150ish but with domes and small drivers more like 3-250ish and midbass playing from were you left off with the midrange and playing into the 60-40hz range..

The idea is to have as much freq range played infront of you as you can...this eliminates the localization of your subbass which tends to draw your stage back..plus subs have a hard time playing the tonal differences in the lower midbass and upper bass that a smaller driver can do with ease...

hope this helps

 
midrange playing from 3-150ish but with domes and small drivers more like 3-250ish
Know of any midrange driver capable of this other than the DLS domes and that $600 ATC //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif that can be had at a fairly reasonable price. [holds breath and crosses fingers]

 
Know of any midrange driver capable of this other than the DLS domes and that $600 ATC //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif that can be had at a fairly reasonable price. [holds breath and crosses fingers]
Move up to a 4", and dabble away at DIY and autosound drivers...you can get decent ~-250hz and up out of most 4's IB I would think...matter a fact I'm trying some Profi 4's this weekend If i can pick up a 701 today locally...

Before you modify anything...its very easy to make a baffle in the kick area and angle them with aluminum strappin...even a cylinder shaped enclosure made of mdf rings with a sealed back will get you best response...we are talking 2-3" ddepth and you can strap'm /position them along the firewall/footwell area

 
3's...the only one I know of would be the 3w2...Ron Baker had is playing down to 150 and it did it effortlessly with no coloration...

allot of 4's should come close...the scan 4 I know for sure would do low 200's high 100's

then almost any decent 5 should be able to do it

 
Move up to a 4", and dabble away at DIY and autosound drivers...you can get decent ~-250hz and up out of most 4's IB I would think...matter a fact I'm trying some Profi 4's this weekend If i can pick up a 701 today locally...
Before you modify anything...its very easy to make a baffle in the kick area and angle them with aluminum strappin...even a cylinder shaped enclosure made of mdf rings with a sealed back will get you best response...we are talking 2-3" ddepth and you can strap'm /position them along the firewall/footwell area
How low do you have the Ushers??

And, thanks for the tips fellas //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/woot.gif.aaa6090e619a97b6090d16dd863c5a69.gif I'm goona be poor //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

3w2 = Focal Be driver??

 
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