Seeking Simple Wisdom

i have a 12w0v3 that i experimented with cause im home bored..but anyways i have a small suv and all i can say is the jl recommended ported box sucks......even when i put it in a small compact car it sucks...well unless u like bass centered to like 45hz and up but it does sound nice in a over size 3.5 tuned @ 28hz tuned box i use for a home theater set up :)
 
i have a 12w0v3 that i experimented with cause im home bored..but anyways i have a small suv and all i can say is the jl recommended ported box *****......even when i put it in a small compact car it *****...well unless u like bass centered to like 45hz and up but it does sound nice in a over size 3.5 tuned @ 28hz tuned box i use for a home theater set up :)
I really enjoy messing around with stuff/ trying different things out.Deff keeps you occupied
 
He wouldn't, I just use prefabs as an example of ported performance. You can make them better, but the entire point is to get the resonance in the range you desire. In the case of a prefab it's usually 35hz because that allows cheap systems to sound deeper than their power ratings would imply, regardless of the quality. The failure of prefabs is mainly in the construction quality, there's a lot of losses, it's not sealed very well, there's no bracing, the box vibrates, it doesn't contour to a trunk because it's generic. Each of these things contributes to less volume overall compared to a well made ported box with the purpose in mind.

You can, but at what frequency are you choosing? You choose the frequency based on the shortcomings of the rest of your system, no? Point being that ported isn't the best box type to get the widest range of frequencies at a high quality. If you were to watch a sub in slow motion in two different enclosures, ported and sealed, the ported will return to center slower than the same model subwoofer will in a sealed enclosure. This means fast and deep music like hard style techno would be sloppier, whereas the sealed would give you the best chance of those beats sounding concise as intended by the song. The quality of a ported exists in lower tones predominately unless tuned to a higher tone specifically, but then you risk a lack of dampening on lower notes so you're once again stuck choosing a frequency to shine.

I've built ported enclosures. They do what they do best.

Yes, if you have a single vehicle (he does not) and the means and the know-how, you can peak in a productive range with ported chosen for the cab, but the other speakers are still the more important determinant factor in what range you want to aim within and ported is still limited to lower ranges unless you want to lose a lot of volume at lower frequencies in order to avoid bottoming out the driver (under dampened).

Not sure what you mean about the SPL sub, but a cheap poorly designed driver is bad in either, maybe you'd be correct to say it's worse in sealed enclosures because venting isn't as productive in a sealed environment and the coils will get hotter per watt. Higher frequencies also tend to be more noticeably bad when they are, hence why most multi-channel amplifiers aren't class D, so assuming your ported enclosure is tuned not to under dampen it's less obvious that you have a so-so sub.

Instrumentals don't produce the 35hz synth beats that rap music does, a kick drum is often the lowest note, which is anywhere from 50-100hz. Bass guitars by contrast are quite a bit higher in most songs, like 80-250. More noise than sealed, in which half the output is lost and the dampening also detracts from the excursion. Ported enclosures are louder than sealed at every frequency just by allowing air to move rather than simply compress.

Great as in broad range I suppose, if there's a subwoofer included in the car it's likely 8" or 10" and struggles with lower tones, but does a decent job at higher tones. If you can leave the mid-bass up to the Bose, you'll be able to add in a strong well-tuned ported subwoofer to fill in the only part of the music that you're missing. If however they didn't have a standard subwoofer included then they'd want an enclosure capable of mid-bass. If you're listening to instrumental music then 35hz is less important than mid-bass, particularly if there's a dip where the mid-bass belongs or there's an under-dampened sub trying to produce it.

Ain't no thing but a chicken wing.

Too much to pick apart in all that but there is a lot of false information in there.

The way you posts tells me you're not an experienced box designer.

Ported designs for sq with wide bandwidth and low group delay are absolutely feasible if you know what you're doing.
 
i have a 12w0v3 that i experimented with cause im home bored..but anyways i have a small suv and all i can say is the jl recommended ported box *****......even when i put it in a small compact car it *****...well unless u like bass centered to like 45hz and up but it does sound nice in a over size 3.5 tuned @ 28hz tuned box i use for a home theater set up :)
that just means your car acoustics has a 45hz peak resonance and you need to have a lower tuned box to flatten out the frequency response. Its totally a design issue with your ported box, dont blame the style of the box if its not done right.
 
Ported designs for sq with wide bandwidth and low group delay are absolutely feasible if you know what you're doing.

Always happy to learn. I do believe you are more experienced than me in that regard, so I'll trust you on that. Do you mind PMing or posting an example or at least the process? Because from every design I've ever seen it seems to struggle obtaining a wide bandwidth extending above 100hz while maintaining the speed and clarity I expect from sealed.

I'd much prefer you actually going point by point ripping my comment to shreds though. I promise I won't give a cunty "Idk but you're wrong" response for putting in the time to do that.
 
general assumptions about box design types without factoring in cabin gain is dangerous. Without a proper loading wall you will get absolutely no bass. Massive cancellation issues in a truck, going sealed is pretty much bass *******. The type of woofer used has to match with it too. The Theile small parameters used to calculated the efficiency bandwidth product will tell you if the sub can thrive in a ported or sealed or 4th order or 6th order or 1/4 wave transmission line etc... Not every sub will sound good in a sealed, in fact most higher powered subs nowadays hot on the market are absolute garbage in sealed(extremely stiff suspension, high FS, high motorforce aka BL, low QTS high EBP and some sealed boxspecific subs (softer suspension, lower FS, shorting rings higher QTS, low EBP etc...)

Sealed box would only work in one of his cars. while it'll be completely and utterly useless in the truck. Anyone that's tried a sealed box in a truck knows how finicky the cabin gain works with no real loading walls.

That all sounds accurate, but I don't think I made any assumptions about sealed other than that it won't be nearly as powerful. Seems like you're saying the same with the caveat that it might be acceptable in the SUV? Yeah I suppose I shouldn't have ignored the choice in subwoofer, obviously it has to be designed with sealed in mind or with specs that don't rule it out, same goes for ported and the others you mentioned, fair point. On a side note, what box type do you recommend for trucks usually to avoid those issues?
 
Wow, this has sparked a LOT of info that's mostly over my head, right/wrong and some perhaps irrelevant for my intent & purposes.

While I truly appreciate reading and learning from everyone's discussion, I wanted to restate my original question (or at least what I meant). I'm not a car audio "guy" meaning that I would ever consider myself in the same ball park as you folks (which is why I came here and appreciate your advice).

I originally purchased the sub (which I "think" should be the main deciding factor for most of these questions/decisions) to fit underneath the rear seat of my old F-150 Crew Cab which did NOT have good speakers, but I never got around to building a box for it.

When I recently ran across it still new in the box, I thought "I should either use it or sell it". So that's when I found this forum and asked for what I (mistakenly) thought would be a fairly simple and realistic project. I don't listen to a lot of deep low bass rap so I'm not looking for extremely loud/deep bass, but rather better sounding general contemporary country & classic rock with a little more punch than stock speakers. The Escape is a Titanium package with a Sony stereo, and the F-350 is a Lariat with a somewhat upgraded speaker system which includes either a 6"' or 8" sub in a plastic box mounted to the floor behind the rear passenger seat.

I understand what you're saying about trucks can be sound damping and difficult to get great sound at better volume levels, and I don't "have to" make a single solution for both vehicles, again that was my original thought assuming that it would be feasible and worth the money & effort.

So, aside from the stock/after-market head units and rca's/LOC's, is a single box even worth it at all for both vehicles, or should I simply focus on one or the other? If so, I drive the Escape most often.
 
Also, does this help?
21647
 
Build that design, it will accomplish what you are looking for.

Switching to a round port will make the build easier to cut and assemble. (6 sides and 2 holes)

You can even go to your local lumber store and have them cut the wood to your dimensions so all you have to do is assemble it.
 
Build that design, it will accomplish what you are looking for.

Switching to a round port will make the build easier to cut and assemble. (6 sides and 2 holes)

You can even go to your local lumber store and have them cut the wood to your dimensions so all you have to do is assemble it.
Ill agree along with this.. I mean. Its a 300 watt sub.. and maybe 150-200 rms of true RMS amp power. He is not looking to shake windows out of the truck and looking for a simple enclosure that adds some kind a of bass to the vehicle rather than what he has. I say do it and get busy man. Run IT!
 
Will do. Would it matter or perhaps improve things if I put peg feet on each corner so that the sub & port are on the bottom shooting toward the floor?
 
Will do. Would it matter or perhaps improve things if I put peg feet on each corner so that the sub & port are on the bottom shooting toward the floor?
I have never understood why one would think that firing into the Floor or carpeting would Result in great or even moderate bass results.Ive never Liked down firing. Loss of Acoustics and Out put/ no Wave travel
 
Will do. Would it matter or perhaps improve things if I put peg feet on each corner so that the sub & port are on the bottom shooting toward the floor?

If you choose to do so, research the concept of "skirt area" which is used in home theatre building. Its basically the calculation to determine the necessary height to raise the box to allow for the proper skirt area for a downfiring box design to avoid choking airflow.

That being said I would NEVER downfire in a car audio environment, you are just asking for all sorts of trouble and significant lost output.
 
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