RF Power Series T112D2 Blowing Amps?

[matt_bennett05 10+ year member]

Also, if you do find out that it was the amps all along, check your batts for dead cells If you can, load test yourself, or take to auto parts house and have them check it. Not supplying enough juice to an amp can kill it.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I'm realizing that more and more my friend. Thank you.

Its not just you. People recommend low end stuff everyday on here without looking at the big picture.

 

[its10v1 10+ year member]

Also, if you do find out that it was the amps all along, check your batts for dead cells If you can, load test yourself, or take to auto parts house and have them check it. Not supplying enough juice to an amp can kill it.

I'm thinking I'll head to Autozone (less than a mile from my house) to load test my battery.

Its not just you. People recommend low end stuff everyday on here without looking at the big picture.

Seemingly it's a disease that spreads like rust..

 

[its10v1 10+ year member]

***LOTS OF IMAGES***

PHONES AND SLOW COMPUTERS BEWARE!!

Fuse holder assembled

Fuse connector #1 (Coming from power connection)

Appears to have discoloration inside of it (that maroon-ish/purple stuff inside.)

Fuse connector#2 (Leading away from power connection towards the trunk.)

Ground cable! (No discoloration, no cracks/splits/nicks in the shielding.)

Power connection wire! This wire is "Brand X Soft Rubber 4 GA Primary Wire"

(Where Fuse connector #1 was attached.)

Main power wire (Long stretch from Fuse connector #2 to the trunk)

Shows discoloration(My guess is from the tape) and my finger nail is at the beginning of a slit.

Said slit doesn't go deep enough to touch wire from what I can see/feel.

Main power wire

Showing the same spot as above image.

Main power wire

Spot on left hasn't been shown, spot on right is from the two above images.

Main power wire

Shown is a slightly discolored area that is hard to see.

(No tape residue to cause the discoloration, seemingly this is discoloration inside the wire.)

Focus on the right end of the wire, then look towards the left.

The right is obviously blue, The middle and left parts appear blue-green-ish to my eye.

Main power wire

Same spot, moved slightly left.

Showing slight discoloration.

More pics in next post. Silly image limit...

 

[its10v1 10+ year member]

Main power wire

Same spot as above, further left on wire

Captured is a fully discolored section.

Main power wire

Same spot as above two, again slightly to the left, discoloration fades.

Fully normal wire color on left end of wire in this picture.

Main power wire

Different spot.

Showing a gap in discoloration (Middle of wire, top and bottom edges are discolored.)

Main power wire

Bottom edge of above image.

Main power wire

Same spot as above, turned slightly to show the discoloration gaps.

(Top edge of first image of this spot.)

Main power wire

Different, yet similar spot. Very distinct discoloration.

Ground spot (Seat Support, Unused bolt/nut, put it to use.)

Ground spot (Shown is how the ground would be bolted in.)

That concludes my images at the moment. Speculation/criticism is welcome.

Thanks in advance. :smile:

In conclusion, I found no spots where my power could have been grounding. (The slit does not penetrate deep enough to tough the wire.)

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Your blue wire looks like some cheap audiopipe cca, but I still suspect you are setting the gain too high with cheap amps.

A lot of those low end amps are rated for 1 ohm operation but it strongly decreases the life of the amp when its run that low.

 

[its10v1 10+ year member]

Your blue wire looks like some cheap audiopipe cca, but I still suspect you are setting the gain too high with cheap amps.
A lot of those low end amps are rated for 1 ohm operation but it strongly decreases the life of the amp when its run that low.

I didnt use a DMM to set my gains, I did however set them sparingly. The Audiobahn amp was set at 1/2 gain for the first two weeks I had it, I backed it off to 1/3 because my lights we almost completely out when the bass hit. The Kole amp on the other hand was set at 1/3 gain from the moment I got it (lights were barely dimming and was getting more bass from it,) yet it only lasted two days and approximately 2-3hrs of play time at most. Looks like I'll be in the market for an amp.

 

[its10v1 10+ year member]

Also just got back from having my battery load tested at AutoZone, battery has a cell going bad. Tech told me that leaving my car set for a week, it won't start from the battery, but since I start my car every day, the problem isn't eminent.

Woot Post #200 !

E-ween grows stronger, it does. [speaking like yoda, I am.]

 

[2Dcore 10+ year member]

Noob,Ha okay? Believe what you want. I don't have to go anywhere.

 

[2Dcore 10+ year member]

Did you not read what i said? Yes i did put it in my ride after he blow 3 amps with-in days. So it blow my amp to and had to send out for repair

 

[denim 5,000+ posts]

2Dcore, you manage Audio Connection in Pasadena? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

Back on topic, one thing no one has really addressed is that the position of the gain knob really means nothing, as gain pots are different from amplifier to amplifier.

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

quit buying ****** equipment..problem solved

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

horrible equipment +horrible install= blowing **** up

 

[kSwift 10+ year member]

Do you have a fuse in your fuse holder? I don't see it...

 

[its10v1 10+ year member]

Do you have a fuse in your fuse holder? I don't see it...

The Audio shop said they tested it, it was bad, so they threw it away...

Come to think of it, I'm not sure I have another laying around..

Derp dala derpderp. They must'ta wanted me to buy their stuff.. sales sharks. Screw it, Gonna get a different Fuse holder. AGU's aren't stocked in my area 60 is the highest they're available at the stores I remember going to, even recently thinking about upgrading since the audiobahn had 30A x 3 fuses.. maybe it was being under powered.. I only had a 60A fuse.

I remember seeing MAX/MAXI? of like 80A-100A (The large blade fuses. Fuse holder kits were seperate, and only included a 30A.) Wonder if ANL fuse holders are cheaper and/or more oriented towards car audio. Seems questing is needed. Price check on prune juice bob.. price check on prune juice. (Ferngully reference. OT, sry.)

Wire comparison.. Seems my Power Connection Wire # 2 is the closest to true 4GA that I have.

L to R: Navy blue-ish Brand X wire (Power connection # 1) is 1'4"(before Fuse holder,) Dark Brown/Light Blackish ground wire and is 2'1", Power connection wire # 2 (Pictured with the discoloration) is 9'4", Dark Blue 4GA Wire (DB Link wire pictured below) (Used for Amp - to - VC2 is 12'6", and Finally the first 4GA Wire I ever bought. This last wire was used for Amp + to + VC1 ( 10'9" run), jumpers for VC1 + to + VC2, as well as VC2 - to - VC1 (2x Short 2' long ea. runs.)

^ Could any of the wire differences cause an amps audio outputs to cook/blow?

Thanks in advance for input.

DB Link 4GA wire mentioned above, it's a 12'6" run.

*Also have (Not pictured,) 2x 12'6" 1/0GA runs, 1 crimped ring term on 1 end of each run, that I got from outsideshot23 quite some time ago, I haven't mentioned it yet because I'm saving it for doing big 3 when I get a H.O alt, and a better battery.

Grr Grr Grr.. Last smoke before bed. Stuff to look at when I get up. Q_Q

Thanks again to everyone for input.