I will reply to this thread this one time, and once only. It should clear up any confusion and address some key points.
Now tell me, what IS the YOLO a copy of exactly?
If it's a copy, why does it cost $2,000 less? Is DD giving you an **** fisting when you buy a Z or is it not a copy? Why can't you take Z soft parts and use them on a YOLO motor? Is it because the coil won't fit? I mean, if it was a copy, you could do that, right? So to summarize, it doesn't look the same, parts don't fit, and costs 1/3 of the price. So how is it a copy?
Does it seem kind of wrong to call out EMF for not listing it and not passing judgement on the other companies that don't either? Bottom line is we're honest about why, and on the YOLO line there are many variables in how it's built which would give different parameters. They are built to your purpose, so there is no "standard" configuration on the SPL version, the musical one has a standard configuration but can still have variables.
Show everybody where you can buy those motors (that you think are the same) for $200, please. Then they will see what you're referring to is $280, not $200, and while you're at it, go ahead and contact them and say you want one and you need a shipping quote. Suddenly that $280 motor (again not $200) turns into a $530 motor because it's gonna be $250 to ship it. Don't believe me? Ask.
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Document where at any time I've said what I sell is "the best ever". No different than every other sub in it's class? Name 3 other subs that have 50 mm xmax one way (that's 4" peak to peak) that is a 4" coil. 3 should be easy because they're all the same, right? Better yet, name 1. I can name 1, and the Ermagerd came out well before it did. Does any other sub have 16 tinsel leads? Nope. Does it have dual inputs per polarity per coil? Nope.Sean is a huge douche that will tell someone what he sells is the best ever. There is nothing about his subs that make them any different than every other sub in its class. If you think there is please share, I'm all ears.
Of course it's inefficient, at no point in time was it ever claimed to be efficient. Now why wouldn't I make it efficient? Are you familiar with Hoffman's Iron Law? I'm guessing you aren't because if you were you wouldn't have made such an ignorant statement. So you did some drop in swap testing, cool. Now why did you do a drop in swap between other subs that aren't in the same class and also don't have near the same box requirement? I can gaurentee you the box you had it in was wrong, it didn't have enough volume or port area. I'm not even worried about seeing any proof that the swap actually happened (I have my doubts). You say it got stinky but did it blow? Was it new? Was it damaged after "getting stinky"? If it was fine after whatever you put on it, what does it matter? Furthermore, they'll do that when you clip them. It looks like you already had an idea in your head before you played it so why wouldn't you drive it into clipping to have something else to complain about?The EMF Ermagerd is an inefficient POS. Drop in it lost to: Sundown Nightshade V2, FI BTL N3, SHOK TSX, Rockford TRF with tantric soft parts, and another one I cant remember. This is all in a daily/spl build. Same impedances, same power.
Oh and it got stinky faster than all but the Nightshade.
NOT worth the money at all.
Yolo, I think we all know what that is a copy of.
Now tell me, what IS the YOLO a copy of exactly?
If it's a copy, why does it cost $2,000 less? Is DD giving you an **** fisting when you buy a Z or is it not a copy? Why can't you take Z soft parts and use them on a YOLO motor? Is it because the coil won't fit? I mean, if it was a copy, you could do that, right? So to summarize, it doesn't look the same, parts don't fit, and costs 1/3 of the price. So how is it a copy?
Where was it proven to fail? There seems to be more proof they don't. People that have them are happy with them, they don't come back for warranty claims, and every direct swap I'm aware of from people who bought them said they gained in both output and sound quality. Prime example with Noah's Trailblazer. He gained 2 dB and said it sounds WAY better, he swapped DC Level 6's to Ermagerd's, same power. Isn't the LVL 6 supposed to be "in the same class"?What makes it the God of woofers? Enlighten us all.
---------- Post added at 08:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:05 PM ----------
It's already been proven to fail.
As stupid as the reason may be, they're true. I'm sorry the truth doesn't make you happy. But since you bring up not listing t/s parameters and it's a big deal, allow me to point out a few other things.Say someone on the forum is a douche and they're selling some good subs for a little more money than you want to pay. Do you really want to deal with buying the subs from them?
How was customer service? I don't like the fact that they don't put t/s parameters on their site. Here's a quote:
"We will not list theile-small parameters for 2 reasons. First, being built specifically for you, specs will change from sub to sub. Secondly, those parameters are often used to compare performance of one sub to another when the specs are not properly understood so inaccurate comparisons are made. Furthermore enclosure simulation software can be extremely misleading and make very inaccurate recommendations."
Umm.. really? Both reasons he gave are stupid
---------- Post added at 06:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:09 PM ----------
I'm not on SMD. Its gay
- Z Series | DD Audio DD doesn't list specs
- Tantric SubWoofers Tantric doesn't list specs
- American Bass - VFL- COMP 1511 American Bass doesn't list specs
- woofers RE doesn't list specs
Does it seem kind of wrong to call out EMF for not listing it and not passing judgement on the other companies that don't either? Bottom line is we're honest about why, and on the YOLO line there are many variables in how it's built which would give different parameters. They are built to your purpose, so there is no "standard" configuration on the SPL version, the musical one has a standard configuration but can still have variables.
Show me the sub on Alibaba. I'll give you a hint, they won't be on there, because the only part you THINK you saw on Alibaba is the motor. You mean to tell me the motor is what makes the sub? Why do subs have any other parts then? I can give you the specs on a DD Z 15 (funny how I have them and they don't publish them) and the specs on one variation of the YOLO 15, and on paper the YOLO outperforms it. Is "on paper" always right? No, but good luck finding somebody with a Z willing to do a swap. Lately it looks like there are more people running YOLO's than Z's.The YOLOs are an alibaba sub, same thing as the Tantric UHD proto they never made a production run of... If they outperform your DDZ I would be EXTREMELY surprised.
This is why specs aren't listed. BL isn't the only spec that matters, and you'd probably compare BL of different impedance subs. The same sub with different impedance coils will have different BL numbers, the lower the impedance, the lower the BL. If you take the BL number and divide by the Re number, you will find you end up with roughly the same figure for the same sub. THAT is what matters in terms of comparing strength. But again, strength isn't the only factor. Inductance plays a huge roll as well. An example of this is comparing the Ermagerd and DC Level 6. The Level 6 has a higher BL number, so it should be louder right? Nope! The Level 6 also has quadruple the inductance, that motor force can't overcome the inductance.I'm looking for 12" d1 specs. I'm interested in BL of the YOLO and Ermagerd series. If they truly are better, I'd like to see specs.
This is based on what? No experience, logic, or understanding?They aren't
I guess you won't take it since I will never own one. There will be a time when you can see though BS, it took me a few years to do so. I hope you learn faster than I did.
And Blake the tool. Here it is before the M4, 80prs, beauty panels, suede wrap.. Before it was parted out and sold to a very pissed off dealer once he dug into it. You can look at some of the old vids to see where it came from.
Show everybody where you can buy those motors (that you think are the same) for $200, please. Then they will see what you're referring to is $280, not $200, and while you're at it, go ahead and contact them and say you want one and you need a shipping quote. Suddenly that $280 motor (again not $200) turns into a $530 motor because it's gonna be $250 to ship it. Don't believe me? Ask.
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