opinions on edead sound deadener

[ktraughb 10+ year member]

also, any opinions on r-blox?

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

also, any opinions on r-blox?

R-Blox is asphalt with Mylar facing.

so are you saying in comparison to edead, that fatmat and pand s arent as good? if im hearing correct it is better to use the butyle deadening, and not the asphalt? if so edead falls into that category. even though it has the thin mylar backing and some possible sticking issues? im not 100% sure if you are saying its better in comparison to those. like i said, i have no experience other than dynamat. is it a butyl or asphalt compound? and rudy you sound like youve actually tested and used these. other than raamaat, and second skin, what would you recommend as a third, all other variables aside. no spray adhesive, no dynamat either.

I don't think you can really compare FatMat, P&S and eDead. IMO, they all fall below my minimum standard for use. I want a butyl adhesive with an aluminum foil constraining layer that I can install with 100% confidence in its reliability. I'd put Cascade V-Max, Second Skin's Damplifier and Damplifier Pro in the top tier, Dynamat Xtreme a level below them and RAAMmat BXT and Ultimate from the Canadian company B-Quiet a level below DX. RAAMmat is the least expensive product I would consider. Each step up brings enhanced performance.

I think you are losing your way by trying to evaluate these products based on price per square foot. This is almost completely irrelevant. Decide how much you are willing to spend and then buy as much of one of the products I listed as you can within that budget. Buying less of a better product and spreading it out will work as well or better than much more of any of these "discount" options - with none of the risk. Having to put down 4 layers of inferior material to equal a single layer spread out for 50% coverage means more work and weight for no gain in performance. Sort of like choosing a woman by the pound - more isn't always better //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

RAAMmat is the least expensive product I would consider. Each step up brings enhanced performance.

That's an excellent way to put it. It's the best of not the greatest. Kind of want e-love you now for saying those things and turning me on.....//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

That's an excellent way to put it. It's the best of not the greatest. Kind of want e-love you now for saying those things and turning me on.....//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

Glad I could help //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[ktraughb 10+ year member]

well while you did give some great info, i decided to go ahead and buy 50^ ft of fat mat last night. according to their website, their mat does have a 3 mil aluminum constraining layer (not mylar). it also states a rubber compound, but doesnt specify as to asphalt or butyl. either way, ill try it out. they give a money back guarantee if it comes off i guess. the total thickness is right around the dynamat extreme, and it looks to be very comparable. if i need more, i may buy less of a better brand that you have recommended. thanks for some reliable info.

 

[ktraughb 10+ year member]

also, one thing to add. i think when people are deciding to add spray adhesive to the surface before adding the deadener, it sounds to me like you are setting yourself up for failure. applying a solid adhesive to a liquid adhesive (even if it does dry solid) should be less adhering beyond the poor adhesive properties of just the deadener. are you all actually cleaning the surfaces very well first with an alcohol or solvent?

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

That's an excellent way to put it. It's the best of not the greatest. Kind of want e-love you now for saying those things and turning me on.....//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

Glad I could help //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

You two should serious start up your own Deadening business. You guys seem to jump on every single deadening thread.

... just a thought.

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

also, one thing to add. i think when people are deciding to add spray adhesive to the surface before adding the deadener, it sounds to me like you are setting yourself up for failure. applying a solid adhesive to a liquid adhesive (even if it does dry solid) should be less adhering beyond the poor adhesive properties of just the deadener. are you all actually cleaning the surfaces very well first with an alcohol or solvent?

It also interferes with the interface between the adhesive and the sheet metal which is where a lot of the conversion of vibration to heat occurs (with butyl, not asphalt).

FatMat is definitely asphalt. They describe it as rubber compound to be misleading. The asphalt contains rubber to increase it's heat tolerance, so it it is technically correct (more or less). FatMat used to say it was butyl until the owner was called out on another forum and agreed to stop making that claim. He corrected it on the main site but continues to make the claim on his eBay auctions. An interesting note is that the guy owns a roofing company that sells MFM Peel & Seal. Since you're determined to buy asphalt, you'd save yourself some money just driving to Lowe's and buying P&S directly. Oh well.

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

You two should serious start up your own Deadening business. You guys seem to jump on every single deadening thread.

... just a thought.

I have my own business, but I don't sell "deadener." I think it has a limited role in the automobile, personally. Constrained layer damper, that is. There's just so much more out there when you appreciate the science and engineering behind the right tool for the job.

Don's business is getting that new SDS out, right Don? He's been about done for like the last 9 months. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Just playing. But I really am anxious to see it.

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Since you're determined to buy asphalt, you'd save yourself some money just driving to Lowe's and buying P&S directly. Oh well.

Seriously. I have Protecto Wrap brand products in a few spots in my car. They make a version with a white mylar backing on it that's a little nicer than the older stuff. But the hell if I'm going to use that to deaden anything.

 

[ktraughb 10+ year member]

well for the cost, it was either fat mat or peace pad or eDead. the latter two looked very similar to one another, but the fat mat has the thicker aluminum contstraining layer. while i do like the idea of the butyl, i dont feel too bad about the asphalt. i actually used a lot of old stuff in my last car that was straight leftover from ford factory. literally unbacked asphalt, and it did pretty well. i want the aluminum layer because i will be adhering carpeting to it.

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

well for the cost, it was either fat mat or peace pad or eDead. the latter two looked very similar to one another, but the fat mat has the thicker aluminum contstraining layer. while i do like the idea of the butyl, i dont feel too bad about the asphalt. i actually used a lot of old stuff in my last car that was straight leftover from ford factory. literally unbacked asphalt, and it did pretty well. i want the aluminum layer because i will be adhering carpeting to it.

Not sure why you posted the question in the first place. To keep costs down, you use less of a decent product and get better results - but we've already been through that. It really doesn't matter if the car is a junker and you know for a fact that it will be crushed in a year or two but if not, you just screwed yourself or the next owner. You also gave money to someone you had been told can't be bothered to be straight and direct about what he's selling. You wasted a lot of people's time.

 

[bigbangtheory 5,000+ posts]

Whaaa, whaa, whaaa!

OP, you will be fine with that fatmat. Been in my car for months and never had a problem with any of it and also like the one guy said about his P&S my car is black and been in over 100%F and under 0 temps as well. To be fair, I have yet to go throgh winter with it yet, but I am sure it will be fine.

Rudy is just very against the asphalt, which is what the mainly used from back in the day, just is a lot easier to put on now.

Yeah, we could have probably saved money just going to Lowes and getting P&S, but like I have mentioned, I have installed both of them and fatmat seems thicker to me. I do recommed not getting the ghey fatmat label on yours if you can. Shit stains the crap out of your hands. Also people think that is one of their downfalls as well as the label comes off so eaisly, lol!

Rudy is good peeps, just very against this stuff. He is full of info though and maybe he is right, but I have been golden so far with the cheap deadener. We will see.

 

[Anthony Collova 10+ year member]

well for the cost, it was either fat mat or peace pad or eDead. the latter two looked very similar to one another, but the fat mat has the thicker aluminum contstraining layer. while i do like the idea of the butyl, i dont feel too bad about the asphalt. i actually used a lot of old stuff in my last car that was straight leftover from ford factory. literally unbacked asphalt, and it did pretty well. i want the aluminum layer because i will be adhering carpeting to it.

I think what these guys are saying is pretty accurate.

Don and john both know their shit when it comes to sound deadening.

Choosing to go with Fatmat because price is a concerns seems very ignorant. Especially in light of all the info you have been given.

It is kind of like this:

If price is a concern then performance is not. Nor is reliability or value for your dollar.

In that case, go with duct tape

See, if you are going to use the sq foot price as your gauge, why not get the absolute most for your money?

Yeah, Good dampers like Damplifier Pro, Hushmat and VBMax are going to cost you $3-5 per sq foot, but Fatmat will only run you $1.50 per sq foot.

IF that is your line of thinking, then big rolls of duct tape will only cost you like. $.30 psf and you can do 10 layers!!!

Now, duct tape will melt, and will fall off, and will cause problems, and is nowhere near as good for damping vibrations as Fatmat.

But Fatmat, is not a vibration damper either, so using it has its drawbacks. Especially when compared to products that are specifically designed for automotive vibration damping.

Real Dampers do cost more than Fatmat, but Fatmat costs more than Duct tape and hell! forget duct tape. Go get some paper mache' and line your car with it!

That stuff is only $.08 per sq foot an now you can do 45 layer of it!!

When we look at the problem at a macro level, it tends to be a little more clear.

I guess it comes down to this:

45 layers of paper mache'

10 layers of duct tape

3 layers of roof flashing (Fatmat)

or 1 layer of a real vibration mat.

Now, if you want to make performance your argument, you will get better results from 10 sq feet of a real damper like DP VM or HM than you can with 30 sq feet of a substandard product like Fatmat.

Coverage is not everything with vibration damping and resonant control. Quality is. Especially when you consider things like product failure, toxicity and performance.

ANT

 

[ktraughb 10+ year member]

first of all, i didnt wast anyones ****ing time. if you responded, thank you for doing so with your own intention of doing so. i didnt force you to do it. however, im not paying a shitload on sound deadner right now. i went from a wall, where i didnt need deadener anywhere to a trunk car. in fact, ive only used deadener in very small applications. and no it would not have been cheaper to buy peel and seal. you bascially get 12.5 square feet for 14$.

my original question was based on opinions of eDead, and you all decided to throw in your two cents on the other brands. while it may be a worthy two cents, dont say i wasted your time. you answer on your own, and i appreciate a good answer.

yes i bought some fatmat. if i didnt buy it, i was going to save and get some dynamat extreme from work, because even though its terribly expensive, i would still save over raamaat or second skin. while they may be great products, its not realistic for the budget system im putting together in this car.

and about the toxicity of asphalt...i think many of the substances i come in contact with day to day are much more harmful than putting some asphalt on surfaces in my trunk.

if second skin decides they want to price match what i can get some of the other stuff for, ill represent it all day. in the meantime, i wont spend that money on this vehicle. it would basically be at least triple the cost.