New to forums questions about audio setup!

[Anatreth]

whoops https://vid.me/DIQz

Ok, thats fair. I've seen a few vids like those on youtube with the hds208's. Now, if givin the choice.. hds208's or a 15 fua 750?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I took the fact that he has stock electrical into account. He'd be fine with 1.8k. 900 watts or so after imp rise not a whole lot of power for a sub like that man

Again, you have the box built with subs in, in his car and have an impedance graph of it? I'm very interested to know from where you derived this impedance data.

 

[Anatreth]

Again, you have the box built with subs in, in his car and have an impedance graph of it? I'm very interested to know from where you derived this impedance data.

I get it. You guys don't like each other, or you don't agree with the way he's talking, or whatever is going on.

However, i'm looking for advice with things and he's one of a few people that responded.

If I could get some more opinions? That would be swell

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I get it. You guys don't like each other, or you don't agree with the way he's talking, or whatever is going on.
However, i'm looking for advice with things and he's one of a few people that responded.

If I could get some more opinions? That would be swell

My advice is that unless that other guy is offering you a warranty on your equipment DO NOT run a 2K amp on stock (105A) alternator with no extra batteries, and do not try to give a woofer more than manufacturer recommends for power.

Otherwise I believe I already chimed in a few pages back.

 

[Anatreth]

My advice is that unless that other guy is offering you a warranty on your equipment DO NOT run a 2K amp on stock (105A) alternator with no extra batteries, and do not try to give a woofer more than manufacturer recommends for power.
Otherwise I believe I already chimed in a few pages back.

Buying a 2K amp and trying to run without electrical upgrades IMO is asking for trouble. I'd stick with the 1200-1500. The extra 1dB or less isn't worth breaking things or quickly burning up your alternator.
HDS series subs have proven unreliable on rated power. If you can't afford HDC3 series Soundqubed steer clear. The FU subs have gotten very good reviews but IIRC they use a 2.5" coil I would not attempt that on 1000W.

I didn't read all of this thread, but assuming you have a 300$ sub budget, a 300$ single 15" will outperform a pair of 150$ 12's every day of the week. On

This is kinda why i've been talking about the 1.8k vs the 1.3k a few comments back. the 1.3k at 2ohms would underpower a fu 750 15(600w) and the 1.8k would overpower it(900w). I would assume some electrical loss, maybe 20%? That would put me right in the window of the 1.8. Am I wrong in that assumption?

I have no desire to blindly follow one mans advice, as good as it might be. I've kinda shied away from the tline 208s, i'm kinda stuck on a 15.(if It fits.)

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

This is kinda why i've been talking about the 1.8k vs the 1.3k a few comments back. the 1.3k at 2ohms would underpower a fu 750 15(600w) and the 1.8k would overpower it(900w). I would assume some electrical loss, maybe 20%? That would put me right in the window of the 1.8. Am I wrong in that assumption?
I have no desire to blindly follow one mans advice, as good as it might be. I've kinda shied away from the tline 208s, i'm kinda stuck on a 15.(if It fits.)

If you want something really loud, why not just save up and get a soundqubed hdc3 15 along with the twisted sounds 1.8k and some electrical upgrades like big 3 and battery. Keep the gains low at first till you upgrade your electricals. You can control how much power the amp its outputting through signal controls. AKA gains and head unit pre-out voltage settings. You dont have to use all the power so you never need to worry that much about overpowering.

Go big or go home right? Its just to keep you from upgrading anymore, it'll be a system that'll last for years and years(satisfaction wise).

My advice is that unless that other guy is offering you a warranty on your equipment DO NOT run a 2K amp on stock (105A) alternator with no extra batteries, and do not try to give a woofer more than manufacturer recommends for power.
Otherwise I believe I already chimed in a few pages back.

Anyone can run a 2k amp on a stock electrical system, but you'll just never be able to tap the full potential from it because to run it safely, you'll need to back off the gain till you dont have voltage drops and your output will be limited but it'll be the same as having a 750-1000 watt rms amp BUT he can upgrade electricals later on and fully tap into that amp and not have to spend more on a bigger amp later.

 

[Anatreth]

If you want something really loud, why not just save up and get a soundqubed hdc3 15 along with the twisted sounds 1.8k and some electrical upgrades like big 3 and battery. Keep the gains low at first till you upgrade your electricals. You can control how much power the amp its outputting through signal controls. AKA gains and head unit pre-out voltage settings. You dont have to use all the power so you never need to worry that much about overpowering.

Go big or go home right? Its just to keep you from upgrading anymore, it'll be a system that'll last for years and years(satisfaction wise).

Anyone can run a 2k amp on a stock electrical system, but you'll just never be able to tap the full potential from it because to run it safely, you'll need to back off the gain till you dont have voltage drops and your output will be limited but it'll be the same as having a 750-1000 watt rms amp BUT he can upgrade electricals later on and fully tap into that amp and not have to spend more on a bigger amp later.

Ok so, the spec comparrison between the FU and the hdc15 is pretty damned close, with the hdc a higher watt rms sud and 3" vc instead of 2.5". The price difference is what, 100$? not the end of the world.

The car already has a solid optima yellow top in it, I can't remember the class/model but it's like 2 steps up from what my car asks for. The big 3 will happen when I get the car back in 2/0. replacing the alternator however, becomes problematic. There are no real high outputs for it minus buying one for core and having someone build it for me.

As for the fu 750 15 vs the sdc 15, on paper the specs are pretty damned close. 3" vs 2.5" vc and rms being the only differences. They pretty much go for the same price, minus the FU being on sale right now I guess. Is the comparison worthy of the sdc over the FU?

The sdc's also don't list ft^3 of volume required..

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Ok so, the spec comparrison between the FU and the hdc15 is pretty damned close, with the hdc a higher watt rms sud and 3" vc instead of 2.5". The price difference is what, 100$? not the end of the world.
The car already has a solid optima yellow top in it, I can't remember the class/model but it's like 2 steps up from what my car asks for. The big 3 will happen when I get the car back in 2/0. replacing the alternator however, becomes problematic. There are no real high outputs for it minus buying one for core and having someone build it for me.

As for the fu 750 15 vs the sdc 15, on paper the specs are pretty damned close. 3" vs 2.5" vc and rms being the only differences. They pretty much go for the same price, minus the FU being on sale right now I guess. Is the comparison worthy of the sdc over the FU?

The sdc's also don't list ft^3 of volume required..

The FU is at average pricing ATM, not really on sale. I love FU audio for its price bracket but I'm not gonna say that its louder than an hdc3 when its obviously not. The hdc3 is an overall much better sub actually they are in two different leagues to be honest cant really compare the two at all, the hdc3 is in every way a superior sub hence the price difference. The real parameters to look at are the T/S parameters.

Motor strength is a lot more with the hdc3 along with stiffer stronger supension and stronger basket with direct leads. If you can spend a bit more, its worth it, you can put a lot of power on the HDC3 comfortably. With these competition brands, as you go up the price escelon, the quality and results usually follows suit.

It doesn't matter what solid optima you have, there's a certain amount of battery bank you'll need to handle the current draw your amp has. How much you'll need to upgrade will depend on your voltages. If you get everything in, tuned properly, Take a Digital multi-meter and place it on the amp positive and negative terminals and set to check battery voltage. Play your hardest hitting song and see if you drop below 12.6 volts or not. If it drops below that, you'll need to upgrade. If it doesnt, then you are fine, more upgrades wouldnt hurt but its not necessary. Power that can be ran on stock alternator varies from car to car.

 

[Anatreth]

The FU is at average pricing ATM, not really on sale. The hdc3 is an overall much better sub actually they are in two different leagues to be honest cant really compare the two at all, the hdc3 is in every way a superior sub hence the price difference. The real parameters to look at are the T/S parameters. Motor strength is a lot more with the hdc3 along with stiffer stronger supension and stronger basket with direct leads. If you can spend a bit more, its worth it.

Gotcha. My other problem tho, is not finding a volume requirement for it.. Hard to try and plan for it if I don't have the space from the get go because it needs like 5ft^3 or something ridiculous. Still waiting to work out a box anyway with stang, since I don't have trunk measurements. :/

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Gotcha. My other problem tho, is not finding a volume requirement for it.. Hard to try and plan for it if I don't have the space from the get go because it needs like 5ft^3 or something ridiculous. Still waiting to work out a box anyway with stang, since I don't have trunk measurements. :/

Its not too big of a requirement. Especially if you go with a round/octoport.

Recommendations from andrew mcollough a soundqubed competitor/hardcore fanatic/tester guy, owner of the black nasty. He thoroughly played with these subs a lot.

video of the black nasty.




"HDC3 old version (Old Style basket) Stiff suspension

1k input power

HDC310 - 2.0 cube net with 18 sq inch port area per cube - tune between 36-41 hz

HDC312 - 3.0 cube net with 18 sq inch port area per cube - tune between 34-39 hz

HDC315 - 5.0 cube net with 18 sq inch port area per cube - tune between 35-40 hz

HDC318 - 6.5 cube net with 18 sq inch port area per cube - tune between 33-38 hz

2k input power

HDC310 - 1.5 cube net with 17 sq inch port area per cube - tune between 36-41 hz

HDC312 - 2.5 cube net with 17 sq inch port area per cube - tune between 34-39 hz

HDC315 - 4.0 cube net with 17 sq inch port area per cube - tune between 35-40 hz

HDC318 - 5.5 cube net with 17 sq inch port area per cube - tune between 33-38 hz

HDC3 current version

1k input power

HDC310 - 1.5 cube net with 17 sq inch port area per cube - tune between 36-41 hz

HDC312 - 2.5 cube net with 17 sq inch port area per cube - tune between 34-39 hz

HDC315 - 4.0 cube net with 17 sq inch port area per cube - tune between 35-40 hz

HDC318 - 5.5 cube net with 17 sq inch port area per cube - tune between 33-38 hz

2k input power

HDC310 - 1.25 cube net with 16 sq inch port area per cube - tune between 36-41 hz

HDC312 - 2.25 cube net with 16 sq inch port area per cube - tune between 34-39 hz

HDC315 - 3.75 cube net with 16 sq inch port area per cube - tune between 35-40 hz

HDC318 - 5.25 cube net with 16 sq inch port area per cube - tune between 33-38 hz"

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

If you want something really loud, why not just save up and get a soundqubed hdc3 15 along with the twisted sounds 1.8k and some electrical upgrades like big 3 and battery. Keep the gains low at first till you upgrade your electricals. You can control how much power the amp its outputting through signal controls. AKA gains and head unit pre-out voltage settings. You dont have to use all the power so you never need to worry that much about overpowering.

Go big or go home right? Its just to keep you from upgrading anymore, it'll be a system that'll last for years and years(satisfaction wise).

Anyone can run a 2k amp on a stock electrical system, but you'll just never be able to tap the full potential from it because to run it safely, you'll need to back off the gain till you dont have voltage drops and your output will be limited but it'll be the same as having a 750-1000 watt rms amp BUT he can upgrade electricals later on and fully tap into that amp and not have to spend more on a bigger amp later.

Or buy a second 1.3K later when and if he wants/needs to upgrade electrical. The difference in 500W at that point isn't going to be dramatic all things considered and you're really getting into the area where you're red-lining your electrical system all the time.

Gotcha. My other problem tho, is not finding a volume requirement for it.. Hard to try and plan for it if I don't have the space from the get go because it needs like 5ft^3 or something ridiculous. Still waiting to work out a box anyway with stang, since I don't have trunk measurements. :/

Single 15" or pair of 12's will fit in anything short of some real clown-car econo-box type vehicles.

Ok so, the spec comparrison between the FU and the hdc15 is pretty damned close, with the hdc a higher watt rms sud and 3" vc instead of 2.5". The price difference is what, 100$? not the end of the world.
The car already has a solid optima yellow top in it, I can't remember the class/model but it's like 2 steps up from what my car asks for. The big 3 will happen when I get the car back in 2/0. replacing the alternator however, becomes problematic. There are no real high outputs for it minus buying one for core and having someone build it for me.

As for the fu 750 15 vs the sdc 15, on paper the specs are pretty damned close. 3" vs 2.5" vc and rms being the only differences. They pretty much go for the same price, minus the FU being on sale right now I guess. Is the comparison worthy of the sdc over the FU?

The sdc's also don't list ft^3 of volume required..

Soundqubed does have a page of box spec recommendations. Go with a pair of the Fu 10 or 12's or a single HDC3 15. Either should hang with 1300W amp and get you about the same place for output and overall performance. The Fu has got some great reviews by respected members of the community and should be considered the top tier of 2.5" coil woofers. HDC3 is pretty mid level 3" coil but also a solid performer and approaching competition-worthy. Contact both companies and see who seems to give you better customer support, flip a coin, or just pick whichever logo you like best. Either would make you happy provided you build a solid box.

 

[Anatreth]

Or buy a second 1.3K later when and if he wants/needs to upgrade electrical. The difference in 500W at that point isn't going to be dramatic all things considered and you're really getting into the area where you're red-lining your electrical system all the time.




Single 15" or pair of 12's will fit in anything short of some real clown-car econo-box type vehicles.

Soundqubed does have a page of box spec recommendations. Go with a pair of the Fu 10 or 12's or a single HDC3 15. Either should hang with 1300W amp and get you about the same place for output and overall performance. The Fu has got some great reviews by respected members of the community and should be considered the top tier of 2.5" coil woofers. HDC3 is pretty mid level 3" coil but also a solid performer and approaching competition-worthy. Contact both companies and see who seems to give you better customer support, flip a coin, or just pick whichever logo you like best. Either would make you happy provided you build a solid box.

So that's pretty close to the thinking I have a this point.

A single hdc3 15 (just looks better on specs compared to the fu 750 15)

A twisted sounds 1.3k

2/0 big three

0ga amp wiring

Pioneer 4100nex

I'm sure I'm missing something, but I think I'm leaps and bounds beyond what I lost at this point in quality/performance

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

do not try to give a woofer more than manufacturer recommends for power

Go with a pair of the Fu 10 or 12's or a single HDC3 15. Either should hang with 1300W amp and get you about the same place for output and overall performance.

So much for not giving a woofer more than the manufacture recommends for power. Even you're suggesting that he do that, and in the same thread where you chastised me for it!

The fact of the matter is both the SA-15 and the FU 750 can handle up to 1400w rms clamped on some frequencies. I would never recommend he do that, but he'll only be giving it 1000 if he's careful with the gain. Less now that he's using a 1.3-1.5kw amp. And if he uses an amp that's bigger than he needs, he'll have room to upgrade and keep from clipping the signal. And lol at your little impedance curve remark as if the impedance is going to exceed nominal as any given time during music. He has stock electrical, he can't use more than half the power of that amp anyway... He would be fine. He might want to get batts and alts later.

And extra power is especially good for SQ so he has available power for transients

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

So much for not giving a woofer more than the manufacture recommends for power. Even you're suggesting that he do that, and in the same thread where you chastised me for it!
The fact of the matter is both the SA-15 and the FU 750 can handle up to 1400w rms clamped on some frequencies. I would never recommend he do that, but he'll only be giving it 1000 if he's careful with the gain. Less now that he's using a 1.3-1.5kw amp. And if he uses an amp that's bigger than he needs, he'll have room to upgrade and keep from clipping the signal. And lol at your little impedance curve remark as if the impedance is going to exceed nominal as any given time during music. He has stock electrical, he can't use more than half the power of that amp anyway... He would be fine. He might want to get batts and alts later.

And extra power is especially good for SQ so he has available power for transients

No they can't. 900 is about the clamped limit over a few minutes.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

No they can't. 900 is about the clamped limit over a few minutes.

Not saying you're wrong, but gotgixers put 1400 to them for a while. Maybe that was like nominal or before rise but I doubt it... I put 2000 watts "before rise" to my sa-15 daily and it's been fine for a long time and it's generally considered to be inferior to the fu 750. I'm no expert though