New to forums questions about audio setup!

[Anatreth]

Next vehicle will be AWD. This was technically for the lady but I wanted it boosted lol

For wiring go with at least 1/0 welding cable. 2/0 pref.

Amp: Crescendo 1500, Soundqubed 1200, AB VFL 80.1, VFL Hybrid 4480, Twisted Sounds 1.8k, there are a few suggestions

Definitely do the big 3 upgrade.

Get yourself a voltage meter while you're at it to keep an eye on voltage at the amp (they are cheap)

The box, I strongly suggest CSCStang, or Buck @ High Output enclosures, otherwise design one and use something like torres to figure out your tuning.

Big 3 is on the list, it's just miserable to do in this car. 2/0 welding cable is on the list as well.

I could do a twisted sounds 1.8k, it's a solid looking device.. only 400$ new haha.

 

[cfox10 10+ year member]

Big 3 is on the list, it's just miserable to do in this car. 2/0 welding cable is on the list as well.
I could do a twisted sounds 1.8k, it's a solid looking device.. only 400$ new haha.

I believe fireitup has a used twisted sounds 1.3k he was selling very cheap.

 

[Anatreth]

I believe fireitup has a used twisted sounds 1.3k he was selling very cheap.

Thanks for the heads up, but i'll just end up getting the 1.8k. I whine about the cost, but it's still in my budget lol.

I was thinking this: http://www.wireandsupply.com/category_s/58.htm for my big 3 upgrades.

Also, what size wire should be used for primary power to the amp? same thing? or 1/0? 0?

 

[cfox10 10+ year member]

Thanks for the heads up, but i'll just end up getting the 1.8k. I whine about the cost, but it's still in my budget lol.

I suggest going with something like an HDS3 from soundqubed, it will handle that power a bit better than the FU Audio I believe. I personally don't have experience with the FU Audio though, so I'm not sure how much power it can really handle. A D2 HDS3 wired to 1ohm would handle everything that amp throws at it and get very loud doing so.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I suggest going with something like an HDS3 from soundqubed, it will handle that power a bit better than the FU Audio I believe. I personally don't have experience with the FU Audio though, so I'm not sure how much power it can really handle. A D2 HDS3 wired to 1ohm would handle everything that amp throws at it and get very loud doing so.

gotgixers had a pair of 15s on a taramps 8k @ 4 ohms clamped 1400 rms each to them for over 30 mins. They are no slouches when handling power with their american wound coils. Motor wise, between the xfl, fu audio and hds300, the hds300 is the smallest motor.

This is my buddie's 12

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Buying a 2K amp and trying to run without electrical upgrades IMO is asking for trouble. I'd stick with the 1200-1500. The extra 1dB or less isn't worth breaking things or quickly burning up your alternator.

HDS series subs have proven unreliable on rated power. If you can't afford HDC3 series Soundqubed steer clear. The FU subs have gotten very good reviews but IIRC they use a 2.5" coil I would not attempt that on 1000W.

I didn't read all of this thread, but assuming you have a 300$ sub budget, a 300$ single 15" will outperform a pair of 150$ 12's every day of the week. On

 

[Anatreth]

Buying a 2K amp and trying to run without electrical upgrades IMO is asking for trouble. I'd stick with the 1200-1500. The extra 1dB or less isn't worth breaking things or quickly burning up your alternator.
HDS series subs have proven unreliable on rated power. If you can't afford HDC3 series Soundqubed steer clear. The FU subs have gotten very good reviews but IIRC they use a 2.5" coil I would not attempt that on 1000W.

I didn't read all of this thread, but assuming you have a 300$ sub budget, a 300$ single 15" will outperform a pair of 150$ 12's every day of the week. On

Right now what I have in mind is a FU 750 15, with a a twisted sounds 1.8k. At 2 ohms that's only 900watts to the subs(from what I read)

The car has a 115amp alt on it, it just never got the big 3. I'm planning on some Royal excelene 2/0 welding wire with tinned copper connectors on it for the grounds/pos.

Those take a .. 250A fuse, right?

I'm still not sure what I should be running for amp powerwire tho..

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Run it at 1ohm. Just back it down until it's good.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I have 1700ish for a 2.5 coil 8. It's nice to have it on hand if neeeed.

 

[cfox10 10+ year member]

gotgixers had a pair of 15s on a taramps 8k @ 4 ohms clamped 1400 rms each to them for over 30 mins. They are no slouches when handling power with their american wound coils. Motor wise, between the xfl, fu audio and hds300, the hds300 is the smallest motor.

This is my buddie's 12

I'd like to try out the FU Audio subs. I currently own XFL's and I've tried many setups...not that impressed with the sound quality.

I've put a single hds208 on my soundqubed 2200 rising to 1.7 @ staying in the 14v range... not sure exactly how much power it's seeing since the amp isn't particularly the best but that 2.5" coil has no problem.. Played for my hour and a half drive and never got hot or stinky. It's completely outperformed my two sa8's on it's own in terms of power handling.

The XFL's get silly loud when you throw a bunch of power at them but I can't seem to get a linear response no matter the enclosure I put them in (and my designs are from reputable builders) so I'm not sure what's up with that.

I have do have a local guy wanting to trade to FU Audio 12's for my Soundqubed 2200, wondering if I should do it or not to try em' out.

 

[Anatreth]

Run it at 1ohm. Just back it down until it's good.

Run it at 1ohm even if it's a 2ohm DVC??

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

2ohm DVC can go 1 or 4.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

HDS series subs have proven unreliable on rated power. If you can't afford HDC3 series Soundqubed steer clear.

due to mechanical or thermal failure? it wasn't hard to make the coil smell on a single hds315 with a taramps hd3000 but giving it a hard clip from a powerbass 1000.1dx its nearly impossible to get it stinky lol

it seems to hesitate on low lows so maybe thats what you mean? it doesnt have massive excursion

 

[Anatreth]

2ohm DVC can go 1 or 4.

RMS power, 1ohm mono : 1750W x 1CH is what the twisted sounds is rated for 1ohm. Isn't that a little much? I know people keep saying that these subs can be well overpowered, I just can't wrap my head around the safety of a 750w rms sub with 1750w to it lol

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

RMS power, 1ohm mono : 1750W x 1CH is what the twisted sounds is rated for 1ohm. Isn't that a little much? I know people keep saying that these subs can be well overpowered, I just can't wrap my head around the safety of a 750w rms sub with 1750w to it lol

you are never getting the full power out of any amp.

Read up on box rise/impedance rise. You'll end up at 2 ohms or so when wired to 1 ohm after rise. Its not that its the amp, its just physics. Thats why you have plenty of people claiming they run twice the power to a single sub, once you do an actual clamp test to see what kind of power you are actually getting, its usually way less due to box rise.

Set the gain properly for clean power and the sub can handle it fine. Its better than having a sub-par amp that requires you to turn it up a lot to get decent sound output and get overstressed/hot due to being pushed along with risking clipping the signal from wanting to push it harder without proper headroom of power from the amp.

You have a big amp that sits on its @ss all day barely lifting a finger, stays cool and efficient and lasts a long time. Vs a small amp trying to put out 100% effort every day, gets warm/hot easily.

Still for your setup, a 1200 ish amp should be fine but more power can never hurt when used responsibly.