My install's coming along nicely

Running your system this way you will retain subwoofer level control right from the HU (you won't need the remote for the V9 sub channel and I would suggest you NOT use it because it adds an unnecessary component in the signal path that is redundant), you will also retain the EQing abilities of your HU…In theory if you stick to adjusting the freq's within the subwoofer region (at the HU) you'll have no problem shaping the subwoofer response…depending on the model of your Alpine HU you may also subwoofer TA adjustment.
Your HU may not have as flexible of tools as the DSP…but it certainly has some you can use.

Suggestions for channel usage and freq ranges (to start) would be:

CH 1&2 tweeters 4000hz HP

CH 3&4 5.25's 200/250hz-4000hz BP

CH 5&6 front 6x9's 60hz-200/250hz BP

CH 7&8 rear 6x9's 60hz HP (no LP)

Sub CH 70/80hz LP

Start with all crossover slopes @24db

This will give you a 3-way front, basically full range (60hz and up) rears for rear fill, and dedicated sub.

EQ and TA as you like.
Very useful to me, thanks! Basically abouit what I was planning for:

"ilikeradios" posted and I copy/pasted:

John - you will not get proper staging at all using the door speakers as full range.
You will not be able to do any time alignment using them like that either.

I was hoping you were going to set your front stage up as a 3 way

door speakers running 60-250 hz

dash speakers running 250 - 4,500 hz

tweeters 4,500 and up

That would be the best way to setup your system based on the equipment you have.
I find it very reassuring that both your recommendations are approximately the same for a 3 way set up! That's what I'm gonnas go for when I get the cabling to do it correctly. I have a laptop with the Sound Manager program on it. The first thing I'm gonna do when I get

USB connected to the DSP is save the existing configuration in case I ever have to have the battery disconnected again!

I think I will copy/paste your recommendations and email it to myself too! Thanks! :)

John Kuthe...

 
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Laughable. When have you ever figured out something entirely on your own?
You mean....pay someone else to figure it out for you.
Yeah, a few things, but like most humans I owe respect and appreciation to all those who have taught me and I have learned from over my lifetime. Ever hear the term "no man is an island"?

And I got an A+ in my "Technical Writing" class at Washington University St Louis in engineering school! I know bad documentation when I read it.

John Kuthe...

 
Yeah, a few things, but like most humans I owe respect and appreciation to all those who have taught me and I have learned from over my lifetime. Ever hear the term "no man is an island"?
And I got an A+ in my "Technical Writing" class at Washington University St Louis in engineering school! I know bad documentation when I read it.

John Kuthe...
Then maybe write the DSP a technical letter next time you cant turn it on lol ! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
or next time take the technical reading class =]
Thing I hate about this Alpine doc is it tries to be for everyone at once. A very common problem with computer docs. And when you have a specific problem like I do, you then have to wade through tons of c rap which does not help you at all searching for the specific answer to your question!!

John Kuthe...

 
And when you have a specific problem like I do, you then have to wade through tons of c rap which does not help you at all searching for the specific answer to your question!!
John Kuthe...

The answers to your particular set of problems will probably come from the DSM-5.

 
Thing I hate about this Alpine doc is it tries to be for everyone at once. A very common problem with computer docs. And when you have a specific problem like I do, you then have to wade through tons of c rap which does not help you at all searching for the specific answer to your question!!
John Kuthe...
Wow. Your really that special you think it should be written just for you? Self centred spoiled little child!

 
Then maybe write the DSP a technical letter next time you cant turn it on lol ! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Awesome response //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
Yeah, a few things, but like most humans I owe respect and appreciation to all those who have taught me and I have learned from over my lifetime. Ever hear the term "no man is an island"?
And I got an A+ in my "Technical Writing" class at Washington University St Louis in engineering school! I know bad documentation when I read it.

John Kuthe...

There you go again....derailing offtrack with your so called un wisdom words and degrees which mean NOTHING when it comes to installing something so simple, your making it more difficult than it already is. You want things done your way and your way only. Thank god the world doesn't revolve around you. You'd have a lot of pissedoff people at ya.

You still don't get it. You think your smart but really what it boils down to is your pathetic casper white human that cannot comprehend/learn anything. That degree or even a technical writing paper isn't gonna help you succeeed in installing an amp or DSP for that matter. Alpine's instruction manual I'm sure is simple to read....your just an idiot. I've used Alpine for years and not once ran into a technical issue/problem with Alpine's drawings/blueprints/install wiring guide, however you wanna call it.

 
He's had plenty of help. Refuses to follow instructions. Stubborn bastard. If I owned a company and he worked for me, he would be immediately fired.
I'm using the valuable information from ilikeradios and NSTALN to set me up a three way active system up front (PHD drivers, tweeters and 2 door 6x9s) and the rear 6x9 for fill and the sub wired directly to the HU bypassing the DSP, leaving me eight output channels to configure how I want unless Alpine ***** about needing a sub!

From NSTALN:

Running your system this way you will retain subwoofer level control right from the HU (you won't need the remote for the V9 sub channel and I would suggest you NOT use it because it adds an unnecessary component in the signal path that is redundant), you will also retain the EQing abilities of your HU…In theory if you stick to adjusting the freq's within the subwoofer region (at the HU) you'll have no problem shaping the subwoofer response…depending on the model of your Alpine HU you may also subwoofer TA adjustment.

Your HU may not have as flexible of tools as the DSP…but it certainly has some you can use.

Suggestions for channel usage and freq ranges (to start) would be:

CH 1&2 tweeters 4000hz HP

CH 3&4 5.25's 200/250hz-4000hz BP

CH 5&6 front 6x9's 60hz-200/250hz BP

CH 7&8 rear 6x9's 60hz HP (no LP)

Sub CH 70/80hz LP

Start with all crossover slopes @24db

This will give you a 3-way front, basically full range (60hz and up) rears for rear fill, and dedicated sub.

EQ and TA as you like.

On Wed, Nov 30, 2016 at 9:40 PM, John Kuthe wrote:

Quote Originally Posted by ilikeradios View Post

John - you will not get proper staging at all using the door speakers as full range.

You will not be able to do any time alignment using them like that either.

I was hoping you were going to set your front stage up as a 3 way

door speakers running 60-250 hz

dash speakers running 250 - 4,500 hz

tweeters 4,500 and up

That would be the best way to setup your system based on the equipment you have.

From NSTALN:

Running your system this way you will retain subwoofer level control right from the HU (you won't need the remote for the V9 sub channel and I would suggest you NOT use it because it adds an unnecessary component in the signal path that is redundant), you will also retain the EQing abilities of your HU…In theory if you stick to adjusting the freq's within the subwoofer region (at the HU) you'll have no problem shaping the subwoofer response…depending on the model of your Alpine HU you may also subwoofer TA adjustment.

Your HU may not have as flexible of tools as the DSP…but it certainly has some you can use.

Suggestions for channel usage and freq ranges (to start) would be:

CH 1&2 tweeters 4000hz HP

CH 3&4 5.25's 200/250hz-4000hz BP

CH 5&6 front 6x9's 60hz-200/250hz BP

CH 7&8 rear 6x9's 60hz HP (no LP)

Sub CH 70/80hz LP

Start with all crossover slopes @24db

This will give you a 3-way front, basically full range (60hz and up) rears for rear fill, and dedicated sub.

EQ and TA as you like.

On Wed, Nov 30, 2016 at 9:40 PM, John Kuthe wrote:

Quote Originally Posted by ilikeradios View Post

John - you will not get proper staging at all using the door speakers as full range.

You will not be able to do any time alignment using them like that either.

I was hoping you were going to set your front stage up as a 3 way

door speakers running 60-250 hz

dash speakers running 250 - 4,500 hz

tweeters 4,500 and up

That would be the best way to setup your system based on the equipment you have.
And I certainly DO know about basic parametric EQ and varying the center frequency and roll offs, although 24dB rolloff NSTALN suggests seems awfully steep! I'll try it at first, then play with widening it! LP, HP and BP, but what is the the remote for the sub? You mean the control knob? It's designed for the V9 and I'm keeping it. Works well!

John Kuthe...

 
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