My install's coming along nicely

[Hertz Mafia]

if you knew how you sounded to me you would just stfu.. lol

If u knew how you sounded to EVERYONE.. u would stfu //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/*******.gif.a649d21efc0d1fd4890a6428166586c1.gif

 

[The_Quiet_One 10+ year member]

Time and money sir…If I have one I don't seem to have the other…I'll be getting more locally active though…I really miss the car audio 'scene'. I wanted to attend the latest meet but I had family obligations that day. I would really like to pick the brains of some of the more experienced tuners in the area…I know I have a lot to learn.
I've been on an AudioFrog kick lately (speaking of Harmon…kinda)…Planning a Froggy 5.1 system powered by (2) JL 900/5HD's.

Hopefully you get a build log going. I look forward to it!

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

If u knew how you sounded to EVERYONE.. u would stfu //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/*******.gif.a649d21efc0d1fd4890a6428166586c1.gif

i sure know alot more than your *******..

 

[NSTALN 10+ year member]

Hopefully you get a build log going. I look forward to it!

There will be for sure…I may actually name the thread 'My install's coming along nicely II' hehehehehe

The plan is AF GB10's in A pillars, GB25's in upper door, GS693's in front door for mid bass, GS42 center channel, GS62's for rear fill. TC Sounds TC1000 15 for sub duty.

Here are a couple threads with to my current AF set-up:

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/626708-audiofrog-gb10-gb25-pillar-podz.html

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/626818-audiofrog-audiomobile-jl-audio-knu-concepts-false-floor-sub-enclosure.html

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I would think in the limited duty of dedicated mid bass a 6x9 would still be preferable to a round smaller 6.5 mid bass…even a 6.5 with an exotic motor will still likely see higher levels of distortion if driven hard enough to match the sound of the 6x9.
What I mean is (when modeled) an AudioFrog GB60 needs about 3 times the power as the GS693 to achieve the same SPL…I imagine at that power level (about 300rms) there would be a loss in BL as the cone/coil has to move so much more…and power compression could become an issue. The 6x9 would have such an 'easier' time producing the sound.

My apologies if my concepts are a bit off…like I said still learning.

Not sure if model and measure will add up. A couple of those DIYMA guys in the area own RTAs so if any of them are close-ish to you that'd be worth investigating. I get out your way every month or two and own an SPL meter but that's worthless above 100hz or so.

I do not believe that cone shape will be an issue. Assuming you can fiddle with locations/aiming and have some solid processing power you can likely work around anything that comes up and the shape of the driver should be very low on the list of potential problems. Have you ever heard planar mids/tweeters? They're freaking amazing and they're square or rectangular radiating surface.

There will be for sure…I may actually name the thread 'My install's coming along nicely II' hehehehehe
The plan is AF GB10's in A pillars, GB25's in upper door, GS693's in front door for mid bass, GS42 center channel, GS62's for rear fill. TC Sounds TC1000 15 for sub duty.

Here are a couple threads with to my current AF set-up:

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/626708-audiofrog-gb10-gb25-pillar-podz.html

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/626818-audiofrog-audiomobile-jl-audio-knu-concepts-false-floor-sub-enclosure.html

TC1000 is TC7 motor? I had some 2K's and absolutely loved them. Subs that actually play music nicely when tuned really low.

 

[jRi0T68]

Name the thread "My install isn't a shitshow. I'd make that thread myself, but my install is mostly done now, though I have a ton of progress pics. Besides, I doubt anyone really wants to see how I halfassed a 6th into the trunk of a Hyundai.

 

[NSTALN 10+ year member]

Not sure if model and measure will add up. A couple of those DIYMA guys in the area own RTAs so if any of them are close-ish to you that'd be worth investigating. I get out your way every month or two and own an SPL meter but that's worthless above 100hz or so.
I do not believe that cone shape will be an issue. Assuming you can fiddle with locations/aiming and have some solid processing power you can likely work around anything that comes up and the shape of the driver should be very low on the list of potential problems. Have you ever heard planar mids/tweeters? They're freaking amazing and they're square or rectangular radiating surface.

TC1000 is TC7 motor? I had some 2K's and absolutely loved them. Subs that actually play music nicely when tuned really low.

Processing will be handled by an Alpine PXA-H800. I allays wanted to play around with a set of Neo8 planers.

TC1000 is a TC2 I believe. Same set-up as the Epic.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Not sure if model and measure will add up. A couple of those DIYMA guys in the area own RTAs so if any of them are close-ish to you that'd be worth investigating. I get out your way every month or two and own an SPL meter but that's worthless above 100hz or so.
I do not believe that cone shape will be an issue. Assuming you can fiddle with locations/aiming and have some solid processing power you can likely work around anything that comes up and the shape of the driver should be very low on the list of potential problems. Have you ever heard planar mids/tweeters? They're freaking amazing and they're square or rectangular radiating surface.

TC1000 is TC7 motor? I had some 2K's and absolutely loved them. Subs that actually play music nicely when tuned really low.

What in the hell planar drivers have to do with our discussion?

I just explained why they aren't. Will they sound fine? Sure. Woukd i build a high dollar system around them? Hell no.

I explained clearly. Just guessing and suggesting its a easy fix is not only foolish but wrong as drivers are extremely distortion prone and its one of the hardest forms of distortion to "fix" .. Also tgey have poor dispurtion patterns and beam way faster than thier round counterparts..

 

[JohnKuthe]

This discussion has become SO far removed from my installation which is now finished!

John Kuthe...

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Lmao how does a windshield of a dodge caravan look cool.

This guy is lame....it's the slant more angled than any other windshield =coolness.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

This discussion has become SO far removed from my installation which is now finished!
John Kuthe...

No way....4 months later and it's finally done?

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

This discussion has become SO far removed from my installation which is now finished!
John Kuthe...

Sad part is. When something discussion worthy comes up idiots dont discuss

 

[JohnKuthe]

This guy is lame....it's the slant more angled than any other windshield =coolness.

Ask Chrysler why the Grand Caravan windshield is slanted so acutely. I didn't design or build them.

John Kuthe...

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

i sure know alot more than your *******..

Like running your mouth more than anybody here? Yeah that's believable.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

I would think in the limited duty of dedicated mid bass a 6x9 would still be preferable to a round smaller 6.5 mid bass…even a 6.5 with an exotic motor will still likely see higher levels of distortion if driven hard enough to match the sound of the 6x9.
What I mean is (when modeled) an AudioFrog GB60 needs about 3 times the power as the GS693 to achieve the same SPL…I imagine at that power level (about 300rms) there would be a loss in BL as the cone/coil has to move so much more…and power compression could become an issue. The 6x9 would have such an 'easier' time producing the sound.

My apologies if my concepts are a bit off…like I said still learning.

Alot more goes into a driver than displacment. Also you are talking about a driver that will play 80 to 500hz where excursion is much less a design issue. Where tte very things we are talkimg about can make or break a driver.

Even midbass can have complex passages where the driver tries to play 2 or maybe more signals inside a signal.

Anytime a speaker has to excurt alot its usually very bad.

In this case your not so much worried about a flat bl curve since your talking about very little mass and very little excursion. The real key is avoiding breakup,good dispertion patterens, proper dampening' and achiving great transiant response..