My first "Active" "SQ'ish" build attempt.

[ThxOne Premium Member]

All I did was put 10psi in the tire... came out to a flat that I didn't notice till I started driving. When I turned around to park it back at home, the tire came off the bead.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Fixed. It was the tiny O ring that comes pre-installed in the valve caps. It bunched up and was pushing on the valve stem and it let all the air out.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I decided to mess with my doors to get familiar with how to remove the panels, the connections and the speaker mounting option. I figured since I was in there, I would move my Kenwood eXcelon component set over from the Jeep just to see how the factory speaker pods react. The eXcelon woofers were too small. I figured, what the hell, let's put the SilverFlutes in. I had to massage them in but they are mounted tight to the pods with gasket foam. I did put the Stinger Fast Ring plugs behind the woofers. No window interference. The eXcelon tweeters fit great after minor trimming of the factory tweeter hole. Lastly, I tested the polarity of the woofers and tweeters with my polarity checker. Green Green Green Red. All is powered by the factory Monsoon amp. Sounds better than stock and holy cow did the tweeters wake up!!

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Interesting how GM did their Premium Monsoon sound systems. Clearly the amp is crossing over all the speakers. Tweeters are getting highs, those big old mids I just put in are band passed at minimum - no bass below 80hz I am guessing, the rear speakers are handling all the bass through the 6x9 woofer and the mids and highs are routed to the mid/tweeters on the 6x9. The 6x9's are aftermarket but I have them wired exactly as the factory two way 6x9's were.. bi-amped. So they expect ALL the bass to come from the 6x9's... that ***** because these SilverFlutes are killing the upper mid-bass and I know they will go lower than 50hz.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Got bored so I did some prep on the battery side of things. Thanks to another member, I was able to acquire a BIG 3 kit used some time ago. All 0 awg, All Kolossus Fleks OFC cables. I busted out my old Sky High Terminal and proceeded to make new connections. Alt to Batt +, Batt - to Intake Manifold Ground Bolt. Will add a chassis ground tomorrow. I also remade the factory connections so I could retain them.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Checked my speaker wires to make sure I have what I need.
I have 100ft 14awg ofc red and black - Gonna run this to my midbass (SilverFlute's)
I have 100ft 14awg ofc blue and black - Gonna run this to my mids (Digital Designs)
I just purchased 50ft 16awg ofc red and black - Gonna run this to my tweeters (Alpine's)
All wires are Sky High car audio brand. Apparently I still have a healthy amount, about 25 feet of 10awg subwoofer speaker wire. Yay.

I am going to have time off work to recover from my surgery so if I am able, I am going to run my speaker wires smartly. Two pairs of 14awg to each door and the single run of 16awg to each of the A-Pillars, to the tweeter pods.

The stereo sounds so anemic right now. It sounds like a stock stereo in a rental car from 1999. It's tolerable but not for much longer.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

So, I took out my drivers seat to repair the rear of the seat, cleaned up the interior a little bit, decided to repair the rear deck cover and fixed the third brake light... said screw it and dropped the headliner and yup, sure enough, both rear drain lines for the sunroof had come undone. I cleaned them, put them back together then taped them with tesa tape just for good measure. Now I have my sunroof back.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

One more piece to the puzzle 50ft of 16awg SkyHigh ofc for the tweeters.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Ok, I got my sunroof fixed!!!! It rained like a mother trucker earlier and not so much as a drop from the sunroof and no moisture smell!! Now I can get the wood for the board that will be the amp/DSP rack where the lower back seat used to be!! YAYYYY !

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I have been back and forth on my subwoofer situation. I love my little P3D4-10 and the thought occurred to me that I could run two of these little *******. So I put the parameters into WinISD and came up with 4 vented boxes... I was thinking that box #1, 3.0 cubic feet and tuned to 28hz looks great... But there are 3 others. Based on these graphs, which looks best to you? 1 ohm - 1200 - 1500w amp so 1000w`ish is what I would throw at them.

 

[blazian87 10+ year member]

I have been back and forth on my subwoofer situation. I love my little P3D4-10 and the thought occurred to me that I could run two of these little *******. So I put the parameters into WinISD and came up with 4 vented boxes... I was thinking that box #1, 3.0 cubic feet and tuned to 28hz looks great... But there are 3 others. Based on these graphs, which looks best to you? 1 ohm - 1200 - 1500w amp so 1000w`ish is what I would throw at them.

Yeah the 3.0 @ 28hz looks best out of the 4. You wouldn't want to tune any lower than that anyway. You should try graphing 30hz to see what you get.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Yeah the 3.0 @ 28hz looks best out of the 4. You wouldn't want to tune any lower than that anyway. You should try graphing 30hz to see what you get.

I did, It's not too much different than the 28... a lil more boosted from +3db to +4db and shifted right slightly, obviously. Still looks good. I think the 28hz tune would require less tuning in the 3sixty.3 in the end.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I ordered all my RCA cables... 90%on looks, I think they look great. These are for going from the source unit to the DSP. I also have short versions of the same brand, same model to go from the DSP out to the amps.
Knukonceptz Krystal RCA's

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Ok, I got my RCA's today... discovered I need 1 more 3ft set. (6 in - 8 out)

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I spent today replacing my drivers door, door lock actuator and my forward dome light/map light/sunroof control. Now my door switch functions properly activating my dome lights, auto window vent and radio on/off. Now all my interior lights are LED.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I ordered my Stinger 300a circuit breaker and some Knukonceptz 0awg - 0awg cable reducers. The "reducers" are going into the circuit breaker.

 

[shredder2]

Just me... I wouldn't tune under 30hz.
Cabin gain will help the low end a ton. Idk... how low is too low?.. for some people it's never low enough I guess.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Just me... I wouldn't tune under 30hz.
Cabin gain will help the low end a ton. Idk... how low is too low?.. for some people it's never low enough I guess.

No, that is actually a good point... I keep forgetting about that cabin gain thing. I have no way to know, though, what frequencies will be boosted by cabin gain.

 

[shredder2]

No, that is actually a good point... I keep forgetting about that cabin gain thing. I have no way to know, though, what frequencies will be boosted by cabin gain.

I understand the whole idea about flattening the response by tuning low, I'd play with volumes to flatten response in conjunction with a lowish tune.
Be careful... Larger volumes will give a peakier response irregardless and require more port area. A smaller volume may end up needing less port area but require a difficult port length if tuned to low.
Cabin gain ought to really help those lower notes anyways. I'm still unclear what type of response/goals your after.
I suppose it just depends how it models up to you and what you feel is gonna work, me? I like a punchier tune with accuracy and decent lows... not digging into the cellar.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I just want it to play sub bass frequencies (bass music occasionally) and reinforce kick drums, bass guitar, lower piano keys and the like daily on the regular. For example, when I listen to The Holly Cole Trio (Tennessee Waltz) and that upright bass kicks in... I want to feel as if I am sitting right in front of them... I want to feel the air coming off that upright bass and hear the finger plucks. I played guitar in a band for some time and I am not going for a representation of a quality recording... I know what the instruments sound like in person, that is what I want to re-create. If I hear a 18" ride bell I want it to sound like I am at Sam Ash hitting that bell, the same sound. If I hear an A power chord played through a Duncan TB4 humbucker through a Marshall TSL head and 4-12 cab... I want to be able to say yes, that is the right tone... and so on.