My first "Active" "SQ'ish" build attempt.


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ThxOne

ThxOne

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There is no comparison between the Alpine tweeters and the Kenwood eXcelon's. The Alpine's are night and day different. No sibilance where it was very noticeable with the eXcelon's. If I had to choose a discription... Bright and Tight. when I am able to put Barbara Ann back in the car we will see what these Alpine's can do. My Punch P3 sounds different with the signal running through the 3Sixty.3. It is the one speaker I did not adjust the EQ on. It sounds better though.
 
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ThxOne

ThxOne

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I added a little more gain for all the speakers in the car via the DSP. I also broke out my little test mic and did a rough RTA - EQing to the set-up. Should be good to go for a while. I was sitting at "104db" @ volume 25 of 33 with uncorrelated Pink Noise. At 33 (max undistorted volume) it is MUCH louder.
 
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ThxOne

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I just learned how to apply smoothing to REW... I will be re-eqing yet again lol. I am also shipping off Barbara Ann to Cali today to be repaired.
 
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ThxOne

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So no communication, no "Hey, this is what we found" no "Hey, the amplifier is fixed, it's on its way!!" I wake up this morning and my brother says hey, your package is on the couch.


Sent back in the same package... no notes in the box with the amp. I inspected the RCA input for channel #2 and it seems solid so I guess she is fixed. I will know as soon as I put her in the car and start from scratch with the 3sixty.3 :|

Glad she is back though.
 

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ThxOne

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Screw it. Now the amp is going into protect for no reason. The heatsink isn't even warm and it was playing superbly and then it just goes into protect. I think the RF 3Sixty.3 is throwing too much voltage at it. Maybe?
 

blazian87

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Screw it. Now the amp is going into protect for no reason. The heatsink isn't even warm and it was playing superbly and then it just goes into protect. I think the RF 3Sixty.3 is throwing too much voltage at it. Maybe?
How do you have it set up now? I would definitely lower the voltage for the tweeters on the 3Sixty.3. Since you’re going fully active and have a lot of power on tap, you need to be very minimal with the gains and you need to be careful with crossovers. Like start at 0 gains on all speakers and slowly move up the mid gains. Rely on your voltage rather than high gains.
 
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ThxOne

ThxOne

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How do you have it set up now? I would definitely lower the voltage for the tweeters on the 3Sixty.3. Since you’re going fully active and have a lot of power on tap, you need to be very minimal with the gains and you need to be careful with crossovers. Like start at 0 gains on all speakers and slowly move up the mid gains. Rely on your voltage rather than high gains.
I set the tweets with the RF Set-up Disc... 0db with a 4K tone... couldn't get the voltmeter to read correctly for some reason.
I set the Mids with the same disc 0db with a 1K tone... same issue.
The amp is after the 3Sixty.3
With the temporary amplifier borrowed from my sister, no issues whatsoever. The US Acoustics also pops when power is cut... the temp amp... nothing. I am aggravated.
 
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ThxOne

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I should say... I am looking for 20v at the speaker terminals of the amplifier. I know my SilverFlute 6.5" speakers will handle 100w rms (20v @ 4ohms) all day even though the Madisound website says 80w rms (17.88v @ 4ohms). I have them crossed at 70hz 12db and 3.5K at 12db. The Tweets are crossed at 3K @ 12db. The sub is by itself on the RF Punch 1200 amp @ 2ohms crossed at 100hz in the 3Sixty... let me just say, that little sub has no issues and is shaking the piss out of the car.
 

blazian87

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I can’t comment on the popping noise but I seriously would not use test tones for an active setup. For passives or for the sub I can understand, but not for active speakers. They are way more sensitive to the power you give em. You need to be far far away from clipping. I suspect your gains are way too high. Start over again at 0 gain and do it by ear. It will take hundreds of tries but you need to be patient. Find where your headunit clips first and take advantage of all your pre-voltage. Start very conservative on your crossovers and slowly meet half way until you are happy. It’s a learning process. And before you sent out your amp for warranty, did it pop before?
 

blazian87

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I should say... I am looking for 20v at the speaker terminals of the amplifier. I know my SilverFlute 6.5" speakers will handle 100w rms (20v @ 4ohms) all day even though the Madisound website says 80w rms (17.88v @ 4ohms). I have them crossed at 70hz 12db and 3.5K at 12db. The Tweets are crossed at 3K @ 12db. The sub is by itself on the RF Punch 1200 amp @ 2ohms crossed at 100hz in the 3Sixty... let me just say, that little sub has no issues and is shaking the piss out of the car.
IMO you have too much overlap with your crossovers especially if it’s at -12db. Try a smaller range and extend it slowly until you are content. Tweeters, start at 4k or higher. Mids, HPF at 2.5k LPF at 80 or 100. Subs at 80. That’s what I would start at and move it up or down based on your taste. Try experimenting with -24db crossovers if you’re gonna put them so close like that.
 
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ThxOne

ThxOne

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I can’t comment on the popping noise but I seriously would not use test tones for an active setup. For passives or for the sub I can understand, but not for active speakers. They are way more sensitive to the power you give em. You need to be far far away from clipping. I suspect your gains are way too high. Start over again at 0 gain and do it by ear. It will take hundreds of tries but you need to be patient. Find where your headunit clips first and take advantage of all your pre-voltage. Start very conservative on your crossovers and slowly meet half way until you are happy. It’s a learning process. And before you sent out your amp for warranty, did it pop before?
Yeah... it popped before. Let me go get my sisters laptop... dammit lol. 33 of 35 on the Kenwood is undistorted. Let me start from scratch. All is flat on the head unit... no "DSP" controlling from the head unit... DSP is bypassed on the eXcelon.
 
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ThxOne

ThxOne

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Ok... I think the gains on the amp may be a smidgen too high but I will deal with that tomorrow. I did reset the input level for the 3Sixty.3 and the max undistorted volume on the HU is back to 33 of 35. I changed some crossovers and redid the EQ's for the mids and highs. The amp did not go into protect. I will road test it tomorrow. Once the gains are brought down slightly it won't be as loud as I want it... but damn, it's clean right now when I lower the volume on the DSP remote 2 clicks... I mean clean. Those last two clicks make it almost unbearably loud... like I feel like I am gonna hurt the speakers. Not the sub... it's solid.

Ok, I Band-passed the sub. 32hz-80hz @ 24db
Reset the Mid-bass 80hz-2.5Khz @ 24db
Reset the Tweets 4Khz @ 24db
 

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ThxOne

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I have not one piece of sound dampening on my doors. None. After last nights readjustments, I am starting to get some noticeable midbass when the sub is muted. In fact, I played with it for a while with the sub off. I think sound dampening material would help tremendously with these SilverFlute speakers however, I don't think they are ideal for being in a door... something is just off about the sound they produce. They respond very very well to small EQ adjustments and their tone changes instantly but something seems odd about them. I will sound dampen the door eventually and see if that helps cure the weirdness that I can't put my finger on or if I will need a different type of cone.

What I am used to is an active set of near field studio monitors, literally 2.5ft away from me with an active servo subwoofer down on the floor and all I play is Hires audio through them. If I could get my doors to come close to the punch my monitors put out using 5.25" woofers with the 6.5" woofers the car has, I would be impressed and very satisfied.
 

blazian87

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I have not one piece of sound dampening on my doors. None. After last nights readjustments, I am starting to get some noticeable midbass when the sub is muted. In fact, I played with it for a while with the sub off. I think sound dampening material would help tremendously with these SilverFlute speakers however, I don't think they are ideal for being in a door... something is just off about the sound they produce. They respond very very well to small EQ adjustments and their tone changes instantly but something seems odd about them. I will sound dampen the door eventually and see if that helps cure the weirdness that I can't put my finger on or if I will need a different type of cone.

What I am used to is an active set of near field studio monitors, literally 2.5ft away from me with an active servo subwoofer down on the floor and all I play is Hires audio through them. If I could get my doors to come close to the punch my monitors put out using 5.25" woofers with the 6.5" woofers the car has, I would be impressed and very satisfied.
To me, it doesn’t make sense to put in aftermarket speakers and NOT put in deadener. It makes it sound worse than stock speakers. So much interference, you can’t even hear the actual speaker, you’re just listening to your door banging. The silverflutes are known to have good midbass so you are losing a lot of clarity just by putting it in a tincan beatbox machine. Also, you’ll notice when you use sharper slopes, it makes the midbass more pronounced so that is proably what you are noticing.

Keep the laptop handy because you’re gonna need to make little adjustments almost every time you get in the car. Take time to get used to each setting and do A/B comparisons. You can easily waste the whole day trying to figure this shiet out. Since your DSP can use bluetooth for tuning, you should take advantage of that so you don’t gotta clunk around a laptop everywhere you go. Welcome to the world of active tuning. It’s not gonna be a set it and forget it type of ordeal. Take the time to understand your system as a whole and play around with every possible adjustment you can. You wanna take this farther than you would have if you had went passive instead.
 
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ThxOne

ThxOne

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I don't have the Bluetooth dongle for the DSP... eventually I will. I have some sound dampening stuff here but it is some cheap stuff... I have my eyes set on some 117mil stuff. For now, I need to fix the gains on the 4 channel amp.
 
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ThxOne

ThxOne

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Saint Marys, GA
I just beat the dog snot out of the amp for a little over 30 min with different types of music at FULL VOLUME and it would not shut off. I can only surmise that before the adjustments last night, the input signal was clipping going into the amp... perhaps that was making it go into protect mode? The tweeters sound so damn good. They are off axis a bit but they sound tight.
 

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