most over-rated sub?

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as far as multi size sub setups... is the difference worth the price and work required? probly not... but it shure looks good sounds great and you can hear it coming from another state... besides like i said i got no concept of money... it was a challenge, a challenge that i succeded in, now i just have to succede in passing english and getting 1600 bucks fer the amps lol
Just curius, what are your X-over points between your mids, 10s, and 13s? And I dont wanna hear "well when I get my amps.....". What is your perfect setup x-over wise?

 
as far as multi size sub setups... is the difference worth the price and work required? probly not... but it shure looks good sounds great and you can hear it coming from another state... besides like i said i got no concept of money... it was a challenge, a challenge that i succeded in, now i just have to succede in passing english and getting 1600 bucks fer the amps lol
as long as you're happy.......... (personally i would have spent a lot less on subs and a lot more on front stage.. oh and get a single aura 18" instead of all those w6's... but that's just me)

anyways, i'd say fi btl, jl w7, type r, l7, solo x, jackhammer, audiobahn, and ... rf power line

 
I think you mean real time analyzer, not oscilloscope //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif


Please explain? I'm curious...
purty shure ya need an o scope to see cancellation but i'm not shure... thats what we used... i'll give you a simple explanation of why you "CAN" get better sound quality with multi sub setups... cause like a 2 way component the fewer frequencies that a speaker (or sub) has to respond to, the more accuratly it can reproduce the ones it does have to respond to... now different sizes have different resonance so are better suited to produce different frequencies... so it is logical ,if you are going to have 2 subs produce different frequency ranges, to have the subs different sizes.... i have so many 10's cause its purty close to equal with the 1 13 in terms of output and the lines are blured a bit so all of the subs play the frequencies they are weakest in... and the 13 is reverse mounted to avoid phase cancellation in the frequencies that they share

 
purty shure ya need an o scope to see cancellation but i'm not shure... thats what we used... i'll give you a simple explanation of why you "CAN" get better sound quality with multi sub setups... cause like a 2 way component the fewer frequencies that a speaker (or sub) has to respond to, the more accuratly it can reproduce the ones it does have to respond to... now different sizes have different resonance so are better suited to produce different frequencies... so it is logical ,if you are going to have 2 subs produce different frequency ranges, to have the subs different sizes.... i have so many 10's cause its purty close to equal with the 1 13 in terms of output and the lines are blured a bit so all of the subs play the frequencies they are weakest in... and the 13 is reverse mounted to avoid phase cancellation in the frequencies that they share
Oh my God.....//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif

 
Just curius, what are your X-over points between your mids, 10s, and 13s? And I dont wanna hear "well when I get my amps.....". What is your perfect setup x-over wise?
not shure about the mids i think they are 2nd order highpass at 80hz

they all are 4th order on the subs... 10's are 100-40 the 13 50and down

 
purty shure ya need an o scope to see cancellation but i'm not shure... thats what we used...
Umm...no. Oscilloscopes are used for signal tracing in circuits...whether it's internally or at the outputs of amplifiers. Cancellation is an acoustic property, not an electrical one.

i'll give you a simple explanation of why you "CAN" get better sound quality with multi sub setups... cause like a 2 way component the fewer frequencies that a speaker (or sub) has to respond to, the more accuratly it can reproduce the ones it does have to respond to...
I'll disagree with that generalization, but that's for another time...

now different sizes have different resonance so are better suited to produce different frequencies... so it is logical ,if you are going to have 2 subs produce different frequency ranges, to have the subs different sizes....
I could understand this if you had a "sub" like the PG Cyclone, that had an extreme rolloff due to its design and needed help to cover 30-50Hz...but most normal pistonic woofers have low enough inductance that they can cover the entire subbass spectrum pretty well.

If you're going to be at the NC meet, I have a friend with an RTA and calibrated measurement microphone //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif We could do a comparison between your setup and a single driver in a sealed alignment, see which has a smoother rolloff. I'm sure the forum would be curious //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
purty shure ya need an o scope to see cancellation but i'm not shure... thats what we used... i'll give you a simple explanation of why you "CAN" get better sound quality with multi sub setups... cause like a 2 way component the fewer frequencies that a speaker (or sub) has to respond to, the more accuratly it can reproduce the ones it does have to respond to... now different sizes have different resonance so are better suited to produce different frequencies... so it is logical ,if you are going to have 2 subs produce different frequency ranges, to have the subs different sizes.... i have so many 10's cause its purty close to equal with the 1 13 in terms of output and the lines are blured a bit so all of the subs play the frequencies they are weakest in... and the 13 is reverse mounted to avoid phase cancellation in the frequencies that they share
Are you saying that you have the 13 wired the same as the other woofers??

 
purty shure ya need an o scope to see cancellation but i'm not shure... thats what we used... i'll give you a simple explanation of why you "CAN" get better sound quality with multi sub setups... cause like a 2 way component the fewer frequencies that a speaker (or sub) has to respond to, the more accuratly it can reproduce the ones it does have to respond to... now different sizes have different resonance so are better suited to produce different frequencies... so it is logical ,if you are going to have 2 subs produce different frequency ranges, to have the subs different sizes.... i have so many 10's cause its purty close to equal with the 1 13 in terms of output and the lines are blured a bit so all of the subs play the frequencies they are weakest in... and the 13 is reverse mounted to avoid phase cancellation in the frequencies that they share
I normally try to stay out of **** like this but I gotta say, this made me laugh! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/hilarious.gif.02a037aad04aa96f19982b298a3d70a8.gif

 
purty shure ya need an o scope to see cancellation but i'm not shure... thats what we used... i'll give you a simple explanation of why you "CAN" get better sound quality with multi sub setups... cause like a 2 way component the fewer frequencies that a speaker (or sub) has to respond to, the more accuratly it can reproduce the ones it does have to respond to... now different sizes have different resonance so are better suited to produce different frequencies... so it is logical ,if you are going to have 2 subs produce different frequency ranges, to have the subs different sizes.... i have so many 10's cause its purty close to equal with the 1 13 in terms of output and the lines are blured a bit so all of the subs play the frequencies they are weakest in... and the 13 is reverse mounted to avoid phase cancellation in the frequencies that they share
Good lord. I so wanted to put that in my sig but it was too long! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif

 
idealy you would have one speaker that would cover the entire hearing range. since that isn't usually possible you have to break it up in sections. I.E. sub(s) , mids, highs. the less you can break them up the better you will be. know what i mean. so having tweeters and mids and mid basses and 10"s and 12" and 15"s isn't neccesary. and as far as inverting the sub the change the phase, you can always wire it out of phase or whatever you need, or you can usually change this on the fly with any deck that has a sub out put. i know my last three decks had a sub phase control on them.

 
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