local car shop guy told me i should sell/get rid of my XXX 18?

[TreyE 10+ year member]

i meant 30hz my bad

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

lets not be so quick to call "Tim" a dumb ass here guys..........we have not got the whole story frome the begining.
to make a acurate decision on what he needs we need to know every thing he has!?!?

as far as we know "tim" did know what all was going into the car...fist off what kind of car it was going into, what he is using for front stage, what he was powering the sub & front stage with......none of these things were stated in the first post and everybody was soooo quick to call "Tim" a dumb ass:wow:.

i think some of the lines "Tim" might have been thinking was in order for the front stage to keep up with the volume on a 18" sub of any brand or style the sub would need to be severley under driven to blend the music properly. correct?

so in order to blend front stage with bass output, 2 15's or 3 12's would be more appropriate when the sub is driven to its max potential.

i am not trying to dis anyone of you or your knowledge of car audio because i dont know any of you personaly, i am only going from my own 16 years of professional car audio experience.

tims a dumb ass because he called the 07 XXX a "one note wonder" because he doesn't recognize the brand.

 

[BreakingBad]

tims a dumb ass because he called the 07 XXX a "one note wonder" because he doesn't recognize the brand.

i wouldn't say dumbass.

but i would say inexperienced with more of the unknown brands. even though RE is a pretty known company in the bass world, outside in the mainstream brands it's pretty much non existant.

i can understand why he thought it would be a one note wonder.. because he's only used to things he's heard before.

even in 6 cubes@35hz in a sedan the thing dropped. turned heads all the time with volume super low..

now that i'm taking this sub from 6 cubes to 9, and tuning it to 30hz and putting it in an SUV...

people will probably ****.

now, when i have someone build the box...all they need is this correct:

18”

Mounting Depth - 14.75”

Mounting Hole Diameter - 17.375”

Overall Diameter - 19”

Bolt Hole Circle - 18.25”

Motor Width - 10.5”

Motor Depth - 5”

Basket Depth - 9.75”

Displacement - 0.30 cu. ft.

Weight - 78 lbs

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

i wouldn't say dumbass.
but i would say inexperienced with more of the unknown brands. even though RE is a pretty known company in the bass world, outside in the mainstream brands it's pretty much non existant.

i can understand why he thought it would be a one note wonder.. because he's only used to things he's heard before.

even in 6 cubes@35hz in a sedan the thing dropped. turned heads all the time with volume super low..

now that i'm taking this sub from 6 cubes to 9, and tuning it to 30hz and putting it in an SUV...

people will probably ****.

now, when i have someone build the box...all they need is this correct:

18”

Mounting Depth - 14.75”

Mounting Hole Diameter - 17.375”

Overall Diameter - 19”

Bolt Hole Circle - 18.25”

Motor Width - 10.5”

Motor Depth - 5”

Basket Depth - 9.75”

Displacement - 0.30 cu. ft.

Weight - 78 lbs

ok i wont call him a dumbass...ill use ignorant instead //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

as for the specs...your talking about building the box, or designing box plans? the only thing you need to design a box is the displacement, and motor depth. to build it, you only need the cutout diameter...which im assuming is the "mounting hole diameter".

well, you need to use those specs to make sure you make the baffle big enough to fit the sub cutout, but other than that the specs are pretty much worthless.

 

[BreakingBad]

figured i'd post some pics... 2007 XXX 18" vs 2006 SX 12"s

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

no offense, but i hate the way the new xxx's look //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[BreakingBad]

no offense, but i hate the way the new xxx's look //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

doesn't really matter... they all sit in a box.

so the top view is all that really matters...

but even that shouldn't, its all how it sounds. i think the xxx looks sexy.

 

[jeremiah 10+ year member]

whats the Xmax

 

[BreakingBad]

whats the Xmax

18”

Electrical Q Value -Qes: 0.68

Mechanical Q Value -Qms: 2.82

Total Speaker Q Value -Qts: 0.55

Free Air Resonance -Fs: 15.60 Hz

Equivalent Compliance -Vas: 482.0 liters

One-Way, Linear Excursion -Xmax: 54 mm

Efficiency -SPL 1W/1m: 86.20 dB SPL

Effective Piston Area -Sd: 1210 cm^2

DC Resistance -Re: 4.2 ohm

Nominal Impedance -Znom: Dual 2 ohm

Thermal Power Handling -Pe: 2000 W

Force Factor -Bl: 18.16

 

[bumpin buick 5,000+ posts]

agreed plus I have mine invert in my car so it does help if they look nice. No doubt its a kickass sub I just wish it was more compact its almost to long but im sure thats what they needed to do to make it work.

 

[BreakingBad]

yeh i'll be doing port back sub up since that's the most efficient from what i hear..

 

[azbass 5,000+ posts]

so i tried to explain to him RE XXX's are some of the most expensive and high-quality subwoofers, and the xxx's are specifically designed for sound quality.

what do yall think?

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/hilarious.gif.02a037aad04aa96f19982b298a3d70a8.gif

 

[snb778 5,000+ posts]

well, that 18" IS designed for the lower end of the spectrum. afterall that is why you got it right...to hit the lows better...which means your gonna tune it lower..and your mids would probably have quite a hard time droppin to 60-80hz with a decent volume...if they can hit that at all....maybe some midbass woofers??....

 

[BreakingBad]

well, that 18" IS designed for the lower end of the spectrum. afterall that is why you got it right...to hit the lows better...which means your gonna tune it lower..and your mids would probably have quite a hard time droppin to 60-80hz with a decent volume...if they can hit that at all....maybe some midbass woofers??....

what would you recommend for midbass woofers?

and do you just install them where your normal components were, or do you need kickpods or whatever?

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

...i think some of the lines "Tim" might have been thinking was in order for the front stage to keep up with the volume on a 18" sub of any brand or style the sub would need to be severley under driven to blend the music properly. correct?
so in order to blend front stage with bass output, 2 15's or 3 12's would be more appropriate when the sub is driven to its max potential.

i am not trying to dis anyone of you or your knowledge of car audio because i dont know any of you personaly, i am only going from my own 16 years of professional car audio experience.

now that is all good and dandy put my point here is now you are underdriving your sub........it will not perform to your expectations being underpowered.
that is why "tim" recomended multipule smaller woofers as apposed to a single larger one.

16 years of professional car audio experience, and you think driving smaller subs to their maximum excursion is better for SQ than is driving one larger sub to less of its potential? You do realize what you are calling 'underpowered' is the same thing as simply turning down the volume knob on the sub right? How's that hurt 'performance' beyond less output and less distortion? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif
The further a speaker's coil moves out of the gap, the more distortion it produces. Hence the spec 'xmax'. Therefore, if it takes the full excursion limit (or somewhere near it) of multiple smaller subs to reach the output level of a single larger sub playing at, say 50% of its excursion level, which system is working harder? Assuming the different sized subs are the same model otherwise, id take the larger sub playing at less potential. Less stress on the driver, and less excursion/distortion experienced to reach a given output level. And, more pontential to turn it up and 'bass out' my friend if I wanna play around a lil. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Headroom does not only apply to amplifiers.