just call me KeV 10+ year member
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Completing the rear part of the installation
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Completed the sound deadening for the entire rear seating area and rear doors.
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I made several mistakes with the process for the rear doors but I'm glad that I made them so that I don't repeat them on the front doors where it is more important. The rear doors will not have speakers in them so although I'm kicking myself for making the mistakes it's okay.
My thought process was to take the vapor barrier and use it as a template for the sound deadening. It sounded like a good idea at the time. Turns out that it really wasn't.
Here are the issues that I ran into:
1. There are way too many moving parts, open holes and wire harnesses running through the door to be able to realistically cover the entire thing in the same way that the vapor barrier does without creating issues. It looked nice but when I put the door back together the door lock wouldn't move freely so the solenoid could not activate electronically. Even after taking it apart again and attempting to move the sound deadener to allow more freedom it's still sticking a little. I tried to compensate for my error with the second door. I was a little more successful there but not much
2. I assumed erroneously that the interior of the door is a flat plane and it isn't. So when I went to tuck everything in to the places where I needed to go, it actually shrunk the material to the point where I was unable to complete the vapor barrier idea in a single go. I had to patch in additional pieces of material to compensate.
3. I didn't realize how tight the space is on the interior of a door. My plan was to add sound deadening to the interior metal and CCF to the interior of the plastic on the opposite side to decouple both planes. Turns out that just adding a layer of sound deadener created a lot of fit issues. I had to squeeze things back together until I was able to clip the door back to the frame. I ended up having to use the two screws to really tighten everything together enough so that the clips would even latch. The good news is considering how tight everything was there's no way it should rattle.
4. After I got the doors together for the second time I realized that I'd fail to put sound deadener inside of the holes of the door so that the outside sheet metal wouldn't rattle.
Dude... Yeah that all happened. I'm obviously going to have to approach the front doors in a completely different way.
Every car is a different puzzle and we have to be clever to solve them. Sometimes you have a gap of 3" between the door skin and the panel. Other times it's as tight as you've mentioned.
I used aluminum flashing cut to fit for the larger holes in the doors and deadened over that. you can get neoprene or ccf that is only an 1/8" if you thought you could squeeze it in. For your purpose you don't need to go to heroic levels of deadening esp. if the rear doors won't house any speakers. Remember you can always cut an access hole in the deadener later to access the inner door skin. Then replace it when you are done.
Looks good bro. You are on your way.