First build log ever

Completing the rear part of the installation

View attachment 41480View attachment 41481View attachment 41482

Completed the sound deadening for the entire rear seating area and rear doors.


View attachment 41478View attachment 41479

I made several mistakes with the process for the rear doors but I'm glad that I made them so that I don't repeat them on the front doors where it is more important. The rear doors will not have speakers in them so although I'm kicking myself for making the mistakes it's okay.

My thought process was to take the vapor barrier and use it as a template for the sound deadening. It sounded like a good idea at the time. Turns out that it really wasn't.

Here are the issues that I ran into:

1. There are way too many moving parts, open holes and wire harnesses running through the door to be able to realistically cover the entire thing in the same way that the vapor barrier does without creating issues. It looked nice but when I put the door back together the door lock wouldn't move freely so the solenoid could not activate electronically. Even after taking it apart again and attempting to move the sound deadener to allow more freedom it's still sticking a little. I tried to compensate for my error with the second door. I was a little more successful there but not much

2. I assumed erroneously that the interior of the door is a flat plane and it isn't. So when I went to tuck everything in to the places where I needed to go, it actually shrunk the material to the point where I was unable to complete the vapor barrier idea in a single go. I had to patch in additional pieces of material to compensate.

3. I didn't realize how tight the space is on the interior of a door. My plan was to add sound deadening to the interior metal and CCF to the interior of the plastic on the opposite side to decouple both planes. Turns out that just adding a layer of sound deadener created a lot of fit issues. I had to squeeze things back together until I was able to clip the door back to the frame. I ended up having to use the two screws to really tighten everything together enough so that the clips would even latch. The good news is considering how tight everything was there's no way it should rattle.

4. After I got the doors together for the second time I realized that I'd fail to put sound deadener inside of the holes of the door so that the outside sheet metal wouldn't rattle.

Dude... Yeah that all happened. I'm obviously going to have to approach the front doors in a completely different way.

Every car is a different puzzle and we have to be clever to solve them. Sometimes you have a gap of 3" between the door skin and the panel. Other times it's as tight as you've mentioned.
I used aluminum flashing cut to fit for the larger holes in the doors and deadened over that. you can get neoprene or ccf that is only an 1/8" if you thought you could squeeze it in. For your purpose you don't need to go to heroic levels of deadening esp. if the rear doors won't house any speakers. Remember you can always cut an access hole in the deadener later to access the inner door skin. Then replace it when you are done.
Looks good bro. You are on your way.
 
Sound deadening the floor and front seat area:

So instead of doing the front doors I decided to take the car completely apart and pull out the carpet. I have new black carpet going in there.

Here's some before pictures it was pretty nasty under there:

20220813_170957.jpg20220813_171000.jpg20220813_171005.jpg

Once I took the carpet out the first thing that I realized is that I needed to rerun all of the wiring to the trunk. It would have been much easier to run the wire along the floor instead of trying to fit it underneath all of the trim pieces. So I'm going to buy some more test tape wrap the wires up entirely and do exactly that before I put the new carpet in.

Here are the pictures after I completed the sound deadening:

20220813_191926.jpg20220813_191919.jpg20220813_191911.jpg20220813_191903.jpg

I didn't cover every single surface completely but I think I got enough to significantly reduce noise from every surface.

I'm also going to cover it with a layer of CCF because I have a lot of it and I'm unable to use it inside the doors because of panel tolerances. It may or may not help but it certainly can't hurt.

If anyone has any suggestions before I replace the carpet I would really appreciate it.

Heck I would even appreciate any suggestions on how to cut the carpet to fit inside the car correctly. My current plan is to wing it and go with the flow.

Lewis King
 
Sound deadening the floor and front seat area:

So instead of doing the front doors I decided to take the car completely apart and pull out the carpet. I have new black carpet going in there.

Here's some before pictures it was pretty nasty under there:

View attachment 41541View attachment 41542View attachment 41543

Once I took the carpet out the first thing that I realized is that I needed to rerun all of the wiring to the trunk. It would have been much easier to run the wire along the floor instead of trying to fit it underneath all of the trim pieces. So I'm going to buy some more test tape wrap the wires up entirely and do exactly that before I put the new carpet in.

Here are the pictures after I completed the sound deadening:

View attachment 41544View attachment 41545View attachment 41546View attachment 41547

I didn't cover every single surface completely but I think I got enough to significantly reduce noise from every surface.

I'm also going to cover it with a layer of CCF because I have a lot of it and I'm unable to use it inside the doors because of panel tolerances. It may or may not help but it certainly can't hurt.

If anyone has any suggestions before I replace the carpet I would really appreciate it.

Heck I would even appreciate any suggestions on how to cut the carpet to fit inside the car correctly. My current plan is to wing it and go with the flow.

Lewis King

Mass loaded vinyl would be better that closed cell foam for the floor. It will reflect alot of the road noise back out of the cabin.

The carpet I ordered for my truck had mlv on the back of it premolded and it did an excellent job of blocking road noise. I plan on adding a layer to my rear wall of my truck and the front wheel liners.
 
Mass loaded vinyl would be better that closed cell foam for the floor. It will reflect alot of the road noise back out of the cabin.

The carpet I ordered for my truck had mlv on the back of it premolded and it did an excellent job of blocking road noise. I plan on adding a layer to my rear wall of my truck and the front wheel liners.
The carpet I ordered actually had a thermal barrier but it's not mlv. The CCF is just another barrier to use. I have a lot of it so I figured why not use it?
 
Last edited:
Ok.
I didn't want to quote all of the photos to bloat your thread so here are a couple ideas. You should add the ccf over the deadener, but it should be used in conjunction with some mass loaded vinyl. 1 lb. per sq. ft. is great 2lb. would be better. I get mine online for around 100 bucks a roll but I think you can pick it up at the big box stores. Use tape to secure it. Do not bond it to any surface. It needs to float. We all float down here. haha
This is a great opportunity to sit down for about 30 minutes and think and make a list if there is anything else you would like to add to the car. Anything that will require running cables and wire from the front to the rear of the car. RCA's for extra amplifiers down the road? Power upgrades can mean more runs of power and ground. Definitely run + and - to the rear of the car if you can. What about a back up camera, More speaker wire? I like multiconductor myself. ( 16 ga. wires in a heavy loom. They can sit static under the carpet until you want to use them. LED's and internal lighting, etc.
Onto the carpeting. For me it has been hit or miss. I have done it on two cars. One was fitted for my 4runner and the other was a high dollar reinforced back carpet that I bought by the yard for my Malibu. It was easier to do Malibu. I took the original carpet and cleaned it then laid down the new material with super 77 (heavy tacky coat) and contact cement if I remember correctly.
They will say that it is a fitted replacement but it certainly isn't drop in and it may not even have holes for the e-brake and shifter. Spend as much time as you need getting it squared in the vehicle so you have a comfortable overhang on all sides. Get a good pair of fiskars or your favorite scissors from joann fabrics or Michaels.
Spend the money. It will be worth it. I have a pair of stainless steel shears that can run through leather hydes like paper. It's one of those tools you buy once every thirty years. Get a craft knife or good utility knife and when and if you cut make small graduated ones until you get it how you want. Leave some extra material under the door jams and around the shifter on the trans tunnel.
 
Last edited:
Mass loaded vinyl would be better that closed cell foam for the floor. It will reflect alot of the road noise back out of the cabin.

The carpet I ordered for my truck had mlv on the back of it premolded and it did an excellent job of blocking road noise. I plan on adding a layer to my rear wall of my truck and the front wheel liners.

It made my car a completely different animal once I put it in. I didn't realize how much noise was coming from the floor. That was the biggest change. Even after I treated all four doors
 
Ok.
I didn't want to quote all of the photos to bloat your thread so here are a couple ideas. You should add the ccf over the deadener, but it should be used in conjunction with some mass loaded vinyl. 1 lb. per sq. ft. is great 2lb. would be better. I get mine online for around 100 bucks a roll but I think you can pick it up at the big box stores. Use tape to secure it. Do not bond it to any surface. It needs to float. We all float down here. haha
This is a great opportunity to sit down for about 30 minutes and think and make a list if there is anything else you would like to add to the car. Anything that will require running cables and wire from the front to the rear of the car. RCA's for extra amplifiers down the road? Power upgrades can mean more runs of power and ground. Definitely run + and - to the rear of the car if you can. What about a back up camera, More speaker wire? I like multiconductor myself. ( 16 ga. wires in a heavy loom. They can sit static under the carpet until you want to use them. LED's and internal lighting, etc.
Onto the carpeting. For me it has been hit or miss. I have done it on two cars. One was fitted for my 4runner and the other was a high dollar reinforced back carpet that I bought by the yard for my Malibu. It was easier to do Malibu. I took the original carpet and cleaned it then laid down the new material with super 77 (heavy tacky coat) and contact cement if I remember correctly.
They will say that it is a fitted replacement but it certainly isn't drop in and it may not even have holes for the e-brake and shifter. Spend as much time as you need getting it squared in the vehicle so you have a comfortable overhang on all sides. Get a good pair of fiskars or your favorite scissors from joann fabrics or Michaels.
Spend the money. It will be worth it. I have a pair of stainless steel shears that can run through leather hydes like paper. It's one of those tools you buy once every thirty years. Get a craft knife or good utility knife and when and if you cut make small graduated ones until you get it how you want. Leave some extra material under the door jams and around the shifter on the trans tunnel.
Gotcha.

Thanks man I completely forgot about the RCA wires. That's def gonna change the game for me. Now I gotta fit for the receiver and send to the back as well.

I think for those I'm going down dead center below the center console and around the shift and e-brake. They'll be safe there and still plenty concealed there's actually a lot of space inside of there I found out. Plus it will keep them away from the speaker wire and the power wire to eliminate cross contamination between signals.

Dude, thanks again.
 
It made my car a completely different animal once I put it in. I didn't realize how much noise was coming from the floor. That was the biggest change. Even after I treated all four doors

Yea carpet completely changed how quiet my truck was.

I screwed up when I did my first larger system and removed the mlv off my rear wall. I need to add it back. I quieted it down alot with deadener but I was amazed how much noise came through the rear wall of my truck.

I've yet to touch my rear doors, my fronts are solid, my dash is solid, the floor has extra deadener, as does the rear wall. I really just need to do my roof and add mlv to the rear wall.

I don't do rear speakers so treating the rear doors is the last thing I'd do.
 
Yea carpet completely changed how quiet my truck was.

I screwed up when I did my first larger system and removed the mlv off my rear wall. I need to add it back. I quieted it down alot with deadener but I was amazed how much noise came through the rear wall of my truck.

I've yet to touch my rear doors, my fronts are solid, my dash is solid, the floor has extra deadener, as does the rear wall. I really just need to do my roof and add mlv to the rear wall.

I don't do rear speakers so treating the rear doors is the last thing I'd do.
Yeah a lot of people have been telling me to forget the rear speakers. But I'm so used to having them back there it would sound empty without something coming in behind me.

I understand the logic but it still feels kind of weird to me. I completely get why it's the way to go though.

Like when I really think about it, my goal for when I play music as far as where everything should be staged is for the singer to be dead center of the car. So that means for the driver he would be behind him and to the right.

Maybe it's because I never really went to any concerts or live performances so I don't have that as a frame of reference.

Lewis King
 
Yeah a lot of people have been telling me to forget the rear speakers. But I'm so used to having them back there it would sound empty without something coming in behind me.

I understand the logic but it still feels kind of weird to me. I completely get why it's the way to go though.

Like when I really think about it, my goal for when I play music as far as where everything should be staged is for the singer to be dead center of the car. So that means for the driver he would be behind him and to the right.

Maybe it's because I never really went to any concerts or live performances so I don't have that as a frame of reference.

Lewis King

I still have my stocks hooked up on deck power running 50-2600hz but since they aren't amped they are drowned out alot by the front. I don't really notice them unless I'm in the back seats.

I can't stand rear deck speakers in a car they drag the sound stage way back due to replacing off the back glass
 
Yeah a lot of people have been telling me to forget the rear speakers. But I'm so used to having them back there it would sound empty without something coming in behind me.

I understand the logic but it still feels kind of weird to me. I completely get why it's the way to go though.

Like when I really think about it, my goal for when I play music as far as where everything should be staged is for the singer to be dead center of the car. So that means for the driver he would be behind him and to the right.

Maybe it's because I never really went to any concerts or live performances so I don't have that as a frame of reference.

Lewis King
If you want to use the rear speakers and run them.. There is nothing that states that its wrong?? I like Rear speakers.. Gives me that Surround Sound Affect and fills a Void on some music. Just keep in mind..If the rear speakers are in the Rear deck rather than the doors sharing the same Air space/Trunk air space with any sub woofer. Those would need to be sealed off or capped off some how, like with wood, Plastic, or anything of the like so that the sub woofers air pressure doesnt push the rear speakers Cones to max them out and damage them.Just seal them off and they will last you. But just keep that in mind so the rear speakers dont get trashed/damaged.But.. Hey.. If you want to run rear speakers.. Do It!! Its your system, not Some other. You know.. Thanks for the suggestion, but I think Ill run Rear speakers. My passengers may thank me later
 
Yea carpet completely changed how quiet my truck was.

I screwed up when I did my first larger system and removed the mlv off my rear wall. I need to add it back. I quieted it down alot with deadener but I was amazed how much noise came through the rear wall of my truck.

I've yet to touch my rear doors, my fronts are solid, my dash is solid, the floor has extra deadener, as does the rear wall. I really just need to do my roof and add mlv to the rear wall.

I don't do rear speakers so treating the rear doors is the last thing I'd do.
Using the Fading control will generally work pretty easily for that issue, Ive found/used
 
Yeah a lot of people have been telling me to forget the rear speakers. But I'm so used to having them back there it would sound empty without something coming in behind me.

I understand the logic but it still feels kind of weird to me. I completely get why it's the way to go though.

Like when I really think about it, my goal for when I play music as far as where everything should be staged is for the singer to be dead center of the car. So that means for the driver he would be behind him and to the right.

Maybe it's because I never really went to any concerts or live performances so I don't have that as a frame of reference.

Lewis King
You watch a concert facing the band. The whole band should sound centered, not just the singer. That’s usually the goal of SQ guys. Music Is subjective though, so if it sounds better to you keeping rear speakers then that’s what you should do. What “should be” doesn’t really matter in the face of your enjoyment.
 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...

Similar threads

After the noise treatments in the doors, floor, and rear of the Camaro, I turned my attention to the firewall. These vehicles have a tube that...
40
5K
This build is more of a working novelty than a practical project. It turned out better than expected really. I'm going to make something similar...
18
2K
I think you're gonna have to get good with fiberglass or something, or find someone with a 3d laser scanner that can 3d print or mold you some...
7
601
I got to message a DD woofer builder a decent bit my last stent of box designing; they would send me designs to do for or with individual...
5
546

About this thread

Original wis

CarAudio.com Regular
Thread starter
Original wis
Joined
Location
79938
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
60
Views
17,021
Last reply date
Last reply from
Original wis
Screenshot 2024-03-07 184329.png

Doxquzme

    Mar 27, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_3075.jpeg

Daniel Lee

    Mar 27, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top