First Build in nearly a decade... send help

[TheCurator]

Ill try to keep this short as possible since it'll be long anyway, but I'm looking to install a system in my 2010 Subaru Forester and its been roughly 10 years since I've done an install, so I'm hoping to make a shopping list and checklist to make it as simple as possible. I'm aiming for more of a Sound quality build over an SPL, but id still like to feel a hit in the gut when i throw on some dubstep tunes. Ill also try to go in order / group together how id go about the build since id chip away at it over the course of 6 months or so, and would like to keep the price as low as possible, however the goal isnt a budget build so im willing to spend extra here or there

Phase One - Electrical Prep
1. AMG battery (taking recommendations, my only experience with one is a yellowtop. Did the job.)
2. New alt. ( I'm sure this will be dependent on the following build but ideally id like to not run a new Alt if i don't need to.
3. Big Three (Self explanatory)

Phase 2 - In between before final run
4. Head unit. Im open to ideas but my only experience is with an old kenwood. Navigation controls would be cool but if that comes with extra work for installation, well not worry about that, to me having time alignment controls is more important from the HU. Ill only be running a front stage and a sub amp so i need 2 RCA minimum if i recall correctly.

5. Door deadener - Never tried it, so would like to run some in both doors to see what's up.

Phase 3 - The main run
6. 6.5 Component Speakers - I used to run Polk DB 6501s and loved them, so id say anything a step up from those id be happy with
- Id prefer the tweeters fit behind the stock tweet grill simply because when i did ,y old build, the did not.... and i ghetto rigged them since im not experienced in making my own tweeter pods / door panels.

7.. Speaker Amp. - b2 quatro is what I'm experienced with, so something that sounds as clean as that amp did. (Ive seen they are discontinued these days otherwise id buy one again)

8. Subs - Im eyeing some Sundown SA-10s but debating going for some nice 8s? Ill mainly be playing metal and dubstep so i want the bass to be accurate. I've only ever ran 12s before.

9. Sub amp - Im thinking of running around 1k through the subs (500 a piece) so thats really my goal. I used to run a JBL 1400 and that thing set alarms off, so thats not exactly the goal with this build

10. Box - will probably make a thread once this one dies and the subs are known, i have a roughly outline for it, i just need someone to properly design it and possibly build it.

Extras : This is where ive seen all the fun stuff i didnt know existed because of youtube, so if anything extra comes to mind to help make this simple, lets do it. Ive seen people have some crazy battery terminal sets that look like they make car audio a breeze.

I know ill need to calculate the amount of 0Guage wire and 16 guage for speakers if im recalling correctly to make the runs for everything, are those correct sizes?

also back in the day i recall amping my speakers to behind the HU, but im curious / almost positive i can just amp straight into the speaker right? saving me from a removal while building this.

Ill try to check back and answer any questions or thoughts tonight but it may be a day before i return.

thanks in advanced and i really hope i didnt miss anything

Click to read more...

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

The Duracell agm batteries are good and reasonably price

 

[fa5chups]

resonix i have been told is the way to go with sound deadening
hes got a in depth 3 video tutorial on doors, heres pt1
i still havent done it but wast old by my it will pretty much make or break the midbass in the doors
(on top of adding to the listening expierence as a whole)


and 0ga from battery lets you upgrade later on without having to re-run power wire
the 8ga kit on crutchfeilds website says its good for 420w with class AB or 600 class D
dont quote me but 16ga for speaker wire i think sounds right for 100w , i have 16 but only 50w/ch
skyhigh caraudio is what ive been recommended as far as the prefered company

headunit i just picked one off crutchfeild since they have an option to get a installation clip/harness pre soldered onto the head unit which made install plug and play only $25
i got the kenwood dmx709s excelon worked well so far no complaints, it is my first headunit so i dont have anything to compare it too
general stuff not sure what else you would want except for dvd but they have a model with a dvd player as well
6 5v preouts
13band eq (assuming your not running a dsp, if so helix is the move)
wired carplay or bluetooth

if your open to it helix has powered dsps not sure what all the models they have but im planning to run a 10 channel with 6 powered at like 115w and then 4 open for subs

just seen this on forums idk the creidbility but somone testing sound deadening brands

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

resonix i have been told is the way to go with sound deadening
hes got a in depth 3 video tutorial on doors, heres pt1
i still havent done it but wast old by my it will pretty much make or break the midbass in the doors
(on top of adding to the listening expierence as a whole)


and 0ga from battery lets you upgrade later on without having to re-run power wire
the 8ga kit on crutchfeilds website says its good for 420w with class AB or 600 class D
dont quote me but 16ga for speaker wire i think sounds right for 100w , i have 16 but only 50w/ch
skyhigh caraudio is what ive been recommended as far as the prefered company

headunit i just picked one off crutchfeild since they have an option to get a installation clip/harness pre soldered onto the head unit which made install plug and play only $25
i got the kenwood dmx709s excelon worked well so far no complaints, it is my first headunit so i dont have anything to compare it too
general stuff not sure what else you would want except for dvd but they have a model with a dvd player as well
6 5v preouts
13band eq (assuming your not running a dsp, if so helix is the move)
wired carplay or bluetooth

if your open to it helix has powered dsps not sure what all the models they have but im planning to run a 10 channel with 6 powered at like 115w and then 4 open for subs

just seen this on forums idk the creidbility but somone testing sound deadening brands
View attachment 63323

Unless you're building an EMMA car or chasing pitch perfect sq...save some money and go with something else on that list...resonix isn't easy on the cc

 

[fa5chups]

Unless you're building an EMMA car or chasing pitch perfect sq...save some money and go with something else on that list...resonix isn't easy on the cc

oh for sure it gets expensive easy 700 for their stg 3 2-door kit pretty pricey
his videos though are pretty in depth and gives tips on things that are effective or not-effective
also figured why them test results would be helpful in finding alternatives

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

Cdt speakers offer good value for the price and sound really in my opinion.

Dayton audio has some really good 10's and 12's and carry a 5 year warranty...buy them through parts-express.com and you get really good customer service on top of it.

 

[TheCurator]

anyone got experience with sundown speakers for a front stage ? they worth ? sorry for the delay. family matters took me away lolz

 

[brianksubs]

I’m in the same boat. First build since I was a kid.
I’m documenting in my build thread.

I’m doing a lot of sound deadening in the build. I’m using a ssk wavy closed cell insiide the doors then I used a traditional sound deadening on cabin facing side of door sealing all holes in process.

The ssk stuff is really easy to use. Build is in process so I can’t say how it sounds. The door seams more solid since work.

 

[TheCurator]

I’m in the same boat. First build since I was a kid.
I’m documenting in my build thread.

I’m doing a lot of sound deadening in the build. I’m using a ssk wavy closed cell insiide the doors then I used a traditional sound deadening on cabin facing side of door sealing all holes in process.

The ssk stuff is really easy to use. Build is in process so I can’t say how it sounds. The door seams more solid since work.

got a link? i honestly imagine the amount od deadener i do and use will simply come down to if im feeling lazy those days or not !

 

[TheCurator]

UPDATE: so after some research i think ive dialed in a few parts that im curious what you all think.

Speakers:
I honestly am debating running some Polk DB 6502 up front (unless someone can recommend better)

the amp for those im looking at the CT 80.4 AB , and bridging the front stage to 4 ohms pushing 160 watts ( i used to bridge a b2 on some db 6501s and they took the beating so imagine the new versions could also.)

Subs:

B2 Riot 10s (x2)

Amp: CT 1500.1

any thoughts ? im trying to keep this build to not needing a new alt unless absolutely necessary (They appear to be real budget killers)

 

[TheCurator]

Slight update to the wishlist and looking for input

Speakers: b2 Riot 6.5s or polk db 6502 (would love input on this)

Amp: b2 2 rage 800.4 (how small it is though kind of turns me off, ive never seen an amp that small, so would love input here as well.

Subs: b2 Riot 10s (still debating sealed or ported)

Sub amp: Still searching but its easy to find an amp thatll hit 1500watts or less which is my goal

well start here and if theres replies, ill dig a little deeper to finalize electrical and such.

The goal is to finalize this list with this forum and then move over to a "follow me build this" thread as i build it ! So would love any and all input !

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

ive never seen an amp that small, so would love input here as well.

I had a taramps ts400x4 that was barely bigger than my hand...never had any issue with it other than wanting mo' powa

 

[TheCurator]

I had a taramps ts400x4 that was barely bigger than my hand...never had any issue with it other than wanting mo' powa

so is this just how amps are these days ? i hate to be all "back in my day amps didnt fit under the seat" but, well, thats what im used to

i used to run a quarto from them but its discod sadly. The most memorable amp I've ever owned honestly, i think that's why im trying a few of there products on this build

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

so is this just how amps are these days ? i hate to be all "back in my day amps didnt fit under the seat" but, well, thats what im used to

Class d amps are insanely efficient so they don't generate as much heat as the ol' school ab grilled cheese makers. They can get away with smaller heatsinks that and the board designs... you can end with pocket sized amps that are solid

 

[TheCurator]

Class d amps are insanely efficient so they don't generate as much heat as the ol' school ab grilled cheese makers. They can get away with smaller heatsinks that and the board designs... you can end with pocket sized amps that are solid

so what im hearing is.... trust the rage