crossover question

just sound deadened my entire car (inner and outter door skin) and I'm going to be installing an eu-700 and the 4" mid (from a cdt cl-41 compenent system) in the doors with the tweeters in the a-pillar. the cdt's will be powered from one amp and the eu-700's from a seperate amp. to round out the system there will be either 2 or 4 eu-700's in the trunk powered from a third amp. I will be getting a zapco slx-4 to direct the signals to where they need to go... now my question.

I was going to try to crossover the 4" components above 115hz

the eu-700's at 115-45hz

and the subs below 45hz

do you think the eu's in the doors can play that low while still keeping true to being a midbass driver? I've read that the eu's are effective as a midbass as long as they are in a certain range.

any advice, tips?

thanks

 
eu700's arent midbass drivers.

they might sound pretty good at ~115 i guess. and they should play down to 45hz no problem.

but what amp are you powering the tweeters with? are you using the passive crossover for the tweet\mid? and then adding a highpass to the signal chain at the amp or another external processor?

i would just stick to the EU700's in the door and use some nice sounding 10's or 12's in the trunk for bass duty.

and what kind of processor aer you going to actually be using for all of this?

 
from what i've read at icix and from the ED site, they can be used (successfuly)as a mid bass drivers as long as they aren't doing dual-duty as a sub too.

my setup consists of a car-pc with a pro-audio soundcard (external dac with 5.75 vrms balaned outputs) that will go into the zapco slx-4 crossover (balanced) from there the cdt's will be powered by a phaze (butler built) tube amp (150 wrms x2) using the supplied passive x-over as well. The eu's will be powered by a second phaze tube amp. Finally the eu's in the rear will be powered by a phoenix gold zx475 at 150wrms each

as far as using a larger sub, I have a single 12" ID sub in there right now but i'm looking to sneak the eu's into some of the cuby holes in the rear to try to save some space. The car is a chevy corvette convertable so there is no wall dividing the trunk from the cabin. I think 4 eu's (in the trunk) will fill in the sub frequencies nicely, so i'm optimistic on not putting the ID sub back in there, but i wont rule it out.

edit:

just to give some further insight on my audio taste, i am not one for earth shaking bass. I like it to be present as it was recorded but don't really need it to overtake the system. Something that will make TOOL sound great is a must though :)

 
cool, i would rather listen to the id sub tbh, i have 2 IDQ15's gettin a few hundred watts IB, and i have the same tastes as you, i like to be able to have bass when im in the mood, but i usually like a nice authoritive kick drum.

but the eu700's can do what you want, like you said, as long they arent doing doubleduty like you said. the eu700 CAN do midbass, but not over a few hundred hz. so if you are only going up to ~120 you should be good. imo - not the greatest drivers for the job, but they should work.

what are the specs of the crossover?

and you could prolly fiberglass the Eu700's nicely in the hatch behind the rear-seats and get it lookin real nice.

 
cool, i would rather listen to the id sub tbh, i have 2 IDQ15's gettin a few hundred watts IB, and i have the same tastes as you, i like to be able to have bass when im in the mood, but i usually like a nice authoritive kick drum.
but the eu700's can do what you want, like you said, as long they arent doing doubleduty like you said. the eu700 CAN do midbass, but not over a few hundred hz. so if you are only going up to ~120 you should be good. imo - not the greatest drivers for the job, but they should work.

what are the specs of the crossover?

and you could prolly fiberglass the Eu700's nicely in the hatch behind the rear-seats and get it lookin real nice.
here are the specs:

Code:
Max Output Level:
- Balanced: 15 volts
- Unbalanced: 7.5 volts

Input Impedence: 4.75k ohms

Output Impedence: 680 ohms
Separate Inputs for Front, Rear and Sub

THD + Noise: <0.002%

S/N Ratio: >105dB

Stereo Separation: >80dB
I'm kinda stuck with this one (though i do believe it's a fine unit) because it's the only balanced active x-over i've found short of dj equipment. Since my amps and soundcard have balanced in/outputs i'd love to take advantage of this

thanks for the quick replies too

 
um, yea i didnt mean those specs, i mean the actual crossover slopes and inputs\outputs and what actual kinds of crossovers you got, for example my crossover is a autotek FX-5A and it will do this;

all at 2nd order;

input 1: High Pass: 1K-8KHz

input 1: bandpass: High Pass: 90-1kHz ; Low Pass: 1K-8KHz

input 2: bandpass: High Pass: 90-1KHz ; Low Pass: 1K-8KHz

input 2: Low Pass: 90-1KHz

input 2: Low Pass: 40-90Hz

 
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