Alex's Silverado

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

For those reading who don't know, a typical 12v car battery is made of 6 cells. At rest, the total bank of cells sits around 12.6v fully charged. That is 2.1v per cell. Max recommended charging is 15v, so 2.5v per cell. Fully charged and max charge, each cell fluctuates .4v.

With the 4 cell lithium 12v batteries, each cell sits at 3.15v fully charged and can only be charged up to 3.7v each (14.8v total)

With these cells, the bank of 5 would sit at 15.75 and have a max charge of 18.5v. Standard charging should be a minimum of 17v, which would be about a volt above my amps' safe range.

Keep in mind, charging the 16v battery at 17v is numerically the same as charging a 12v battery at 13.7v. It will work, but is not what most people will consider ideal.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

As I am now, I'm way overkill on battery with the AGM's. If the cap bank isn't sufficient, I can either add more caps or add AGM's if I don't sell them all. I just want less weight in my daily driver. If I do sell all my AGM's, the owner of the shop I used to work at said he would sell me batteries at cost. I can just drive to his distributor and pick some up using the company rate.
Several companies make 16v lithiums that charge at 18v+, but my amps are only stable up to about 16.2v daily. I wouldn't be able to properly charge my batteries while maintaining a safe voltage for the amps. I was unable to find a company that makes 14v lithiums (that would charge around 16v).

Capacitors are in banks of 2.7v cells. 12v lithium car audio batteries are a bank of 4 cells. The 16v batteries are a bank of 5 cells. The cells they use are higher voltage than capacitor cells (and the internal cells of regular 12v car batteries). Because of this, they don't make 14v banks.

If your amp isn't built for 18V I'd steer away from going over 14.8. What you'll gain will never be worth the risk. MOSFETs do not like over-voltage, and failure is nearly instantaneous.

Sounds like a great plan though. You've come a long way from the Fiero days.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

If your amp isn't built for 18V I'd steer away from going over 14.8. What you'll gain will never be worth the risk. MOSFETs do not like over-voltage, and failure is nearly instantaneous.
Sounds like a great plan though. You've come a long way from the Fiero days.

The company states that the amps are indeed fine at 16v. They protect at voltages above that. I'll probably keep it around 15.5v daily.

Thanks.

I'll see if I can easily build a small model of my removable baffle idea or mach it up on sketchup

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

The company states that the amps are indeed fine at 16v. They protect at voltages above that. I'll probably keep it around 15.5v daily.
Thanks.

I'll see if I can easily build a small model of my removable baffle idea or mach it up on sketchup

Still dunno why you're so hung up on voltage.

I get the premise of your idea, pretty much what I've considered, but I'm lacking the tools to make it happen. I mean I just want to see it IRL.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Still dunno why you're so hung up on voltage.
I get the premise of your idea, pretty much what I've considered, but I'm lacking the tools to make it happen. I mean I just want to see it IRL.

I want the highest voltage that's safe, and i want to properly charge the batteries for maximum life.

Here is a video explaining my idea for the removable baffle. Just made it on Windows "3D builder" lol

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Also, just uploaded a short video of my truck getting completely gutted

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I want the highest voltage that's safe, and i want to properly charge the batteries for maximum life.
Here is a video explaining my idea for the removable baffle. Just made it on Windows "3D builder" lol

I also consider angle iron frame as a start, I'd consider that almost a must. I had thought to have bolts coming out from the angle iron (to fit through holes drilled in your baffle) an fastening down with huge wing nuts. Bracing along the center with eye bolts and turnbuckles should be easy enough. Some caulking rope or even weather stripping will make an adequate air seal.

The tricky bit (apart from welding and tapping) is how the baffle lines up flush on the port side. Assuming you want to just use the top or driver's side as the port. Also if you need some port depth, getting the part that sticks into the box airtight may be tricky (removable angle iron and more gasket?) Thoughts?

I badly need access to a metal shop.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I also consider angle iron frame as a start, I'd consider that almost a must. I had thought to have bolts coming out from the angle iron (to fit through holes drilled in your baffle) an fastening down with huge wing nuts. Bracing along the center with eye bolts and turnbuckles should be easy enough. Some caulking rope or even weather stripping will make an adequate air seal.
The tricky bit (apart from welding and tapping) is how the baffle lines up flush on the port side. Assuming you want to just use the top or driver's side as the port. Also if you need some port depth, getting the part that sticks into the box airtight may be tricky (removable angle iron and more gasket?) Thoughts?

I badly need access to a metal shop.

I was also thinking about the possibility of an aeroport that would mount into the baffle. I could get a 20" (or whatever size I need) PVC storm drain tube and mount that in the center of the baffle, and adjust the length as needed. One warden or two Soundrive subs on each side of the port

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I was also thinking about the possibility of an aeroport that would mount into the baffle. I could get a 20" (or whatever size I need) PVC storm drain tube and mount that in the center of the baffle, and adjust the length as needed. One warden or two Soundrive subs on each side of the port

That works. I hadn't considered round or central port.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

why don't you make a subframe where to can put a sealed around the shoulder and bolt into the subframe?

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

why don't you make a subframe where to can put a sealed around the shoulder and bolt into the subframe?

Explain. I don't follow

 

[los33 10+ year member]

why don't you make a subframe where to can put a sealed around the shoulder and bolt into the subframe?

English mfkr

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Explain. I don't follow

You've been away so you probably didn't get the memo, but most of us have just put that illiterate on our ignore list.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Explain. I don't follow

what you have looks good but instead of bolting on the face of the box, bolt the port on the inside of the structure..

aka the ports depth to the ports sub-frame instead of the face so you can use a seal on the face of the port where its mounted to the box. They also have washers you can get that have a seal built onto the washer..

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

Also, just uploaded a short video of my truck getting completely gutted

What a mess. Removing that plasti dip from the windows reminds me of peeling skin off after a sunburn.