'97 Town Car "King Kongs" *No56k*

[billabongcr 5,000+ posts]

The only thing I dont like about the HU is only one set of pre outs but I ordered a couple of y cables so its all good. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/woot.gif.aaa6090e619a97b6090d16dd863c5a69.gif

worked out perfect for me

 

[invision]

lol. the screw head sticking out. id not pay money for that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

You should learn to see outside of the box... lol! He's probably not done with that enclosure after all it has no top portion on it, so stop hatin' and start congratulatin'. I don't see any of your own enclosure pics posted here only you and your "transportation" so beat it little boy!

IV Admin

 

[ballstothewall 10+ year member]

You should learn to see outside of the box... lol! He's probably not done with that enclosure after all it has no top portion on it, so stop hatin' and start congratulatin'. I don't see any of your own enclosure pics posted here only you and your "transportation" so beat it little boy!
IV Admin

lawl, you obviously haven't seen mike1's work....

 

[stuckinok 5,000+ posts]

Man you are a true friend for hooking all that up for so little cash lol

 

[mrray13 10+ year member]

chris, man o man....

to take the screws out and solely depend upon the glue...i wouldn't pay for that. yes, i know the majority of the strength comes from the physical bonding of the glue, but if you generate enough pressure....and yep, i've seen it a few times over. my advice? keep the screws in, and countersink them. if your bondoing the box anyway, it's not going to take any longer to fill with then it would without. and if you countersink, you can always router with the base on the screw side to avoid indentions as well.

and invision, disagreeing with you again. azbass can install circles around this kid. and that's not being offensive to cbfryman, but mike1 (azbass) is that good. do a little research before opening your keyboard.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/peace.gif.2db28b618ed8d1964ebbe2f5021d2c39.gif

 

[CBFryman2 5,000+ posts]

agian, you do understand that carbide bits at 15000 RPM and screws dont mix right?

I've build boxes using strictly clamps and glue and they are just as structurally strong as boxes with the screws left in. This isnt going to be a 170dB set up that has the ability to shear wood. In order for the screws in the ends to add any stuctural integrity to the enclosure the forces on it would have to be so great that the wood would tear.

I understand your concerns but agian, this thread isn't about the mechanics of my enclosure construction process. Beleive it or not I've built and installed an enclosure or two in the past few years. I'm sorry for the hostility but screws on the edges of the wood simply are not going to add anything to this box. If you can show me defenetive results where screws kept a joint togather that was bonded correctly with wood glue I will tear the box down and start over.

 

[JohnBlayz142 10+ year member]

Looks good so far, I'm interested to see the outcome as well.

It seems to me that the roundover work and removal of screws shouldn't come with the price you are charging. The box will sound the same if you do neither of those things. I would have just built it, rounded the port, and slapped some carpet or paint over it.

People can't expect custom work without a custom price tag.

But good job so far, I like.

 

[Chevyaudio 5,000+ posts]

agian, you do understand that carbide bits at 15000 RPM and screws dont mix right?
I've build boxes using strictly clamps and glue and they are just as structurally strong as boxes with the screws left in. This isnt going to be a 170dB set up that has the ability to shear wood. In order for the screws in the ends to add any stuctural integrity to the enclosure the forces on it would have to be so great that the wood would tear.

I understand your concerns but agian, this thread isn't about the mechanics of my enclosure construction process. Beleive it or not I've built and installed an enclosure or two in the past few years. I'm sorry for the hostility but screws on the edges of the wood simply are not going to add anything to this box. If you can show me defenetive results where screws kept a joint togather that was bonded correctly with wood glue I will tear the box down and start over.

Just saying that you are taking to many steps by taking screws out...Unless you are doing like a huge roundover I hav never had a problem with hitting a screw.

 

[CBFryman2 5,000+ posts]

Primer is rolled on 5 of the 6 sides. 2 costs out of the 3 anyway. I'll get pics up in a bit. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[CBFryman2 5,000+ posts]

 

[Chevyaudio 5,000+ posts]

not exactly the best enviroment to do a painted finish.

 

[baseballer1100 5,000+ posts]

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/word.gif.64b12e39f936af3b4fff38a1c0bd0244.gif

 

[CBFryman2 5,000+ posts]

The paint I'm using will cover any imperfections. It's high build so I need to sand it one last time with 150-200 before I do the final coat anyway. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Calikid 5,000+ posts]

and where are you going to add the final coat???

 

[Chevyaudio 5,000+ posts]

You are doing bedliner correct...

Just because its highbuild, doesnt mean its goning to cover up dust and debris in the finish...

I know, Ive used both the can and the automotive grade lineX stuff. It can be just a fickle as paint.