'97 Town Car "King Kongs" *No56k*

It's probably already halfway paid for it'self if you consider the local shop charges $10 a run on the AC.
In other words

mcdonalds.jpg
lol...

well if you ever need a second just holler //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

 
Bracing will be 2x4's One two each side. Basically acting like battons. There will be side to side and top to bottom braces but front to back is out of the question. As you can see the port terminates right where there is actually room on the baffle. So the baffle is doubled and will be screwed to the ends of both top and bottom battons. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Amps will be mounted somewhere on the enclosure. We will see how everything sizes up and looks once the box is in the trunk and go from there. Wire gets here monday I think.

 

Just a tip, but you can avoid the indentions in the roundover by filling in the screw holes with filler prior to routering.

And the comment about using screws, "the poor man clamp". Why would you bother removing the screws once you have already put them in? Why not just leave them in? Seems like a waste of time.

 
Just a tip, but you can avoid the indentions in the roundover by filling in the screw holes with filler prior to routering.
And the comment about using screws, "the poor man clamp". Why would you bother removing the screws once you have already put them in? Why not just leave them in? Seems like a waste of time.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/word.gif.64b12e39f936af3b4fff38a1c0bd0244.gif i would really take this guys advice.

 
Just a tip, but you can avoid the indentions in the roundover by filling in the screw holes with filler prior to routering.
And the comment about using screws, "the poor man clamp". Why would you bother removing the screws once you have already put them in? Why not just leave them in? Seems like a waste of time.
indeed.

 
I didn't know "Toothless Joe" from the trailer park made such nice boxes...

Looks good.. The sub does look a bit close to the edge though, scrap it and start again? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Just a tip, but you can avoid the indentions in the roundover by filling in the screw holes with filler prior to routering.
And the comment about using screws, "the poor man clamp". Why would you bother removing the screws once you have already put them in? Why not just leave them in? Seems like a waste of time.
Yeah I thought of that after I ran it over. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

As far as removeing the screws? Well it saves me time not having to countersink (though I have to spend time removeing them) and carbine at 15,000 RPM meeting steel = $20 bit down the drain. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
I didn't know "Toothless Joe" from the trailer park made such nice boxes...
Looks good.. The sub does look a bit close to the edge though, scrap it and start again? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
It's hard fitting two 15" subs on a 36.5" wide baffle with a 5" wide port using 3/4" wood. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
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