6 1/2" sub recommendations

[jmcinvale 10+ year member]

I have a 2016 Toyota Camry with rear deck speakers and later this year I'm going to put in a system.

For obvious reasons I do not want to put 2 or 3 way speakers in the rear deck locations so I thought why not put a couple subs there instead along with a single JL 12W6V2 in the trunk.

I do have a JBL MS-8 processor and will be running the front door speakers and dash tweeters on their own amps.

Figure I can just set the processor to three way speakers with sub.

What sub would y'all recommend that can be run in free air and handle at least 150 watts of power?

What speaker adapters would I need to use with the subs so that they mount up properly?

Also what crossover frequency should I use for the JL sub and the 6 1/2" subs?

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[Jroo 10+ year member]

what frequency range do you want the subs to run? What you are trying to do has been done, but takes work and tuning. Since you have the 12 are you tying to pick up something you are missing? If you have an MS8 and decent front stage, I wouldn't worry or run rears or subs on the rear deck. I would run your front stage down to about 80 and let the sub pick up from there.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Bad idea really bad idea. Id run a 3 way with a midbass in the door before id do that..

 

[youdoofus]

Bad idea really bad idea. Id run a 3 way with a midbass in the door before id do that..

^^^^ this ^^^^

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

If this is your criteria..Id recommend looking at some CDT HD6.5s..American Bass also..Ive had great luck with both.A pair of older Elemental Designs were some of the cleanest little monsters Ive ever owned and ran to be honest.

 

[jmcinvale 10+ year member]

I had actually looked at the CDT speakers, but they aren't rated 150 watts RMS.

The idea is to have the 12" sub crossed over around 80Hz and use the 6 1/2" subs in the rear deck for 80Hz through around 200-300Hz.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I had actually looked at the CDT speakers, but they aren't rated 150 watts RMS.
The idea is to have the 12" sub crossed over around 80Hz and use the 6 1/2" subs in the rear deck for 80Hz through around 200-300Hz.

not gonna work, you'll localize the bass and fk up the soundstage completely along with run into phase issues. Forget about rears completely and focus that money on a proper front door install with proper baffle, deadening, acoustical treatments, rear wave treatments etc... and you'll have zero issues playing those midbass ranges loud to the point where it punches your chest.

Instead of spending anything on the rear, do a 3 way front. Midbass in the door, Get fiberglassed midrange in the kick panel or A pillar on axis. This is what's proven time and time again to win SQ championships and its the main configuration in ANY legit good sounding cars.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Is this the same person that wanted midbass in the rear also???

 

[jmcinvale 10+ year member]

not gonna work, you'll localize the bass and fk up the soundstage completely along with run into phase issues.

Figured the processor given it does things like time alignment would take care of things like that.

Instead of spending anything on the rear, do a 3 way front. Midbass in the door, Get fiberglassed midrange in the kick panel or A pillar on axis. This is what's proven time and time again to win SQ championships and its the main configuration in ANY legit good sounding cars.

Would love to, but I really don't want to do mods like that to the car nor do I have the money to do that.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Figured the processor given it does things like time alignment would take care of things like that.


Would love to, but I really don't want to do mods like that to the car nor do I have the money to do that.

I know exactly what that processor can do and time alignment doesnt fix localization. It doesnt work magic like that, the sound stage is still dragged to the rear. If it did, more people would do rear midbass arrays but no that does not work in SQ installs.

Just focus the money on doing a proper install with a 2 way front setup.

 

[jmcinvale 10+ year member]

Oh ok did not realize that.

From what I've read online the actual door speaker frames are slightly larger than a 6X9 so if a 6X9 midbass speaker exists would that be the best way to go?

In the CRv I had the dash tweeters I installed (pair of onkyo tweeters meant for certain GM vehicles) I had them crossed over at 6KHz and loved how they sounded. I installed the same model dash tweeters in the Camry. Is there any 6X9 midbass driver that will go up to 6KHz or is this a case of needing a two way 6X9 speaker?

Ultimately I'd love to get the same midbass punch I get from my 12" Eminence Delta Pro 12A midbass drivers in my home stereo, but I don't think I can get that same punch from a smaller speaker.

Figure 6X9 speakers would have more punch than a 6 1/2" midbass would.

The dash tweeters will be powered by the processor's internal amplifier.

Going two way in the front would save an amplifier as I would only need the JL 500.1V2 and one of the 300.4 amps. If I decided to go three way later or install small subs in the front doors I'll have the extra amp to power them with.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Oh ok did not realize that.
From what I've read online the actual door speaker frames are slightly larger than a 6X9 so if a 6X9 midbass speaker exists would that be the best way to go?

In the CRv I had the dash tweeters I installed (pair of onkyo tweeters meant for certain GM vehicles) I had them crossed over at 6KHz and loved how they sounded. I installed the same model dash tweeters in the Camry. Is there any 6X9 midbass driver that will go up to 6KHz or is this a case of needing a two way 6X9 speaker?

Ultimately I'd love to get the same midbass punch I get from my 12" Eminence Delta Pro 12A midbass drivers in my home stereo, but I don't think I can get that same punch from a smaller speaker.

Figure 6X9 speakers would have more punch than a 6 1/2" midbass would.

The dash tweeters will be powered by the processor's internal amplifier.

Going two way in the front would save an amplifier as I would only need the JL 500.1V2 and one of the 300.4 amps. If I decided to go three way later or install small subs in the front doors I'll have the extra amp to power them with.

No such thing as a 6x9 midbass speaker...just 6x9 with a mid and tweet attached to it. However, you can use some baffles in each door to accomodate a 6.5" speaker and tweeter up front someplace.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

No such thing as a 6x9 midbass speaker...just 6x9 with a mid and tweet attached to it. However, you can use some baffles in each door to accomodate a 6.5" speaker and tweeter up front someplace.

That is not true, there have been many midbass oriented 6x9's over the years. ID, Tang Band, Cadence, Bose, etc. I do agree that a solid 6.5" would make a better replacement though.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

That is not true, there have been many midbass oriented 6x9's over the years. ID, Tang Band, Cadence, Bose, etc. I do agree that a solid 6.5" would make a better replacement though.

I take that back...not very many people use them in car audio applications.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Oh ok did not realize that.
From what I've read online the actual door speaker frames are slightly larger than a 6X9 so if a 6X9 midbass speaker exists would that be the best way to go?

In the CRv I had the dash tweeters I installed (pair of onkyo tweeters meant for certain GM vehicles) I had them crossed over at 6KHz and loved how they sounded. I installed the same model dash tweeters in the Camry. Is there any 6X9 midbass driver that will go up to 6KHz or is this a case of needing a two way 6X9 speaker?

Ultimately I'd love to get the same midbass punch I get from my 12" Eminence Delta Pro 12A midbass drivers in my home stereo, but I don't think I can get that same punch from a smaller speaker.

Figure 6X9 speakers would have more punch than a 6 1/2" midbass would.

The dash tweeters will be powered by the processor's internal amplifier.

Going two way in the front would save an amplifier as I would only need the JL 500.1V2 and one of the 300.4 amps. If I decided to go three way later or install small subs in the front doors I'll have the extra amp to power them with.

there's midbass and midrange, choose one or the other, you arent gonna get both unless you drop serious cash and a lot of door prep.

6x9s arent always better I've had 6.5s flat out destroy 6x9s in terms of midbass and overall output. You need to get higher sensitivity drivers and put a lot of power to them. I have 450 watts per speaker for mines and they are louder than a car with EIGHT 6x9s per door. EIGHT!!!! Either you mod to fit an 8 or go down to a 6.5. Your speaker selection and choices at 6x9 size is garbage. all the quality drivers are sized 6.5 and 8.

Also be advised that your window wont roll down fully for most drivers you use unless you do some major mods. the speaker magnet will 100% get caught in your camry. If you look at the stock speakers, the magnet size is small as a few stacked quarters. Most after market speakers rock a real sized motor that will require a lot of mods to fit your car. I've worked with a camry before, I had to cut the door panel and do the speakers flush mounted just to make things simple and retain the ability to fully roll down the windows.

If you want to keep the stock look, you'll have to make 1.5-2.25 inch wood baffle to space it out depending on your speaker's mounting depth.