14 speaker set-up

[rvoijen]

Hi everyone,

I'm new to this forum but not to audio installations, though I am by no means an expert. I currently own a Range Rover L322 from 2006. As the current sound system is not working, I am looking to replace the whole thing. However the set-up goes a little beyond the level I have previously done, so I would like some help.

The current set-up is 14 speakers
4 doors with triple speakers - Low, Mid, High (tweet)
A centre-speaker in the dashboard
A subwoofer in the back

This is currently connected to the (faulty) Harman Kardon Logic 7 15 channel amp

What I am thinking as an replacement is:

Alpine ILX705D head unit

1x 5-Channel AMP 4x80W + 1x180W or 4x75W + 1x200W for front speakers
Front doors 1x Low 1x Middle 1x High - Low on 1 channel Middle/High on 1 channel with crossover
120W Center speaker on 5th channel

1x 5-Channel AMP 4x80W + 1x180W or 4x75W + 1x200W for reaar speakers
Rear doors 1x Low 1x Middle 1x High - Low on 1 channel Middle/High on 1 channel with crossover
180/200W Subwoofer on 5th channel

It this a workable (and decent) set-up?
Am I missing something here?
Any particular shortcomings or concerns?

Click to read more...

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

It this a workable (and decent) set-up?
Am I missing something here?
Any particular shortcomings or concerns?

On most 5 channel amps, the fifth channel is a subwoofer channel. I do not think it will sound good on the center dash speaker.
Your best bet would be to use 3-way passive crossovers on the doors. That will allow you to use just one 5 channel amplifier.
When you use a passive x-over, each of the 3 speakers will get the full 80 watts from that channel; the power will not be divided by 3. As for the center channel, I doubt you will miss it.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Agree with 1aespinoza . That said, the output you list for the sub is lacking if you intend to add an aftermarket sub.​

Consider something like this instead:

Focal FPP 5300 open box

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1959876865...d=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

Used:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2653606491...d=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1



You haven’t purchased the 3 ways for the doors yet. That focal amp is clean and you should have good speakers to go with them. These are on sale right now for $354.99 a set.

https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/sets/hd/hd632khr.php

That amp puts out 300 watts to the sub channel so there’s that too. Not sure what you are thinking about for a sub.

This is another very nice 5 channel:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1858814322...d=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

Performance specifications (THD < 0.01% / 14.4V):
75 watts RMS x 4 4 ohms + 420 watts x 1 into 4 ohms
120 watts RMS x 4 2 ohms + 720 watts x 1 into 2 ohms
240 watts RMS x 2 4 ohms bridged + subwoofer channel

If those are a bit on the pricey side, there is a happy middle. This Excelon by Kenwood gets great reviews on YouTube, specifically, Williston Audio tested:

Refurbished units are down to $299

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2749703151...d=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

 

[HardofWhoring]

I tried to see pictures of all those speakers. Are they separate speakers, with separate mounting locations? (It doesn't look like it).

 

[HardofWhoring]

Looks like what you have are 3 way speakers. I honestly wouldn't get a 5ch at all.

I think your original system was "missing" crossovers. They will split the frequency and keep the wattage. If you have a tweeter and a mid, they split around 3K-3,500hz area. Instead of having two channels 80w to two speakers, you have one channel split and the higher 80w frequencies goes to the highs, and the lower 80w goes to the lows.
You could either use two way speakers (combined mids and highs), or components (separate mids and highs with a crossover), on each door.

So the front center channel: I would take a look at what speaker is in the front channel. You can learn in-depth on these if you want. Personally, the only way I'm getting a 5ch amp is if the gain on the 5th channel can be independently adjusted, (meaning you can set how much power goes to it) so that it won't try to drown out the main door speakers. That 5th channel is usually the highest wattage for a sub, and I would rather not have a mono center channel drowning out my main speakers. To me it's just a fill speaker, it's a luxury speaker, because you are in a luxury vehicle. Personally, I'm not getting a 5ch amp, I'm getting a 4ch amp for the 4 doors, and I'm putting a small speaker in there that fills the size, and playing it off the head unit, (50w MAX,) which should be about 22-25w RMS. It doesn't need to be much, but this probably saves you 3-5 hundred bucks from buying a 4ch amp and not a 5ch amp.

Unless you have holes in the doors for lows, I'm not putting those in. If you have three way speakers, and just one hole for mids, highs, and tweeters, no way am I adding those in. I personally don't think 3 ways are as clear, and you're getting next to no bass out of em. I also like the ability to adjust bass independently from the main speakers.

If those are a combined speaker: I'm doing a 4ch for the doors with two ways or components, and a separate mono amp for whatever bass you want to add. Replace your original sub if you can fit the size, or do you want to go more?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I personally would keep the 3 way in the doors as they are with a newer set of speakers. CDT has a nice HD set to look at,and you can still do the rears as well to fill the Cavity space. And maybe replace the sub with something a little bit better maybe in a small ported enclosure or a sealed with a decent 5 ch? or go with a nice 4 ch and id do a min. of a 600 rms substage to keep up with the rest of the system and on its own power and tune accordingly. The center speaker can be omitted/more than likely not needed with a decent 3 way set up.. this 5 ch has a decent amount of power for the $ one to consider. I believe you have access to Sound Digital Evo X series 800.4and an Evo 800.1? Maybe look at the Evo series for compact design and space savings? A little pricey but compact.Shop around for better pricing. CT Sounds CT150.4 has some nice adjustments on it and fairly compact and the 700.1 mono amp if you have an option to get those? Ground Zero may be another to look into that you may be able to get within your location?

Audio Apex CAB-M165 5 Channel Car Amplifier 1600 Watts RMS

Audio Apex CAB-M165 5 Channel Car Amplifier 1600 Watts RMS

caraudiobargain.com

4 Channel Amp | Stereo Amplifier | Motorcycle Parts

Discover the SounDigital EVOX2 800.4 - 4Ω audio amplifier at Garage Bagger Stereo! This amplifier has a compact design perfect for motorcycle installation.

garagebaggerstereo.com

SOUNDIGITAL 800.1 EVOX SERIES 800W MONO CHANNEL 2OHM AMPLIFIER

The Largest Selection Of Pro & Car Audio, DJ & Lighting Equipment Under One Roof. A Tradition Of Excellence Since 1984

vipproaudio.com

AMPLIFIER SOUNDIGITAL 800.1 EVO 5.0 STEREO DIGITAL - 2 OHMS | eBay

800.1 EVO 5 - 2 OHMS Height: 5.1cm. Length: 14.8cm. Width: 11.3cm. Audio Output Cable: 2 x 2mm² (12 AWG). Power Cord: 10mm² (7AWG). Minimum Audio Output Impedance: 2Ω. Damping Factor (@100Hz Nominal Impedance): 200.

www.ebay.com

CT-150.4D // 1000 Watts RMS 4-Channel Car Audio Amplifier

The CT Sounds CT-150.4D is a compact full-range class d 4 channel car amplifier. The multi-channel amplifier features a Low Pass Filter (LPF), High Pass Filter (HPF), and Bass Boost so you can get the exact sound you are looking for out of your amplifier.

www.ctsounds.com

CT-700.1D // 700 Watts RMS Monoblock Car Audio Amplifier

The CT Sounds CT-700.1D is a compact 700-watt class d monoblock car subwoofer amplifier. The 1-ohm stable monoblock amplifier features a Low Pass Filter (LPF), Subsonic Filter, and Bass Boost so you can get the exact sound you are looking for out of your amplifier.

www.ctsounds.com

For $20 bucks more and If you give the space up.. Id pick up the 1k

CT-1000.1D // 1000 Watts RMS Monoblock Car Audio Amplifier

The CT Sounds CT-1000.1D is a compact 1000 watt class d monoblock car subwoofer amplifier. The 1-ohm stable monoblock amplifier features a Low Pass Filter (LPF), Subsonic Filter, and Bass Boost so you can get the exact sound you are looking for out of your amplifier.

www.ctsounds.com

Thats me though.Just a couple recommendations