2007 Honda Odyssey Touring-Amp & Speaker upgrade questions...

[JSMCO]

Hi Guys

I am considering upgrading the amp & speakers in my 2007 Honda Odyssey touring and I have a few questions. I want to keep the factory radio for the RES. I know some of these are pretty nitty-gritty. I would probably also replace the factory sub under the front seat with a compact powered sub.

1. Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the wires going both into and out of the factory amp? I found a few images online but not positive they're for a 2007 touring.
2. How many watts does the factory amp put out?
3. Is the under-seat sub self powered or does the amp also power that?
4. Are the output signals coming out of the radio to the amp already filtered for highs/mids/lows for the tweeters/mids/sub or does that happen in the amp? Or after the amp with capacitors or blockers on the speaker wires?
5. Do the dash tweeters have their own separate outputs coming out of the amp or are they just tapped into the front door speaker wires?

I'm trying to figure out if I should keep the factory amp and feed its output wires into the high level inputs on a new amp or use LOCs, or if I can remove the factory amp and use its input wires into the new amp, using high level or LOCs.

Thanks so much guys, for any knowledge on this.

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

You have ¾ to 1” tweeters in the dash, 5.25” speakers in the front doors, and 5.25” drivers in the rear. Are you considering an aftermarket Sub? If so, to what end, ruining the kid's ears or just a little BASS reinforcement? Amplified with passive sub, powered prefab subwoofer unit?

Tap into the speakers' wires from behind the dash, from the HU (either from behind the dash or where they plug into the amp). not fed from the amp, those won't be needed with this:

Amazon product ASIN B0BSVNTGTD
What is the budget?

There are many ways to do this, just need to know the desired results and the budget,

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

any knowledge

Have you looked for an amp pin out for your vehicle?

 

[JSMCO]

You have ¾ to 1” tweeters in the dash, 5.25” speakers in the front doors, and 5.25” drivers in the rear. Are you considering an aftermarket Sub? If so, to what end, ruining the kid's ears or just a little BASS reinforcement? Amplified with passive sub, powered prefab subwoofer unit?

Tap into the speakers' wires from behind the dash, from the HU (either from behind the dash or where they plug into the amp). not fed from the amp, those won't be needed with this:

Amazon product ASIN B0BSVNTGTD
What is the budget?

There are many ways to do this, just need to know the desired results and the budget,

Thanks for the reply!
I was already looking at the same Audio Control Unit you mentioned. This would be for my daughter, she just wants better sound with more bass. Here is what I was considering:

AudioControl LC7i Infinity Primus 4 channel compact amp Front Speakers-Morel Maximo Coax Rear Fill Speakers-Hertz K130 Woofers. I would tap the Hertz tweeters into the wires for the fronts and use those in the dash. The tweeters have inline caps on them. Sub-Powered 8" MTX or Sound ordinance to replace the one under the front passenger seat. I was thinking to put the LC7i and the amp under the front passenger seat and the sub under the center row passenger seat. Including wiring, etc, I think I could get it done for about $900.

 

[JSMCO]

Have you looked for an amp pin out for your vehicle?

I don't know what that is? Is it a connector with cables that would plug into the connector that goes into the amp?

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

I don't know what that is? Is it a connector with cables that would plug into the connector that goes into the amp?

Yes. It identifies every wire.

 

[JSMCO]

Yes. It identifies every wire.

Where would be best to look for something like that?

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Where would be best to look for something like that?

Online. You will have to browse several sites until you find the one specific to the gear in your vehicle.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Well then, I would recommend something slightly different. @ different approaches that look to be real significant upgrades, not just a little better and within the budget!

DI550.4 Full-Range Class-D 4-Channel Car Audio Amplifier, 1,040 Watts, 2-4 Ohm Stable, Mosfet Power Supply, Bridgeable - Recoil Audio

Class D 4-Channel Amplifier, 1040 Watts Max Power, RMS 130 Watts x 4 Channels@2 Ohm; RMS 80 Watts x 4@4Ohm; RMS (Bridged): 260 Watts x 2@4Ohm; Peak Power: 260 Watts x 4@2Ohm Featuring a high-speed MOSFET power supply, premium-grade internal components, as well as 4-way protection circuitry, the...

www.recoilaudio.com

$85.00

You don't really want coax and tweeters up front together. You can use the existing wire and run them from the crossovers on these upfront. I've used them and can honestly say they are really good comps, exceptional for the money. I'm not a fan of mixing and matching and this allows you to keep them the same back and front and they are about half off. Use both sets front and back or use the woofers as full range fill:

Pioneer TS-Z65C 6.5" Component Speaker System 300 Watts Max RB | eBay

1-1/8" aluminum tweeter. 6-1/2" Twaron fiber woofer with butyl rubber surround. Tweeter Composition Aluminum. Woofer Composition Twaron. Woofer Surround ---. handles up to 100 watts RMS (300 watts peak power).

www.ebay.com

$99 for one or two sets depending on if you prefer to go this way for the rear (recommended if available) $99 a pair either way

Pioneer Ts-z65f 330w Peak 6.5" Z-series 2-way 4 Ohms Coaxial Car Speakers 110w 884938374637 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Pioneer Ts-z65f 330w Peak 6.5" Z-series 2-way 4 Ohms Coaxial Car Speakers 110w at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

For the SUB:

Pioneer TS-WX1210AM | 1300W Peak 12â Powered Subwoofer Enclosure 884938486910 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Pioneer TS-WX1210AM | 1300W Peak 12” Powered Subwoofer Enclosure at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

The other option is to use the coax and comps with this:

Alpine S-A55V, S Series Class D 5 Channel Amplifier 793276242587 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Alpine S-A55V, S Series Class D 5 Channel Amplifier at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

$280.00

You will need this either way:

Amazon product ASIN B0C8V972Z7
Then this would be a great option for sub:

Amazon product ASIN B0007XV5HW
$80

and this to go in it:

New! NVX VSW124v2 Stereo 1200 Watts 12" Inches Dual 4-ohm Car Audio Subwoofers 818060014284 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for New! NVX VSW124v2 Stereo 1200 Watts 12" Inches Dual 4-ohm Car Audio Subwoofers at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

$90

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

This leaves plenty in the budget to run wire, fuses to the trunk for the powered sub, and speaker wire for the passive should you go that route.

 

[JSMCO]

Thanks very much for the suggestions! They all make good sense. The only concern I'd have is I don't believe either sub option would fit under the seat as desired, but I'll do some measuring and see.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

That said, both setups would work with any powered sub, under the seat or otherwise. Find one that works for your space and utilize the rest, nice system either way.

 

[JSMCO]

That said, both setups would work with any powered sub, under the seat or otherwise. Find one that works for your space and utilize the rest, nice system either way.

One other question. The Pioneer speakers are 4 ohm and 100W RMS rated. The Recoil amp does 80W @ 4 ohm, and the alpine does 40W @ 4 ohm. Wouldn't both amps be underpowering the Pioneer speakers?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

No. Speaker ratings while important are more indicative of their capabilities. Having a rating of 100 watts, generally speaking, puts them in a better class of speakers. If anything, and if you can afford it and if it fits, this would be an even better amp at 100 x 4 (not thinking that you will hear a whole lot of difference but I like these amps and use them often).

Pioneer GM-D8704 RB 1200 Watt 4/3/2-Channel Class D Amplifier With Bass Knob 884938421928 | eBay

Pioneer GM Digital Series G M -D8704. 1200 W atts Max, 4-Channel Class D Br idgeable Car Audio Amplifier With Wired Bass Remote Included. Amplifier Class: Class FD. This is a Pioneer Factory Refurbished Item.

www.ebay.com

What you wouldn't want is a speaker that was rated at 40 watts getting 80, that is an actual problem, the scenario I configured is a win/win with either the Pio amp or the Recoil.

The only reason that I suggested this option is the price/performance. IMHO, right now, they are miles ahead of anything in that price range as they routinely cost 2 to 2.5 times the selling price. There is never any harm in getting something that is much better than what you need if the price is the same or better than what you would usually get, You will not be unhappy with those in the car. I run the 110-watt RMS per side version in my car with about 3500 watts of equipment and let me tell you, they are fantastic. If these were priced normally, we would be over the budget as we would be close to $450 for the speakers alone.

If you go out and shop pretty much any other brand that will take 100 watts RMS, they start around $200-$250 and go up from there. the link to the coaxial speakers I listed is the key. If you can snag those the comps are a no-brainer. $450 worth of speakers for $200, that's easy.

 

[JSMCO]

No. Speaker ratings while important are more indicative of their capabilities. Having a rating of 100 watts, generally speaking, puts them in a better class of speakers. If anything, and if you can afford it and if it fits, this would be an even better amp at 100 x 4 (not thinking that you will hear a whole lot of difference but I like these amps and use them often).

Pioneer GM-D8704 RB 1200 Watt 4/3/2-Channel Class D Amplifier With Bass Knob 884938421928 | eBay

Pioneer GM Digital Series G M -D8704. 1200 W atts Max, 4-Channel Class D Br idgeable Car Audio Amplifier With Wired Bass Remote Included. Amplifier Class: Class FD. This is a Pioneer Factory Refurbished Item.

www.ebay.com

What you wouldn't want is a speaker that was rated at 40 watts getting 80, that is an actual problem, the scenario I configured is a win/win with either the Pio amp or the Recoil.

The only reason that I suggested this option is the price/performance. IMHO, right now, they are miles ahead of anything in that price range as they routinely cost 2 to 2.5 times the selling price. There is never any harm in getting something that is much better than what you need if the price is the same or better than what you would usually get, You will not be unhappy with those in the car. I run the 110-watt RMS per side version in my car with about 3500 watts of equipment and let me tell you, they are fantastic. If these were priced normally, we would be over the budget as we would be close to $450 for the speakers alone.

If you go out and shop pretty much any other brand that will take 100 watts RMS, they start around $200-$250 and go up from there. the link to the coaxial speakers I listed is the key. If you can snag those the comps are a no-brainer. $450 worth of speakers for $200, that's easy.

Much thanks for the input. Very appreciated!