Mr FaceCaser
CarAudio.com Regular
- Thread Starter
- #16
Okay thank you I'm gonna go with the nickel platted brassThere are two of those types, gold-plated brass and nickel plated brass, both are great and will prevent oxidations.
Okay thank you I'm gonna go with the nickel platted brassThere are two of those types, gold-plated brass and nickel plated brass, both are great and will prevent oxidations.
That would be these.Okay thank you I'm gonna go with the nickel platted brass
Never mind I'm stupid I don't wanna solder from the amp I meant from the subs to the back of the terminalHow would you solder the wire from the amp to that just solder it to the hole?
I use a butane torch for thick 4-8 gauge wire. For those you could just get ring type crimp connectors. 10-12 gauge is pretty easy to solder with a small butane or a regular iron type soldering gun.Never mind I'm stupid I don't wanna solder from the amp I meant from the subs to the back of the terminal
Never understood why he goes to such lengths to build monster connectors out of Stainless Steel, terrible conductor.I run bolts through the box. Make the holes small enough that you have to thread the bolt in. Ring terminals on the inside to the subs, ring terminals on the outside to the amp.
Added bonus is you don't give money to "small dik designs". I assume that's what smd stands for based on his videos.
Stainless steel is perfectly capable of conducting electricity for 2". It's a hard, durable material. Great for the application. I just don't like the arrogant fatass who sells it.Never understood why he goes to such lengths to build monster connectors out of Stainless Steel, terrible conductor.
True but at those prices, nickel plated copper or brass would be a much better option for speakers, no point in using stainless steel at all. There are cheaper and preferable options. But the bolt-on throughput like you suggested, works well as I have also done that in the past. Nowadays, I just get those Nickle plated brass binding post, soldered and crimped rings inside to the woofer, solder up 8-10 gauge to bananas from the amp, plug and play!Stainless steel is perfectly capable of conducting electricity for 2". It's a hard, durable material. Great for the application. I just don't like the arrogant fatass who sells it.
Was this a joke?True but at those prices, nickel plated copper or brass would be a much better option for speakers, no point in using stainless steel at all. There are cheaper and preferable options. But the bolt-on throughput like you suggested, works well as I have also done that in the past. Nowadays, I just get those Nickle plated brass binding post, soldered and crimped rings inside to the woofer, solder up 8-10 gauge to bananas from the amp, plug and play!
Only to you man, preferences are preferences, like opinions and ********, everyone has them. I don't care that one only loses .000002 ohms of resistance in a 2" bolt, I'm not a fan introducing anything in the signal path if you have other options. This is my preference - many ways to skin a cat...Was this a joke?
Well, atourch is necessary evil for 4 gauge and larger, use one all the time for power/ground wire. Iron on everything else. I use rosin and 4% silver on my crossovers, regular Kestler rosin core (leaded) for everything else.A torch or a solder gun and about the worst things to use for this, a solder station with about 60 watts is the ticket , using good kestler solder WITH lead in it, skip the lead free junk.
With the proper tools this is so easy, with the wrong tools you burn insulation, contaminate the joint and so on.
Do not use plumbers solder. It will destroy wire over time.
No it’s not.Well, atourch is necessary evil for 4 gauge and larger, use one all the time for power/ground wire. Iron on everything else. I use rosin and 4% silver on my crossovers, regular Kestler rosin core (leaded) for everything else.