y splitter on dsp

[Old_risk]

im doing my first audio build here it is so far
Subs 3x10 inch sealed enclosure
mono channel amp

Speakers - focal 165as mid bass and tweeters
alpine 4 channel amp

pvr dsp 2.8x

my question is for the dsp can i use a y splitter for the subs so i don't have to use up 2 of my channels and could this also work for the mid bass and tweeters since there the same speakers so i only use 3 of my 8 channels instead of 6

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[Old_Slapper]

You Y them off. Just make sure you are using a DSP with high volt pre-outs.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

If you're going fully active, you use a single channel for the sealed sub and a single channel for all the drivers. That is a channel for each midbass and a channel for each tweeter.

You do not split the output from the DSP on any of the channels.

If you're going passive/active, using the crossovers that came with the Focal set, then you would use 1 channel for the right and one channel for the left, and 1 channel for the sub.

Which Alpine 4-ch amp?

Are you thinking of bridging a pair of channels to the sub and using the other two in a passive/active configuration?

Need to know the wired load of the sub, the amp(s) you are going to use, and why you are even considering trying to save channels on the DSP.

The purpose of using the DSP is to take advantage of its crossovers and time aligmnment which is hindered in an active/ passive setup at best.

As to the output voltage, splitting RCA outputs does not impact the voltage to the amps' preamp inputs, but again, there's no reason to do that if you're doing things right.

 

[Old_risk]

i know you can really get into it and get a perfect sound stage by tunning them individually but thats way beyond what i know how to do i was just getting the dsp for the sound alignment between subs and component speakers i will get it tuned professionally tho but all i would know how to do is set a LPF and HPF and equailzer so i dont blow my tweeters the amp is the Alpine S-A32F rught now all i have is the subs, mono amp, and focal speakers i have yet to order my dsp and 4 channel amp

 

[Old_risk]

You Y them off. Just make sure you are using a DSP with high volt pre-outs.

is it rec

If you're going fully active, you use a single channel for the sealed sub and a single channel for all the drivers. That is a channel for each midbass and a channel for each tweeter.

You do not split the output from the DSP on any of the channels.

If you're going passive/active, using the crossovers that came with the Focal set, then you would use 1 channel for the right and one channel for the left, and 1 channel for the sub.

Which Alpine 4-ch amp?

Are you thinking of bridging a pair of channels to the sub and using the other two in a passive/active configuration?

Need to know the wired load of the sub, the amp(s) you are going to use, and why you are even considering trying to save channels on the DSP.

The purpose of using the DSP is to take advantage of its crossovers and time aligmnment which is hindered in an active/ passive setup at best.

As to the output voltage, splitting RCA outputs does not impact the voltage to the amps' preamp inputs, but again, there's no reason to do that if you're doing things right.

i know you can really get into it and get a perfect sound stage by tunning them individually but thats way beyond what i know how to do i was just getting the dsp for the sound alignment between subs and component speakers i will get it tuned professionally tho but all i would know how to do is set a LPF and HPF and equailzer so i dont blow my tweeters the amp is the Alpine S-A32F rught now all i have is the subs, mono amp, and focal speakers i have yet to order my dsp and 4 channel amp

 

[Old_risk]

If you're going fully active, you use a single channel for the sealed sub and a single channel for all the drivers. That is a channel for each midbass and a channel for each tweeter.

You do not split the output from the DSP on any of the channels.

If you're going passive/active, using the crossovers that came with the Focal set, then you would use 1 channel for the right and one channel for the left, and 1 channel for the sub.

Which Alpine 4-ch amp?

Are you thinking of bridging a pair of channels to the sub and using the other two in a passive/active configuration?

Need to know the wired load of the sub, the amp(s) you are going to use, and why you are even considering trying to save channels on the DSP.

The purpose of using the DSP is to take advantage of its crossovers and time aligmnment which is hindered in an active/ passive setup at best.

As to the output voltage, splitting RCA outputs does not impact the voltage to the amps' preamp inputs, but again, there's no reason to do that if you're doing things right.

is it recommended i get not Y ing off the main speakers as it wont let me tune a sound stage but what about the subs there really isnt a left a right, i mean there is but not in the same way as my tweeters so should i just y off the subs and keep one channel per speaker for the mid bass and tweeters

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

The PRV DSP is a 2-input, 8-output digital signal processor EQ and electronic crossover; it's not complicated, at least that unit is not complicated, but it serves a specific purpose, and using it any other way than fully active is an effort in futility.

Using it the way you're asking is not going to benefit the system and will actually make things worse. Time alignment won't help your system if configured the way you are considering, as the staging and other factors will be much more adversely affected.

All is not lost, though.

Here is the best way to use the equipment you already have if you're not ready to go fully active, and fully active with adequate power.

You use the Focal components on the right and left sides of the cabin, i.e., left and right doors, and the dash; however, that looks for your vehicle - with the passive crossovers, this takes the worry out of blowing anything up.\

You take the amp and run it in 2-ch mode for 160x2 like this.

Settings for the amp like this:

Now you have 160 watts a side to the component speakers and the crossover does the frequency dividing, which takes care of protecting the tweeter from low frequencies.

If you are not using a head unit and plan to use the PRV as your line out converter, again, don't bother until you are set up to go fully active, which would involve using the Alpine in bridged mode to just the 6.5' woofers and a 50-75 watt x 2 amp for the tweeters.

In the meantime, you can simply get one of these, tap into the existing front left and right speaker leads coming off your head unit.

It can be used later to feed the PRV or any other DSP you decide to get.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VKFSLKN/?tag=caraudiocom-20

The unique thing about the kicker LOC is that it's remarkably clean and will handle 55 watts of high-level speaker lead inputs from your OEM HU.

Another neat thing about it is that it will use the voltage from the speaker leads to create a remote turn-on lead for your amps, which eliminates the need to find one or create one from the cars ACC triggered power-on somewhere in the fuse box.

Here is where it gets a bit confusing.

You will run a y from both of the kicker LOC outputs to split them into dual right and left outputs. You will then take one R and one L, run those to the Alpine, use another set of "Y" splitters at the amp to get dual R and Dual L to the amp as I demonstrated earlier.

You will run another R/L RCA cable from the remaining L/R outputs off the LOC to the subwoofer amp and use the crossovers on the amp to set up your subwoofer, probably somewhere between 70-100 hz, wherever it blends best with the focal sets up front.

Here is a rough draft of how that looks.

This is the best way to setup the system with the existing equeipment.

 

[Old_risk]

The PRV DSP is a 2-input, 8-output digital signal processor EQ and electronic crossover; it's not complicated, at least that unit is not complicated, but it serves a specific purpose, and using it any other way than fully active is an effort in futility.

Using it the way you're asking is not going to benefit the system and will actually make things worse. Time alignment won't help your system if configured the way you are considering, as the staging and other factors will be much more adversely affected.

All is not lost, though.

Here is the best way to use the equipment you already have if you're not ready to go fully active, and fully active with adequate power.

You use the Focal components on the right and left sides of the cabin, i.e., left and right doors, and the dash; however, that looks for your vehicle - with the passive crossovers, this takes the worry out of blowing anything up.\

You take the amp and run it in 2-ch mode for 160x2 like this.

View attachment 70438

Settings for the amp like this:

View attachment 70439


Now you have 160 watts a side to the component speakers and the crossover does the frequency dividing, which takes care of protecting the tweeter from low frequencies.

If you are not using a head unit and plan to use the PRV as your line out converter, again, don't bother until you are set up to go fully active, which would involve using the Alpine in bridged mode to just the 6.5' woofers and a 50-75 watt x 2 amp for the tweeters.

In the meantime, you can simply get one of these, tap into the existing front left and right speaker leads coming off your head unit.

It can be used later to feed the PRV or any other DSP you decide to get.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VKFSLKN/?tag=caraudiocom-20

The unique thing about the kicker LOC is that it's remarkably clean and will handle 55 watts of high-level speaker lead inputs from your OEM HU.

Another neat thing about it is that it will use the voltage from the speaker leads to create a remote turn-on lead for your amps, which eliminates the need to find one or create one from the cars ACC triggered power-on somewhere in the fuse box.

Here is where it gets a bit confusing.

You will run a y from both of the kicker LOC outputs to split them into dual right and left outputs. You will then take one R and one L, run those to the Alpine, use another set of "Y" splitters at the amp to get dual R and Dual L to the amp as I demonstrated earlier.

You will run another R/L RCA cable from the remaining L/R outputs off the LOC to the subwoofer amp and use the crossovers on the amp to set up your subwoofer, probably somewhere between 70-100 hz, wherever it blends best with the focal sets up front.

Here is a rough draft of how that looks.

View attachment 70441
View attachment 70442
This is the best way to setup the system with the existing equeipment.

I'm rewiring my entire system so new head unit, the 2 amps, the dsp, and the speakers I will use each channel individually then! Instead of the y splitter I did want to run the full 4 channels so I can tune the tweeters as well tho

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I'm rewiring my entire system so new head unit, the 2 amps, the dsp, and the speakers I will use each channel individually then! Instead of the y splitter I did want to run the full 4 channels so I can tune the tweeters as well tho

Yes, that makes it all the better, absolutely.

If you have a little extra money, I would get a small 2-channel for the tweeters and still bridge the Alpine to your midbass drivers - you're not going to be happy with the ouput at 60x2 for the 6.5" Focals.

This is a great matching class A/B 50x2 Alpine, on ebay for only $94.99!

Alpine BBX-T600 Car Amplifier 600W Max 2 Channel Class A/B | eBay

Amplifier Type: Class-A/B, Channel Design: 2/1 Channel Thermal Control: Thermal Management Control for amplifier protection Power Supply Design: MOSFET Power for efficient performance Crossover: Variable Low-Pass / High-Pass for customizable audio output Connectivity: 1 pair RCA pre-inputs and 1...

www.ebay.com

If you load this little guy into the cart, it's half price at $100.00 and will give you more than enough for the tweeters at 90x2, and it's a Korean made half-bridge, at it's TINY!

Rainbow SL-M2 Micro Amp | 2 Channel Amplifier

Experience power and precision with the Rainbow SL-M2 2-Channel Micro Amplifier. Elevate your audio performance with this compact, game-changing technology.

audiointensity.com

This little class A/B is a clean 75x2 @$159.99

US Acoustics Wendy | 2 Channel Class AB Amplifier | 2 x 75w

US Acoustics Wendy 2-Channel Class AB Amplifier Spunky Power! 2 × 75 Watts RMS @ 4Ω | 2 × 125 Watts RMS @ 2Ω | 250 Watts Bridged @ 4Ω Compact Full Complementary Class AB Design in Ultra-Small Form Factor Big Sound, Small Package: The Compact Class AB Revolution In a market flooded with Class D...

audiointensity.com

Anyhow, whatever you do, for protecting the tweeters in an active setup, you need to put a capacitor inline with the positve lead on the tweeter.

30-40uf, Metalized Poluprolene or polyester film, just don't use cheap-o electorlytics in the signal path of the tweeters.

These are perfect "bass-blockers" or "tweeter-protectors" for lack of better term.

amazon.com/MECCANIXITY-Frequency-Capacitor-Non-Polarity-Polypropylene/dp/B0FT5NQTT7/ref=sr_1_5_sspa?crid=72CI29EA0X3Q&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Dt0gup_HBFKyrmVpzIBhvuKgYPqhvsemO1W_EgURl_m-_WuK9Uy4zqlaSDMLpIjW1qNw15bW_tTJdzY7yh8fvpl8-Pdd1wCViaGqHh3-SYqrxoR_o2RzHd1xs_ey5S4BtEHJgQbt2zx27aCtrNenXqpjWQdzbaV7UIXAY0OzRKwVCZMmgesocfgTwf4fN8YOIv0UL0CD5Jq98Azm5n-dXq3fhaE4D17dqOLZv_DB6HE.ymuzm1ar3FdO1Ug96Yr2Hau7OHaEYPzujiNetms9pHg&dib_tag=se&keywords=33uf+capacitor&qid=1770306126&sprefix=33uf+capacitor%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-5-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1

Let me know if or when you decide to add a 2-ch, and I'll be happy to help with the settings on the DSP and the amplifiers.

 

[Old_risk]

Yes, that makes it all the better, absolutely.

If you have a little extra money, I would get a small 2-channel for the tweeters and still bridge the Alpine to your midbass drivers - you're not going to be happy with the ouput at 60x2 for the 6.5" Focals.

This is a great matching class A/B 50x2 Alpine, on ebay for only $94.99!

Alpine BBX-T600 Car Amplifier 600W Max 2 Channel Class A/B | eBay

Amplifier Type: Class-A/B, Channel Design: 2/1 Channel Thermal Control: Thermal Management Control for amplifier protection Power Supply Design: MOSFET Power for efficient performance Crossover: Variable Low-Pass / High-Pass for customizable audio output Connectivity: 1 pair RCA pre-inputs and 1...

www.ebay.com

If you load this little guy into the cart, it's half price at $100.00 and will give you more than enough for the tweeters at 90x2, and it's a Korean made half-bridge, at it's TINY!

Rainbow SL-M2 Micro Amp | 2 Channel Amplifier

Experience power and precision with the Rainbow SL-M2 2-Channel Micro Amplifier. Elevate your audio performance with this compact, game-changing technology.

audiointensity.com

This little class A/B is a clean 75x2 @$159.99

US Acoustics Wendy | 2 Channel Class AB Amplifier | 2 x 75w

US Acoustics Wendy 2-Channel Class AB Amplifier Spunky Power! 2 × 75 Watts RMS @ 4Ω | 2 × 125 Watts RMS @ 2Ω | 250 Watts Bridged @ 4Ω Compact Full Complementary Class AB Design in Ultra-Small Form Factor Big Sound, Small Package: The Compact Class AB Revolution In a market flooded with Class D...

audiointensity.com

Anyhow, whatever you do, for protecting the tweeters in an active setup, you need to put a capacitor inline with the positve lead on the tweeter.

30-40uf, Metalized Poluprolene or polyester film, just don't use cheap-o electorlytics in the signal path of the tweeters.

These are perfect "bass-blockers" or "tweeter-protectors" for lack of better term.

amazon.com/MECCANIXITY-Frequency-Capacitor-Non-Polarity-Polypropylene/dp/B0FT5NQTT7/ref=sr_1_5_sspa?crid=72CI29EA0X3Q&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Dt0gup_HBFKyrmVpzIBhvuKgYPqhvsemO1W_EgURl_m-_WuK9Uy4zqlaSDMLpIjW1qNw15bW_tTJdzY7yh8fvpl8-Pdd1wCViaGqHh3-SYqrxoR_o2RzHd1xs_ey5S4BtEHJgQbt2zx27aCtrNenXqpjWQdzbaV7UIXAY0OzRKwVCZMmgesocfgTwf4fN8YOIv0UL0CD5Jq98Azm5n-dXq3fhaE4D17dqOLZv_DB6HE.ymuzm1ar3FdO1Ug96Yr2Hau7OHaEYPzujiNetms9pHg&dib_tag=se&keywords=33uf+capacitor&qid=1770306126&sprefix=33uf+capacitor%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-5-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1

Let me know if or when you decide to add a 2-ch, and I'll be happy to help with the settings on the DSP and the amplifiers.

Yea I plan to expand on but as of right now I'm just going with the 4 channel, eventually I will get more amps so I can run. Full range in the back and then add a larger mid range speaker in my center dash board once I upgraded I will split the amps so I have a amp for tweeters, amp for mid bass, amp for full range, and an amp for my mid range + my subs amp