Why is my system weaker after upgrading?

thats not what im saying dont try to turn this around. example i have a speaker and add some bolts from subs to box im adding resistance.
So then big banks of batteries drop tons of voltage with their tons of connections? I'm not trying to turn anything around. I'm trying to follow your logic here.

 

---------- Post added at 02:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:46 PM ----------

 

By your logic, multiple runs of wire is bad because it "adds **** in front of the amplifier". I can demonstrate your absurd comments with absurdity all day long but you're just better off admitting that you're wrong.
 
Christ people, let's fix the quote train fail.

You're right, NH, adding wire will not add resistance. However, most people add more wire than necessary and it does no good except cost money. If a wire is capable of passing all the current that the circuit will draw, there is no need adding wire. As you approach the limit of a wire's capacitance, you could help voltage by spreading the current across more conductor which would in turn add surface area and lower heat loss.

My original point with the connections, is that crimp on connections for 1/0 or usually insufficiently small for a true 300A load. With that said, they almost always get hot enough to lose voltage, however insignificant that voltage drop may be. For me, it's .1 before each set of batteries. I can take the batteries out of the loop and just test the wire at the connection and that voltage is still missing. Put the batteries in the loop and the current does not drop. Some of it is wire as well, since I'm putting 300A of draw on a single run of 1/0, but then again I'm only able to send 300A of current as that is the max output of my alt. I might gain .1 with another run, but seeing as I never compete and it's strictly daily, it is not worth another $200 in 1/0 to me.

 
Christ people, let's fix the quote train fail.
You're right, NH, adding wire will not add resistance. However, most people add more wire than necessary and it does no good except cost money. If a wire is capable of passing all the current that the circuit will draw, there is no need adding wire. As you approach the limit of a wire's capacitance, you could help voltage by spreading the current across more conductor which would in turn add surface area and lower heat loss.

My original point with the connections, is that crimp on connections for 1/0 or usually insufficiently small for a true 300A load. With that said, they almost always get hot enough to lose voltage, however insignificant that voltage drop may be. For me, it's .1 before each set of batteries. I can take the batteries out of the loop and just test the wire at the connection and that voltage is still missing. Put the batteries in the loop and the current does not drop. Some of it is wire as well, since I'm putting 300A of draw on a single run of 1/0, but then again I'm only able to send 300A of current as that is the max output of my alt. I might gain .1 with another run, but seeing as I never compete and it's strictly daily, it is not worth another $200 in 1/0 to me.
I understand your logic yet disagree with some of the things you've said. If a connection is losing you .1 you did something wrong man. I have quite a few connections on my wire and it reads 15.3 at the alt and 15.3 at the amp terminals. I've got a batt up front and a bank of batts in the back. TONS of connections. Not even a tenth of a volt loss. I can show you on my fluke tonight in a vid if you'd like. I'm not arguing for the sake of arguing. I feel like the people who frequently "help" on this site have adopted a lot of information that is untrue and spread it around. I just want to help correct that. At the end of the day we all want to share the correct info. If your connection is getting hot, there is not enough contact. I think you said that in different words, but that will not happen if it is done properly. I believe 1/0 is rated for 225 for 10 feet. I could be wrong on that. If you're looking for a reason to justify redoing your connections or getting more wire, the eventual repair costs of your amplifier should more than justify it. If there is enough resistance to heat up your connectors it is dropping more than .1.

 
I understand your logic yet disagree with some of the things you've said. If a connection is losing you .1 you did something wrong man. I have quite a few connections on my wire and it reads 15.3 at the alt and 15.3 at the amp terminals. I've got a batt up front and a bank of batts in the back. TONS of connections. Not even a tenth of a volt loss. I can show you on my fluke tonight in a vid if you'd like. I'm not arguing for the sake of arguing. I feel like the people who frequently "help" on this site have adopted a lot of information that is untrue and spread it around. I just want to help correct that. At the end of the day we all want to share the correct info. If your connection is getting hot, there is not enough contact. I think you said that in different words, but that will not happen if it is done properly. I believe 1/0 is rated for 225 for 10 feet. I could be wrong on that. If you're looking for a reason to justify redoing your connections or getting more wire, the eventual repair costs of your amplifier should more than justify it. If there is enough resistance to heat up your connectors it is dropping more than .1.
I was merely stating that the loss in my system was not due to the battery bank. I know my wire is part of the problem, as it got super hot back in the no alternator days. I'm sure it's not 100% carrying capacity as it was new at this point. I'm still only going to run one run of 1/0 per alt when I redo it, not two.

 
I was merely stating that the loss in my system was not due to the battery bank. I know my wire is part of the problem, as it got super hot back in the no alternator days. I'm sure it's not 100% carrying capacity as it was new at this point. I'm still only going to run one run of 1/0 per alt when I redo it, not two.
I wasn't trying to insult you or anything. I don't understand getting HO alts and then wasting their output on series resistance in between but that's just my personal preference.

 
I wasn't trying to insult you or anything. I don't understand getting HO alts and then wasting their output on series resistance in between but that's just my personal preference.
Oh no, I agree. When I actually build the proper electrical for my Warhorse, both alts will have direct runs from the alt to the bank that will be practically on top of the amps. ATM, I'm still piggy-backing an old system that was designed around running 1 1200w amp. I've been slowly doctoring it enough to make sure I have 14.5+ at all times so as not to hurt the new amps.

 
I feel like the people who frequently "help" on this site have adopted a lot of information that is untrue and spread it around.
Creepy-Wonka-Meme-290x189.jpg


You don't say??

OP, you bought a sub that has a 4" coil and suspension so stiff you could stand on it, then put it it the wrong box. Cap isn't the problem, probably wiring to 4 ohms nominal impedence isn't either or the loss of output would be dramatic. That being said those Zenon amps really get down at .5 ohm.

With the suspension they put on that sub you could probably throw that amp at it free-air and not push it to mechanical limits.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

rookanga

10+ year member
Senior VIP Member
Thread starter
rookanga
Joined
Location
flint, MI
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
74
Views
6,563
Last reply date
Last reply from
hispls
IMG_20260516_193114554_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_20260516_192955471_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top