Why is my system weaker after upgrading?

ok itll take the farad out and make sure the wiring is good, but the box is what I have a question about, couldnt I just seal the box up and make it 5.5 cu and work right?
So you're going to go from a FI BL ported to a FI SP4 sealed? Do you want to be even quieter?

You can't just throw a new sub in the same box and expect better results. Sometimes it will work, sometimes it won't. Get a good box built for your new sub and you should see improvements.

 
Adding the cap, will drop the voltage your amp sees. Less voltage=less power. Improper box could be the issue as well.
Not true. Where do you people get this stuff? Look over voltage in a parallel circuit again and find out why you're wrong please.

 
Not true. Where do you people get this stuff? Look over voltage in a parallel circuit again and find out why you're wrong please.
This is another situation that application and wire can play a huge roll over what a text book will say. I have seen several installs where a cap has lowered the voltage a very small amount. In most cases only by around .01-.1 and that was on the maximum end of what I saw. Which in this case is not going to alter the ability of the amplifier drastically. And for the record it is not always the cap that causes the drop. There are several reasons that the voltage lass can be derived from.

The real issue is not the voltage, but the idea that the cap is being used for the incorrect reasons.

 
This is another situation that application and wire can play a huge roll over what a text book will say. I have seen several installs where a cap has lowered the voltage a very small amount. In most cases only by around .01-.1 and that was on the maximum end of what I saw. Which in this case is not going to alter the ability of the amplifier drastically. And for the record it is not always the cap that causes the drop. There are several reasons that the voltage lass can be derived from.
The real issue is not the voltage, but the idea that the cap is being used for the incorrect reasons.
If the amplifier is wired in parallel, and assuming you tested with the amplifier not at full tilt, you could not have noticed any change at all. That would have to be your meter. The capacitor has MUCH less esr than a single battery and can charge up to the vehicle's voltage thus no longer drawing current. A battery cannot. Unless you want to dispute that, let's see how much voltage you're dropping when you add a battery.

 
If the amplifier is wired in parallel, and assuming you tested with the amplifier not at full tilt, you could not have noticed any change at all. That would have to be your meter. The capacitor has MUCH less esr than a single battery and can charge up to the vehicle's voltage thus no longer drawing current. A battery cannot. Unless you want to dispute that, let's see how much voltage you're dropping when you add a battery.
I have 3 batteries 25' down line from my front battery and another 4' from the front battery to the alt. Alt puts out 14.9, front battery is 14.8, back batteries are 14.7. I can nearly guarantee you each of those voltage drops are merely focal points on the connections and have nothing to do with the batteries themselves. The constant complete discharge/recharge of the cap would knock another .1 in addition to the connection loss due to heat. In transfer, energy is always lost to heat. In stasis, not so much.

 
I have 3 batteries 25' down line from my front battery and another 4' from the front battery to the alt. Alt puts out 14.9, front battery is 14.8, back batteries are 14.7. I can nearly guarantee you each of those voltage drops are merely focal points on the connections and have nothing to do with the batteries themselves. The constant complete discharge/recharge of the cap would knock another .1 in addition to the connection loss due to heat. In transfer, energy is always lost to heat. In stasis, not so much.
so true here

 
I have 3 batteries 25' down line from my front battery and another 4' from the front battery to the alt. Alt puts out 14.9, front battery is 14.8, back batteries are 14.7. I can nearly guarantee you each of those voltage drops are merely focal points on the connections and have nothing to do with the batteries themselves. The constant complete discharge/recharge of the cap would knock another .1 in addition to the connection loss due to heat. In transfer, energy is always lost to heat. In stasis, not so much.
So wait, your batteries drop voltage due to the connection, but a capacitor loses due to heat? Did I read that correctly? That must be why there are massive heatsinks on capacitors. Thanks I always wondered.

 
Seriously a capacitor is not constantly charging and discharging. It only discharges when it is the highest source of potential in the circuit whereas batteries are ALWAYS charging because they can never charge up to the circuit voltage. Did you ever think that maybe the wire running from front to back could be your loss since it is wired in series?

 
Seriously a capacitor is not constantly charging and discharging. It only discharges when there it is the highest source of potential in the circuit whereas batteries are ALWAYS charging because they can never charge up to the circuit voltage.
i would say when addidng a cap your adding ressistance thats why some people exp less voltage drop.

 
i would say when addidng a cap your adding ressistance thats why some people exp less voltage drop.
It's wired in parallel with the amplifier. This means that you're not adding resistance. The only way to add resistance is in series.

 
Since I do not feel like explaining it, I will let you inform yourself. GlassWolf's Pages
You don't know why you're wrong. That's why you can't explain it. I've read that a million times and it does not support what you said. Just to explain it before anyone else argues. ESR is how much resistance does this cap have in a series circuit? The way it is explained in this article as well as anywhere else you'll find it is "suppose you have a perfect capacitor with no losses and wired a resistor in series with it." Of course wiring that circuit in parallel would with another circuit would not drop the voltage etc of the other circuit. It would only drop the voltage of anything in series with this circuit.

 
Always remember that voltage always flows from the highest potential to the lowest potential, just like water. Current does not however flow into the alternator even if it is lower than the battery and cap because it has diodes on its output that only let current flow FROM its output. Now whenever any current flows into or out of the cap it must pass thru the ESR of the cap. The resistance is really distributed throughout the cap but it behaves just like it was right on the output terminal as in a series circuit location in the circuit loop does not matter. Now suppose our 20 farad cap is charged to 14.2 volts and we place a load on its output. This load is the same one that we used in lesson 2 to cause 100 amps of current to flow from our unlimited capacity cap. Only now we have our smaller 20 farad cap.

We know that if 100 amps of current flows out of our cap, those 1.7 volts will drop across the ESR of .017 ohm. This will cause the output to drop to 12.5 volts just like it did with the unlimited cap.

 
Think of it this way guys. When you're wiring your voice coils together in parallel the impedence goes down. Because of this your amplifier needs less voltage to make a specific amount of power. When you wire something in series the resistance goes up. Because of this the amplifier must increase the voltage to get that same amount of power out. So since you all already know this, you can apply what you know to this capacitor with voltage and resistance to know you're dead wrong. Capacitors cannot hurt you. They just don't benefit anyone in a 12v circuit.

 
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