Voltage/Amperage Issues((VIDEO))

[MmatsDude 10+ year member]

Video.



Alternator = 180 Execessive Amperage Alternator.

Front Battery = Kinetik HC1800.

Rear Battery = Power Master D3100.

The red gauge volt meter is connected to my rear battery as you can see @ idle is @ 12.7, now as I walk to check my stinger amp/volt/fuse holder display that’s in between the battery and alternator its reading 12.7 volts as well and 0 amps @ idle. I turn on the stereo to play some music and go back to the trunk to check the stinger amp/volt display that’s in between the front and rear battery and it reads 1 amp @ 12.7 volts:crap: then it goes up to 3 amps max //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

Next I go to the front to rev it up a little bit, and watch as the volts and amperage dramatically increase, I have to be revin it all the time for my alternator be sending amperage if I don’t do this my kinetik(front battery) wont send no amps to the rear battery, so I have to be doing this constantly:crap:

I already check the grounds, power wire etc everythings good, i have 7 grounds on my big 3, and running ground wire from battery to battery.

Should I contact Nate so I could send the alternator in so he chould check whats wrong with it?

I will also make another video with my stock alternator on to see whats the results with that one.

Click to read more...

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

There is no problem with the alternator itself. It is a common issue with HO alts. The added windings in the same size case cause the alt to have to spin faster than stock before the electro mag field will start outputting energy.

You'll have to contact Nate and let him know your alternator is spinning too slowly at idle and isn't outputting any power. He'll probably ask you to return it so he can install a smaller pulley on it so it will spin faster.

 

[MmatsDude 10+ year member]

There is no problem with the alternator itself. It is a common issue with HO alts. The added windings in the same size case cause the alt to have to spin faster than stock before the electro mag field will start outputting energy.
You'll have to contact Nate and let him know your alternator is spinning too slowly at idle and isn't outputting any power. He'll probably ask you to return it so he can install a smaller pulley on it so it will spin faster.

But dont you think the voltage is to low @ Idle? I have to be revin it in between 1000 rpm's and 2000 rpms to maintain a steady 13.5 volts, and ofcourse the amperage increases but not for long it goes down in between 20 and 40 amps.

 

[Korn4Life 5,000+ posts]

Your meters are prob wrong... I have the same stinger meter with fuseholder and it is way off

 

[PhatTonyDeMarco 5,000+ posts]

Nathan makes those alternators to operate at 800RPM's and above. I got an alt from him and had this problem, no output at idle, and he had no problem tweaking the alt to suit my low engine idle.

The lack of voltage at idle is because the alternator is not operating at that time, you read a voltage between battery and alt only because that wire is on the battery, giving you the batts voltage only; not an output voltage.

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

You're not understanging. Of course at idle your voltage is going to be what your batteries rest at. They're the only thing that is supplying any electricity to your system. Once you rev the engine your HO alt then starts spinning fast enough for the field to start generating electricity.

You'll always see amperage on a meter going up and down. Amperage always has to go somewhere, therefore it is released 'as-needed' when their is an electrical demand. Otherwise all your electrical equipment would fry.

 

[1rockford1 5,000+ posts]

u did alot of walking back and forth... it seems to be fine bro

 

[MmatsDude 10+ year member]

You're not understanging. Of course at idle your voltage is going to be what your batteries rest at. They're the only thing that is supplying any electricity to your system. Once you rev the engine your HO alt then starts spinning fast enough for the field to start generating electricity.
You'll always see amperage on a meter going up and down. Amperage always has to go somewhere, therefore it is released 'as-needed' when their is an electrical demand. Otherwise all your electrical equipment would fry.

Oh ok I understand now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Maybe its just that the car @ idle is not spinning the alternator fast enough, because when I play it at high volumes with heavy bass notes the alternator doesnt send no amps at all(Idle), and the front battery is not sending no amps at all to the rear battery, only when i start revin it up it the alt sends amps out and the front battery starts sending amps to the rear battery, or maybe my front battery doesnt have no amps left in it? But like the peeps above said it could be that the alternator is not spining fast enough @ idle. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[TSGP]

i like you man...

but learn to use the word any

and 8000 rpm is alternator speed not actual engine RPM

You DO have to rev over 2k or so to break the field on the alt

and how does your meter hook up? Just a ground and hot wire through a little 16 gauge wire?

 

[MmatsDude 10+ year member]

i like you man...
but learn to use the word any

and 8000 rpm is alternator speed not actual engine RPM

You DO have to rev over 2k or so to break the field on the alt

and how does your meter hook up? Just a ground and hot wire through a little 16 gauge wire?

it has a 16 gauge wire that you ground to the chassis.