Tweeters too Bright!

All this will do is muddy the image or sound stage. It will to some extent absorb and dampen the frequencies that's wavelength falls within the thickness of the felt. Which will be the upper high frequencies.
I highly suggest reversing the polarity of one of the tweeters or remounting the tweeters to where they are off axis to your ears.

A carpet dash pad can work wonders as well
Gotcha. Right now they are in my sails. I will probably try the polarity thing first, and grab some felt this weekend. Anything cheap for now to get me by is helpful. I really appreciate the advice.

 
There's one for 80 bucks....less than 100 that's comparable to the 80 prs. JVC and Jeff himself did a review on it. Has everything you need/want in it.
I was just looking at some cheap decks since you mentioned it. Looks like there are some good Pioneer or Kenwoods. I will look into the JVC right now. Thanks for the help. Its crazy how much processing power you can get in a deck now for under $100. I used to run an 80PRS some years back.

 
I deff get what you all are saying. I guess what I would like to find out is what would I do with more processing power? Turn the higher frequencies down more? I probably won't invest much more money into this build, since its my beater car, but will grab a better deck if something pops up.
I appreciate the help.
Actually man its more like even without doing anything your overall sound is vastly improved. your current unit is an outdated unit with a cheap Cr@ppy low quality 16 bit dac. Your sound quality is already really low resolution and uneven response from the start. With a new unit with a quality 24 bit dac, it'll be much better sound off the batt without any tuning. However with the EQ options, you'll be able to really fine tune the specific frequencies that may or may not still offend your ears. You also get the option of running active which ditches the sh*tty passive crossover and actually allow you to use proper crossover points and slopes that work with your vehicle acoustic to get a perfect blend between mid and tweet, the ability to adjust tweeter and mid gain level also helps with that as well. You also get the ability to time align the mid and tweeter individually and actually have a proper sound stage rather than a garbage blob of mess with components.

Give up CDs and this unit will utterly smash your current pioneer. It literally can go head to head to a certain extent with my 80 prs at only 80 dollars.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-LKTwV4PN5lV/p_105KDX340B/JVC-KD-X340BTS.html

 
Actually man its more like even without doing anything your overall sound is vastly improved. your current unit is an outdated unit with a cheap Cr@ppy low quality 16 bit dac. Your sound quality is already really low resolution and uneven response from the start. With a new unit with a quality 24 bit dac, it'll be much better sound off the batt without any tuning. However with the EQ options, you'll be able to really fine tune the specific frequencies that may or may not still offend your ears. You also get the option of running active which ditches the sh*tty passive crossover and actually allow you to use proper crossover points and slopes that work with your vehicle acoustic to get a perfect blend between mid and tweet, the ability to adjust tweeter and mid gain level also helps with that as well. You also get the ability to time align the mid and tweeter individually and actually have a proper sound stage rather than a garbage blob of mess with components.
Give up CDs and this unit will utterly smash your current pioneer. It literally can go head to head to a certain extent with my 80 prs at only 80 dollars.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-LKTwV4PN5lV/p_105KDX340B/JVC-KD-X340BTS.html
Gotcha. Makes sense for sure. Though I do use a USB stick with only 320 MP3. Haha. I get your point. I may just order this today!

 
OK everyone. Sorry, didn't know I would get this much feedback this fast. Yes the Pioneer in my sig is what I have. I believe it is a 7 band EQ (I will have to look again).

I have the tweets set to -3 on the Xovers. And I have the 12khz turned to -2. It is a huge improvement over the tweets being at 0 on the Xover. But still is a bit fatiguing when listening at high volumes.

I remember long ago I had the Infinity Kappa Perfects and had the tweets set at +3, and just thought it was cool to have loud tweets that made my ears bleed. Now I am fully committed to listening to loud music that doesn't hurt my ears. Lol.
Clipping.

Get a better/stronger amp

 
Chances are its not the issue at all if it still sounds bright at lower volumes.
Im working on buying a new deck, and I am going to lower my gains a little, as well as turn off any Xovers on the amp. Just allow the deck to handle it if needed.

 
Chances are its not the issue at all if it still sounds bright at lower volumes.
Clipping sounds metallic and harsh.

Try like was advised cutting around 12k and 4 to 5k. If it still harsh at high volumes but not so much at low volumes you need more power.

I have 400 to my 8" minds and 200 per tweeter. All c said an done after tuning it's just enough powa

 
Clipping sounds metallic and harsh.Try like was advised cutting around 12k and 4 to 5k. If it still harsh at high volumes but not so much at low volumes you need more power.

I have 400 to my 8" minds and 200 per tweeter. All c said an done after tuning it's just enough powa
thats why i said at lower volumes which is completely clean power then its acoustics related issues where only crossover points/slopes and EQ can fix. Usually sibilance is 5khz to 8khz. 12khz and up is rarely an issue from all the systems I've tuned.

 
thats why i said at lower volumes which is completely clean power then its acoustics related issues where only crossover points/slopes and EQ can fix. Usually sibilance is 5khz to 8khz. 12khz and up is rarely an issue from all the systems I've tuned.
Sibance isn't just a peak. It's usually a combination of peaks and dips between 6khz and 16khz. Alot of times its very difficult to tame it and still get outstanding definition and air

 
Sibance isn't just a peak. It's usually a combination of peaks and dips between 6khz and 16khz. Alot of times its very difficult to tame it and still get outstanding definition and air
quite easy with proper processing. No processing, you fked. But yeah his issue, I know because i've had those UB lines of pioneer, they had a very common sibilance issue that went away after swapping to an 80 prs. with nothing else done.

 
quite easy with proper processing. No processing, you fked. But yeah his issue, I know because i've had those UB lines of pioneer, they had a very common sibilance issue that went away after swapping to an 80 prs. with nothing else done.
Should be ordering the deck when my tax money comes in. I dont even know if I am going to keep the car. However, I did lower the gains some, and turned off the Xover on the amp. Sounds much better. Still a bit harsh, so I'd be very excited to hear the new deck on them. I would still consider bridging the amp for the front speakers. But with only being rated at 60 RMS, idk if they will like that much more power... Of course I could gain down however.

 
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