truck subwoofer build

[LSXGTO]

(New to audio stuff)
Currently have:
Blaupunkt 3000w mono
Kicker CompC 44TCWC104 (preinstalled 10" in a 0.66cf box, ported)
~$240 all in and I can feel good bass, just wanting to go bigger
My buddy has this same sub and same amp just double the size of a ported box in a SUV and his rattles hairs on your head.
I could build a 1.26cf enclosure for this sub, but this amp overpowers this 300rms sub at about 75% gain knob.


-I calculated that I have 1.26cf total airspace under my rear seats that I can use (Truck is a crew cab 2010 silverado)
-I would like to keep my cheap and reliable amp that does about 500rms @ 2ohm (which for $90 I couldn't pass up)
-I would sorta like having even bass (two subs instead of my one on the driver side floor) but I'm open to suggestions

Am I better off getting two 8" subs of 250rms power that add up to around 1.2cf airspace and 500rms?
or would I benefit more from say a 500rms 10" or maybe 12" that has around a 1.2cf airspace?
I would like to be ported for significant volume increase, but I know my workspace is very limited and maybe an enclosed route would be better?

I already got a buddy lined up to buy this sub+box and amp from me so I can start from scratch if need be. I would like to stay around the same budget of ~$300. (if possible)

Without spending a fortune, what can I do with this under-seat space in my truck to maximize my potential?

Thanks for any advice

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[SlugButter]

I would do a couple of decent sealed 8s. I have a Dayton ultimax 8 that is excellent sealed with good xmax. You have about the right space for 2 of those, or a different 8 that does well sealed. They are a tad pricey though. A 10 ported would also work. You have a decent amount of airspace to do a ported 10. It would need to be a fairly efficient 10 that would want around 1 cubic foot ported, leaving room for port and sub displacement. Audio legions 10 for 70$ would work nicely, but it does want 1.2-1.5 cubes ported.

 

[LSXGTO]

Been looking into two VD-10 Skar's and getting a supporting 1200w rms amp. Recommended ported cubes are 1.25 ea. I only have enough air for one, but I see that a lot of truck guys run this setup with very similar airspace and say they get good performance? Am i shooting myself in the foot with this route? Do I benefit more from two 8" subs of lower power that work better in a ~1.26 cubed space for a ported setup?

 

[SlugButter]

Been looking into two VD-10 Skar's and getting a supporting 1200w rms amp. Recommended ported cubes are 1.25 ea. I only have enough air for one, but I see that a lot of truck guys run this setup with very similar airspace and say they get good performance? Am i shooting myself in the foot with this route? Do I benefit more from two 8" subs of lower power that work better in a ~1.26 cubed space for a ported setup?

I would personally do 2 8s, but it’s also more expensive to buy 2 8s. I’m not bashing on Skar too much because they are inexpensive and probably worth the money, but their 10s are a tad inefficient in a small ported box. It will work, but it’s leaving a lot of bass on the table being in a smaller box. Skar 10s do well if you can get them into 1.5 cubes. There are actually some 10s that are efficient enough to port in .5 cubes. The Dayton HO 10 does really good in .65 cubes tuned to 30-34 hz, which after port and sub displacement gives a total box size of around 1 cube. A sub in 1.25 cubes actually needs more overall than 1.25. After port and sub displacement you’d be closer to 1.5 or more.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

2-8's or 4-6-½'s in a ported box under your seat. Don't sleep on multiple 6-½'s. You'd be surprised.

 

[LSXGTO]

I would personally do 2 8s, but it’s also more expensive to buy 2 8s. I’m not bashing on Skar too much because they are inexpensive and probably worth the money, but their 10s are a tad inefficient in a small ported box. It will work, but it’s leaving a lot of bass on the table being in a smaller box. Skar 10s do well if you can get them into 1.5 cubes. There are actually some 10s that are efficient enough to port in .5 cubes. The Dayton HO 10 does really good in .65 cubes tuned to 30-34 hz, which after port and sub displacement gives a total box size of around 1 cube. A sub in 1.25 cubes actually needs more overall than 1.25. After port and sub displacement you’d be closer to 1.5 or more.

Even with the rated ported cubes on a HO 10 is 1.5cf? It handles that well at .65?

 

[SlugButter]

Even with the rated ported cubes on a HO 10 is 1.5cf? It handles that well at .65?

I like it in bigger than .65. If you run the TS parameters through software, it works in a .65 cube enclosure fairly well, but I’d really only do that if it was absolutely necessary. I would still try to recommend a single 8 ported or 2 8s sealed, or even 2 10s sealed for your space., but if someone absolutely insisted on a 10 in a small space ported, I’d recommend the HO 10. If you did a 4 inch aero ported box, you could probably squeeze a full cube ported and still stay under your 1.25 cubes total space.

 

[SlugButter]

If it were my vehicle and I was going with a Dayton audio product, your space is nearly perfect for 2 Dayton audio 10 inch ultimax subs in a sealed enclosure, but that would mean a bigger amplifier, and over your budget for the subs. Small spaces make things more difficult, and ultimately more expensive to get loud and low. It’s a fun challenge. I’m ordering a few different 6.5s this summer to do some testing. I bought a tang band 6.5 inch subwoofer for a low powered project, and this thing digs down deep.

 

[SlugButter]

American bass makes an 8 that’s also quite impressive ported. You have good space for a nice large power 8, and they play loud and low.

 

[LSXGTO]

If it were my vehicle and I was going with a Dayton audio product, your space is nearly perfect for 2 Dayton audio 10 inch ultimax subs in a sealed enclosure, but that would mean a bigger amplifier, and over your budget for the subs. Small spaces make things more difficult, and ultimately more expensive to get loud and low. It’s a fun challenge. I’m ordering a few different 6.5s this summer to do some testing. I bought a tang band 6.5 inch subwoofer for a low powered project, and this thing digs down deep.

I appreciate the help and understanding in the difficulty of small enclosure, big bass operations. Lots of people seem to prefer to belittle me on my unknown knowledge on the topic, but I'm just trying to learn and not build something that's crap.
Heres what I have been looking at and I value your input:
-Dayton LS10-44 due to its size to fit in my setup (but I don't know the recommended enclosure sizes) ?
-Alpine S-W8D4 due to its mount depth, price, and that its rated for .7-.8 ported volumes ?
-RF P3SD4, still holds 300rms and would fit but requires slightly larger 1cf ported box but is a 10" over the alpine's 8" ?
-JL 10W3-D4, probably out of my budget, don't think id spend this much on a single sub, but the specs seem great at .6cf ported, just wanted to know opinions on this sub

Any of those a decent choice for my limited area?

thanks

 

[Firewalker]

Pair of 8" SSA would do the trick easily. I can tell you right now RF P3 subwoofers require big ported box. Don't discount 8' subwoofers they can get down when done in the right enclosure and amplifier. I would look at those SSA 8" those get rave reviews.