Thick MDF and Brace Pieces??

I've glued and screwed 1/2" mdf together before and works fine. Since buying 1" mdf is more expensive, buying a 4x8 sheet then cut 2x of everything needed for a small project I did. Turned out fine.

 
Glad everyone is responding and being judgmental. I am a highschooler running on a bit of a budget so yes, I try to save money when I can. That was only for one box and I've since been using .75 but have continued to use dowels. I know the issues with cheap companies and try not to skimp on power. I'm running an  American Bass HD15D2 and a Taramps MD5000.1 on 1/0 Gauge wiring (This time in a 1 inch box.) and I've gotta say, guys. It didn't make hardly any difference than when my CT Sounds was in a [supposedly shitty] .5 inch box on a cerwin vega amp. So I'm not real sure all this making a joke out of my first design actually applies. 

Why would it sound practically the same with this (Heavenly) thick wood and more solid, heavier box as it did with my first design?

 
I thought I knew everything when I was in high school too.  So maybe your box sounds far from heavenly to the veterans or even the people who use 3/4 wood.  

I’ve used sanded pine for all my big builds. It’s cheap, stronger, lighter,  and not messy/toxic like MDF. 

 
I see all these youtube videos of nice subwoofer boxes and enclosures and they they always use either .75" or higher MDF and these large, detailed brace pieces in their boxes for structure. When I made my first box for my CT Sounds Tropo 18", I used .5" MDF and rather than large, waste-of-wood brace pieces, I used Oak wooden dowels to span the divide and create integrity. The box sounded heavenly.

What advantage does spending extra money on thicker wood and more of it over using cheaper (Somewhat-thick) MDF and cheap wooden dowels? Wouldn't the dowels allow for easier air passage with its pre-cut circular shape? Why use More expensive material rather than save some $$$ and still have amazing sound.
as with most things in life one reaches an area where the return on investment is minimal. there also so happens to be a minimum threshold, and that's probably minimum 3/4 inch mdf with bracing if the largest panel of the enclosure isnt huge. 

You can brace the enclosure and get away with less layers and thickness, or you can go overkill on the layers. Your comments about 1/2 inch mdf being fine are simply uneducated like most of your other comments. 

you need to go sell your car audio and take some physics courses at your local college

I despide SMD forums but this is good physics based information:

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/206664-implementing-bracing/

Someone CAD modeled various bracing based on this but i cant find the pictures

 
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he was also comparing an 18 inch enclosure to a 15 inch enclosure with totally different subs and amps. Idk how he arrived to the conclusion of there's no difference between .75 and .5 when its completely different variables in his so called personal experience/experiment observations.  The only way his claim can be true is if he built enclosures of identical port and airspace specs with .75 and .5 with same bracing etc and actually measure on the meter/RTA. 

 
Glad everyone is responding and being judgmental. I am a highschooler running on a bit of a budget so yes, I try to save money when I can. That was only for one box and I've since been using .75 but have continued to use dowels. I know the issues with cheap companies and try not to skimp on power. I'm running an  American Bass HD15D2 and a Taramps MD5000.1 on 1/0 Gauge wiring (This time in a 1 inch box.) and I've gotta say, guys. It didn't make hardly any difference than when my CT Sounds was in a [supposedly shitty] .5 inch box on a cerwin vega amp. So I'm not real sure all this making a joke out of my first design actually applies. 

Why would it sound practically the same with this (Heavenly) thick wood and more solid, heavier box as it did with my first design?
How big is your box now with that American Bass sub? Who designed the enclosure? You want answers, we want more info. The more info we have the better. Even a pic or 2 is a plus.

 
So you ask why thicker wood is better then thinner when people tell you, you respond with well iv bull both and it made no difference.  Sounds like you think you already Know the answer(but not really).

And some how two different subs with different amps sounded the same you say?

Seems like your full of ****.

 
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I wanna see pics of this so called "design" that you supposily did. What program did you use to create the weak 1/2" thick enclosure for that 18?

 
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