The do's and dont''s of my first wall....it seems like something isn't right....

Oh well,are you getting it fixed ? We all make mistakes just learn and move on. I had the the positive (three 0 gauge adapter) out of my amp and it slipped out of my hand and hit grounded amp case but I got lucky cuz the anodized coating does not conduct electricity very well so it only sparked.

 
Yes I'm getting it fixed for sure! I'm going to send it off tomorrow first thing when they open so it'll ship tomorrow. **** chaseinbass I wish my luck was as good as yours lol. I've never had that happen before with the positive wire on the sub input though. It's really weird. Have any of you ever had the positive wire on the sub input shock you when you touched it? Cause that happened when I first got the amp. I thought it was really odd.

 
Well god dam nit gonna hispls why couldn't you show me that about a month ago? Lmao. How much do you think it's going to cost to get it repaired? I've never had an amp repaired before. I'm going to guess right around $150

 
I've been following this soap opera since it started... wow! Your braver than I am even tryin' a wall... it's starting to look somewhat solid... but those gaps! OSB? I framed for 20 years plus and I would never use that... even if it's free... How it sounds will prove me wrong I'm sure... keep on it and you'll be slammin' I'm sure... bummer about the amp man... I've had problems due to vibration... Once I really cooked an amp... I switched power and ground on a RF Punch 200IX dsm, I used black wire for power and ground... Cost me $130 for a $100 dollar job!

 
Well god dam nit gonna hispls why couldn't you show me that about a month ago? Lmao. How much do you think it's going to cost to get it repaired? I've never had an amp repaired before. I'm going to guess right around $150

IMO there is no need to scope unless you're running a test bench. If you're building for you meter you set gains with the meter if you're building for music you set gains with your ears. Keep it simple.

I doubt you're getting out of this for under 300$ but that's based on my experience blowing up korean amps. Competent repair shops charge about 70$ per hour bench time plus parts. Do let us know how you make out, there are a lot of those amps out there and people will be interested on the cost of breaking one.

I've been following this soap opera since it started... wow! Your braver than I am even tryin' a wall... it's starting to look somewhat solid... but those gaps! OSB? I framed for 20 years plus and I would never use that... even if it's free... How it sounds will prove me wrong I'm sure... keep on it and you'll be slammin' I'm sure... bummer about the amp man... I've had problems due to vibration... Once I really cooked an amp... I switched power and ground on a RF Punch 200IX dsm, I used black wire for power and ground... Cost me $130 for a $100 dollar job!
OSB is fine for box building but a PITA to work with is all. I've used it with good results and a guy around here has a 157 (daily driver 2 15's) Integra that's built with it. Poor choice if you're not comfortable with woodworking and patient.

I linked to a thread on SMD way back in this thread where a guy tests rigidity of various materials... Cliffs: OSB is the most rigid.

 
[quote name='ChaseinBass']Ya I think @gotgixers warned me Taramps repair is around $250.00 when I decided to wire at .5 incase things go south[/QUOTE]

That's cheap. You're up around 500$ to repair a Korean 8K.
 
Ya been there lol never again

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---------- Post added at 07:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:42 AM ----------

 

Taramps just sounds better and better lol

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There's no more gaps lol. It's all sealed up now, I'll take a picture of what I have done so far. It looks completely different than the last pictures I posted. Well f uck $250 Is kinda steep. I'm hoping it's not that much at the place I found. Someone was saying that they got there taramps fixed for around $100.....So we will see...I'm about to call the guy here in a minute and hopefully he'll be able to give me a price quote once I explain the problem to him. And I was using my oscope because that's the best way to set your gains. And I wanted to make sure I set them right the first time so I didn't fry the coils. Because I don't like adjusting by ear. I can do it. But I figured I might as well do it right since I have the tools on hand you know? I'm actually kinda glad I don't have a korean lol. Because $500 is rediculous for a repair.

 
Ok so i messaged him through facebook instead lol. I'm waiting for him to message me back. And somehow I managed to fry one of the coils on one sub...the other two are fine though.

 
There's no more gaps lol.
Nice. Solid AND airtight. While your amp is out for repair you should take some more time to make doubly sure it's bomb-proof in there.

And I wanted to make sure I set them right the first time so I didn't fry the coils.
Turn it up until distortion is audible at one click on the head unit past your "max". For example my Kenwood is 0-35 and with most modern recordings I never go past 30, so on a tone or really loud recording it would distort just audibly at 31. I still have a few extra clicks if I'm playing older/quieter tracks.

If your nose isn't broken you should have a fair bit of warning when the subs are getting angry and want to be turned down until things cool off. If your box is tight and your port functions it's unlikely that you will break 3 18's mechanically with your power... not saying you can't but you'd have to be trying or just super careless.

 
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