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ferguson621
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- Thread Starter
- #676
I know right, that's all I could say.....I just stood there speechless for a few minutes....
Well god dam nit gonna hispls why couldn't you show me that about a month ago? Lmao. How much do you think it's going to cost to get it repaired? I've never had an amp repaired before. I'm going to guess right around $150
OSB is fine for box building but a PITA to work with is all. I've used it with good results and a guy around here has a 157 (daily driver 2 15's) Integra that's built with it. Poor choice if you're not comfortable with woodworking and patient.I've been following this soap opera since it started... wow! Your braver than I am even tryin' a wall... it's starting to look somewhat solid... but those gaps! OSB? I framed for 20 years plus and I would never use that... even if it's free... How it sounds will prove me wrong I'm sure... keep on it and you'll be slammin' I'm sure... bummer about the amp man... I've had problems due to vibration... Once I really cooked an amp... I switched power and ground on a RF Punch 200IX dsm, I used black wire for power and ground... Cost me $130 for a $100 dollar job!
Nice. Solid AND airtight. While your amp is out for repair you should take some more time to make doubly sure it's bomb-proof in there.There's no more gaps lol.
Turn it up until distortion is audible at one click on the head unit past your "max". For example my Kenwood is 0-35 and with most modern recordings I never go past 30, so on a tone or really loud recording it would distort just audibly at 31. I still have a few extra clicks if I'm playing older/quieter tracks.And I wanted to make sure I set them right the first time so I didn't fry the coils.